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Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?


Postby HighlandSC » Sat Oct 24, 2009 11:45 am

The walk description makes out it's a tricky scramble, requires expertise, etc.

2 randoms at my work, non-serious walkers, have both done the true summit and say it's easy, and one did it only using his legs and 1 hand. Both agree it's exposed which is fine.

So what's the real deal? I presume you go up to the "usual" summit then make your way across to the real one?

Would be grateful if anyone has some pics of the scrambly bit.

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Re: Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Postby Paul Webster » Sat Oct 24, 2009 1:22 pm

I think it is quite a bit harder than the Cobbler summit scramble to reach what is the real summit given that you have to get back down as well (and definitely harder than any particular move on the Aonach Eagach), though no doubt there are people who find it easy :D It is considered to be grade 3. In ascent the tower is climbed direct and there allegedly a gully option which it is possible to descend <<edit - this is the leaning slab in Foggie's pic>>

I haven't got a pic - I'm sure I've seen a really good one of it on Flickr but Flickr seems to be down at the mo.
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Re: Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Postby Paul Webster » Sat Oct 24, 2009 1:42 pm

Here you go - I reckon this makes it look a little easier than it is...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicklandells/3729170297/

You can see the same pitch on the left in this shot...

http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/9504

Fancy it with only one hand? :shock:
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Re: Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Postby James_McG » Sat Oct 24, 2009 2:09 pm

Paul Webster wrote:Here you go - I reckon this makes it look a little easier than it is...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicklandells/3729170297/

You can see the same pitch on the left in this shot...

http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/9504

Fancy it with only one hand? :shock:


Felt my stomach going looking at the flickr link lol, dont know if I'll ever get my head round something like that. I'll maybe just watch others while chewing on my sandwiches :)
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Re: Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Postby foggieclimber » Sat Oct 24, 2009 8:30 pm

IMO the final tower is definitely harder than the Cobbler.
There is a serious drop either side of the ridge. If you fell while doing the tower you will potentially fall a long way down.

Another pic:
Image
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Re: Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Postby Paul Webster » Sat Oct 24, 2009 8:58 pm

Great photo foggie. Climbing it using only one hand seems very extreme :shock: but I did once read that someone did the whole Aonach Eagach with both hands in his pockets for a £5 bet wagered in the Clachaig. :shock: :shock: I can't really fathom such things, but my judgement is that Stac Pollaidh is the hardest main summit on the UK mainland.
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Re: Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Postby Glenrothes » Sat Oct 24, 2009 9:08 pm

Just to get some perspective, how high is the 'Leaning Slab'

The rock above seems reasonable straightfoward but pictures are not always what they seem..........
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Re: Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Postby foggieclimber » Sat Oct 24, 2009 9:47 pm

Agree, hardest summit in mainland.
Rocks are easier higher up. Crux is getting started.
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Re: Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Postby HighlandSC » Sun Oct 25, 2009 11:43 am

Cheers guys. Some excellent info and pics :D

I took a quick drive by and it was grim up there yesterday. Cloud zooming past at some speed. If only you could feel the wind through pics!

Image

Image

It's on the to do list for a nice sunny day! :lol:
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Re: Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Postby kevsbald » Sun Oct 25, 2009 2:25 pm

Brilliant - can't wait to do this.
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Re: Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Postby HighlandSC » Mon Oct 26, 2009 2:37 pm

Just been reading some reports and the walk description of this again and am curious to know the justification for including this in the "Summits climbed" section of the walk - when the description states it avoids the summit?

Am I being picky? But surely a summit is a summit and you can't summit a mountain without going to the summit, right?


HighlandSC wrote:2 randoms at my work, non-serious walkers, have both done the true summit and say it's easy, and one did it only using his legs and 1 hand. Both agree it's exposed which is fine.

It turns out 1 of them (haven't seen the other yet) didn't do the real one! After showing some pics that was immediately clear.... :lol:
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Re: Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Postby HighlandSC » Mon Oct 26, 2009 2:46 pm

Apart from the pics posted here - which seem to be the final scramble to the West summit - is there anything of concern going along the ridge from East to West?

By the way this recent report: Another superb Autumn day in the Highlands relates to Stac Pollaidh. Good pics of the whole ridge and one of looking West from the East summit.
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Re: Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Postby rspat » Mon Oct 26, 2009 3:08 pm

Paul Webster wrote:there allegedly a gully option which it is possible to descend <<edit - this is the leaning slab in Foggie's pic>>


The gully option is really fairly easy, though the gully is quite steep and loose - you do not have to actually ascend the leaning slab in the photo, the route is through the gap between the slab and the mountain proper to connect with a short gully on the other side. On return, the route feels safer due to the slab acting as a chockstone which floors the gully you're descending.

It should be said, this route probably does have some objective risk from rockfall as Stac Pollaidh does have a lot of loose and eroding rock.
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Re: Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Postby Paul Webster » Mon Oct 26, 2009 3:39 pm

HighlandSC wrote:Just been reading some reports and the walk description of this again and am curious to know the justification for including this in the "Summits climbed" section of the walk - when the description states it avoids the summit?

Am I being picky? But surely a summit is a summit and you can't summit a mountain without going to the summit, right?


I wanted to put the walk on as Grade 3 as the walk isn't so long and is done by lots of inexperienced hillwalkers. This meant the description had to advise giving the summit a miss! But then if I put it on as Grade 5 alot less people would choose it.

On the other hand, it seemed a bit strange to have a route on Stac Pollaidh and a page for the Graham Stac Pollaidh and not to link them together. It's up to users to decide whether they want to consider it bagged or not - you can always unclick the Graham. It's the same situation with the Cobbler really - probably the majority of ascents recorded don't include the actual summit, but many of the walkers will say they've done the Cobbler. Hope that makes some sort of sense :D

HighlandSC wrote:Apart from the pics posted here - which seem to be the final scramble to the West summit - is there anything of concern going along the ridge from East to West?


There's plenty of scrambling, hard or easy as you like, the ridge is very complex with many possible routes but not any impassable obstacles that come close to the difficulty of the final tower.

rspat wrote:The gully option is really fairly easy, though the gully is quite steep and loose - you do not have to actually ascend the leaning slab in the photo, the route is through the gap between the slab and the mountain proper to connect with a short gully on the other side. On return, the route feels safer due to the slab acting as a chockstone which floors the gully you're descending.


I had heard of such a route, but when I was there I had a good look around for different ways around the tower and I didn't see it :( I decided the best way was directly up the tower :shock:
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Re: Stac Pollaidh - how hard is the scramble to true summit?

Postby canisp » Mon Oct 26, 2009 3:47 pm

HighlandSC wrote:Am I being picky? But surely a summit is a summit and you can't summit a mountain without going to the summit, right?

I’d agree with you 100%…… but its all in the wording, people never say i’m summiting the Munro’s/Corbetts or Grahams or reaching the top of the Munro’s, they usually say i’m doing, bagging or climbing the Munro’s and these words are open to interpretation. I’d agree you can’t summit a hill without reaching the summit but i don’t believe you have to reach/touch the summit to claim a mountain as done/bagged or climbed, whether or not you tick the hill as done in your logger is down to your own conscience and any rules of the site.
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