Aladdin's Couloir

[ally63]

My annual trip to the Cairngorms is upon me and, as a departure from my usual munro bagging outings, I'm tempted by Aladdin's Couloir. Whilst it may be on the easier end of the winter climbing grades I've no desire to be availing of Mountain Rescue....or worse! In short, and obviously assuming the weather is favourable, should I consider it on my own and without a rope?
Any and all advice gratefully accepted

[jmarkb]

If you are on your own there isn't much point taking a rope!

In good conditions it is a straightforward snow climb with no cornice difficulties. In lean conditions there can be an icy pitch at the dogleg. Beware of rock/icefall from parties above you: wear a helmet and if possible do it when it's not full of people. And (obviously) be aware of potential avalanche risk: the orientation of the upper part means it can get loaded in westerly winds.

If the place is mobbed, there is a useful Grade I line left of Aladdin's Couloir, about 2/3 of the way towards Jacob's Ladder, keeping right of the lower rocks and left of the upper ones. This isn't in any guidebook any is therefore rarely climbed!

[ally63]

Thanks for that jmarkb. I will have the appropriate climbing aids and safety gear but only attempt it if conditions suit. I've been following the weather and avalanche reports over the past couple of weeks. I seem to remember Heather Morning (Glenmore Lodge) telling me during a winter skills course a few years back, that she'd climbed one of the gullies with her dog (Meg, I think). Not sure if it was Aladdin's. Anyway, I appreciate the feedback

[jmarkb]

Thanks for that jmarkb. I will have the appropriate climbing aids and safety gear but only attempt it if conditions suit. I've been following the weather and avalanche reports over the past couple of weeks. I seem to remember Heather Morning (Glenmore Lodge) telling me during a winter skills course a few years back, that she'd climbed one of the gullies with her dog (Meg, I think). Not sure if it was Aladdin's. Anyway, I appreciate the feedback

You are welcome!

I can imagine that if there's plenty of snow and a big line of bucket steps up it then canine ascents would be feasible!

[Scottk]

Watch out for anyone skiing down it!
Jmarkb, the line to the left, is this referred to as the M1 which is used for practicing ice axe arrest and belays?

[jmarkb]

Jmarkb, the line to the left, is this referred to as the M1 which is used for practicing ice axe arrest and belays?

I’m not sure but I don’t think so: the places I’ve usually seen instructed groups are to the left of the Mess of Pottage and away right below the Goat Track. There is also “Point Five” gully to the right of the Goat Track”, an easy Grade I, or a bit harder if you exit up the left wall.

[gaffr]

Hello,
I thought that the Couloir would have been an early brush with the winter snow but looking at the route book it does appear to be Crowberry Gully on BEM that was the first struggle with a winter sunless slot. Armed with a wooden shafted axe and newly purchased Grivel crampons a real fight ensued. Scrabbling and scraping our way upwards to finish in the dark ....torches helping us to finding the top of of the descent into Tulaich Coire. Kind-of put me off gullies for a bit...very strenuous.
A bit later in the winter with a big snow-cover in the Coire we step kicked our way up the Couloir. The notes say a full run-out at the bottom and with big winds at the top that tried to push us back down into the Coire and coming across skiers for the first time fifty five years ago. Have used, in the right conditions, used the Couloir and the Goat track a few times for descent into the Coire....lets you get quickly out of the usual wind off the plateau.
In winter you have to make decisions on the day when each day usually presents different conditions.
In another Post the area of Dorsal Arete gives you a good day out with the Arete and wide Gully for descent and another slighter steeper gully right of the Arete.
Converting our rope, at that time, from feet into metres 120 feet of hawser laid type into would be around 40 mertres perhaps.

[Cairngormwanderer]

Thanks for that jmarkb. I will have the appropriate climbing aids and safety gear but only attempt it if conditions suit. I've been following the weather and avalanche reports over the past couple of weeks. I seem to remember Heather Morning (Glenmore Lodge) telling me during a winter skills course a few years back, that she'd climbed one of the gullies with her dog (Meg, I think). Not sure if it was Aladdin's. Anyway, I appreciate the feedback

It's Millie. Not Meg. With such a poor grasp of mountaineering basics you should maybe stay at home.
The crucial factor, as mentioned above, will be the avalanche forecast, which you should pay very close attention to, and not just on the day of your trip.
Also, you say you will have all the appropriate climbing aids and safety gear... It's true that it's not one of the harder grade 1s, and is certainly soloed often enough, but if it's a first venture into winter climbing a more knowledgeable companion and that rope might be well advised. Conditions can be so variable, and while good neve can make it a joy, deep powder or unconsolidated smush can make it a horror-fest. I also climbed the nearby Crotched Gully once when the entire corrie was covered in a glassy layer of water ice over smush - highly dangerous conditions and six rescues from the corrie that day. It's one of the reasons a more experienced companion is advised: you don't know what you don't know.

[jmarkb]

It's Millie. Not Meg. With such a poor grasp of mountaineering basics you should maybe stay at home.

Harsh but fair

[ally63]

do not fear, I have plenty of winter climbing experience including grade III in Torridon but that was with a guide. I've done plenty of solo stuff in the summer but nothing in winter. Just fancied a crack at something relatively simple if conditions were right. I have all of the SAIS reports from the past two weeks printed off. Having learned the hard way I'm now wise enough not to put myself or others in danger. The great thing about the Cairngorms is there is plenty to do in all weather, even if that's a walk into Loch Eanaich and back. Being from across the Irish Sea I value the opinion of you locals ......and yes, Millie Thanks again folks

[prog99]

Given the volume of snow that’s fell and is forecast to fall this week i’d not be too fussed about the past 2 weeks of SAIS forecasts really. Will be interesting to see if we get the first red segment of the year this week.

[ally63]

As luck would have it, on stopping in the Mountain Café enroute to our accommodation, the very same Heather Morning (see earlier post) was in the shop and gave some very useful advice about current conditions. As of a few days ago the gullies in Coire an t'sneachda were all plastered in the white stuff but a couple of snow free days might consolidate things. A good alternative would be the opposite, south facing side of Stag Rocks and in particular, Cascade gully. Can't get much more up to date than that

[Caberfeidh]

If you are on your own there isn't much point taking a rope! !

The rope is used for abseiling off if necessary.

[jmarkb]

If you are on your own there isn't much point taking a rope! !

The rope is used for abseiling off if necessary.

In general, yes, sure. On the route in question it’s not a great option, as the the rock belays are well spaced and quite suspect: downclimbing would almost certainly be safer.

[ally63]

Had a quick scout this morning and it answered any questions about whether to do it or not. Chock full of snow and no-one anywhere near it. The top section especially looked dodgy! Can't see the snow consolidating by tomorrow. By comparison Jacob's Ladder had several groups tackling it or at least the wall to the left of it. Make use of the good forecast and bag a Munro or two. Appreciate all of the feedback anyway