Using slings to protect a solo scramble
by gman » Tue Jan 12, 2016 6:41 pm
I've heard of people using slings on scrambles before, just wondering if anyone has tried this. Obviously you wouldn't want to take a fall onto one as it isn't dynamic but I can see it being useful for a short move if placed securely. Any tips - size, with/without harness etc? Cheers.
by prog99 » Tue Jan 12, 2016 7:13 pm
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by dav2930 » Tue Jan 12, 2016 7:36 pm
Width of slings - with modern materials like Dyneema, the thinner the better, since they'll slot into thin cracks behind bollards etc. and hook onto smaller spikes.
I would have thought the real value of harness and slings etc. when soloing a big climb like DB Direct would be if you also carried a rope on your back just in case you bottle out and need to escape by abseil.
Seems to me that the meagre 'protection' placed by the climber in the vid was largely psychological!
by jacob » Tue Jan 12, 2016 8:14 pm
by Kevin29035 » Tue Jan 12, 2016 8:33 pm
"a 85 kg mass free-falling just 60 cm on to a 60 cm Dyneema sling (fall-factor 1), with an overhand knot in it, generated enough force to break the sling."
That sling does look a bit sketchy though!
by Kevin29035 » Tue Jan 12, 2016 8:46 pm
I've 'rope-soloed' once or twice, essentially starting with the end of the rope tied into a bomb proof multi-directional anchor, then feeding the rope by me with a clove hitch, plugging gear on the way to kepe the potential fall pendulum small. Works best imo on ground within your limit but in atrocious conditions that would otherwise preclude going solo.
The issue with this set up is you either must return the way your climbed (which is fine on pinnacles), or construct an anchor once at the top, abseil down, strip the gear and jug/jumar back to your top anchor. Time consuming and almost really no better than soloing happily or having a partner to hand.
by gman » Tue Jan 12, 2016 9:58 pm
Placing gear kind of defeats the purpose/freedom/speed of scrambling but I think this could be a quick solution for a single move, look round the corner for an better route etc. If only to stop my legs shaking while I have a breather!
by Mal Grey » Tue Jan 12, 2016 10:16 pm
That referenced sling placement on the Douglas Boulder was exceedingly "Psychological" though!
by matt_outandabout » Thu Jan 14, 2016 9:54 pm
I would say as a climbing instructor I have many a time hung from a sling, or even moved around on the end of one clipped into ropes where the chance of falling is minimal, but penalty for a slip is high.
If you understand the risks (of fall and non-dynamic slings) then you make a risk judgement.
It's isn't perfect, but as a belt and braces or psychological support, it has its place.
by matt_outandabout » Thu Jan 14, 2016 10:03 pm
by Meatball » Tue Jan 19, 2016 11:37 am
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