May/June trip to the Highlands - some inquiries

[Sjiep]

Hello good folks,

I'll be visiting your country again this year. It'll be my third visit. Besides consumption of methylated spirits I'll try to cover some distance with a backpack on my shoulders. After having done Ullapool to Cape Wrath in June 2016 and Knoydart to Achnashellach + a bit of the Cairngorms last June, I'll have to find myself a new area to frolick around in.

I'll have two weeks in total for the whole ordeal, and I'm thinking of finally heading over to Skye this time. My (rough) travel plan is something like this:
May-27: Glasgow or Inverness
May-28: Portree
May-29 to Jun-3: Skye Trail
Jun-4: Broadford to Kinlochewe by public transport
Jun-5: Kinlochewe to Shenavall
Jun-6: Fisherfield 6 loop (psyched about this one)
Jun-7: Shenavall to Inverlael
Jun-8: Inverlael – Bein Dearg, the Four Munros circuit
Jun-9: back to civilization

My main worry about Skye is that it's too crowded. I hear the stories/rumours at least...
I loved the sense of wildness and loneliness in Assynt, Ross and Knoydart on my previous trips. How different (or not) will this be on Skye? Have in late May/early June the tourists already arrived in full-flight? Is the Skye Trail as popular as the WHW? Would you say the Trail is a great way to hike through Skye?


Also, which city has a better connection to Portree via public transport? Glasgow or Inverness? Still got to figure out my way into the country.


Cheers

[prog99]

Hi there, don't worry too much about Skye, the crowds dwindle away from the hot spots that you can't waddle from your car to.

[Mal Grey]

Yeah, Skye will be fine, apart from the odd hotspot. And you're after "half term" but before the summer season really starts.

Your schedule looks fabulous. Though I might be adding a rest day after Fisherfield myself!! (or just building in a spare day in case of rubbish weather, to allow you to enjoy the good days on the best bits).

I'd also be tempted to consider whether, rather than walking straight through to Shenavall from Kinlochewe, you could do a high camp somewhere above Lochan Fada, and split the "6" into a couple of days after that to reduce the overall distance. It might add flexibility to our schedule too.

Do check the Broadford to Kinlochewe public transport. It should be easily doable in a short day, as long as buses and train timing actually coincides!

[Scottk]

And try Buckfast rather than drinking methylated spirits.
I think there are more buses from Glasgow to Skye but there should still be 2 a day from Inverness. Also the Fort William to Mallaig train is great (Hogwarts Express)

[Sjiep]

And try Buckfast rather than drinking methylated spirits.
I think there are more buses from Glasgow to Skye but there should still be 2 a day from Inverness. Also the Fort William to Mallaig train is great (Hogwarts Express)

Ahh, Buckfast. The #1 reason for domestic violence or so my Australian friend who lived for 4 years in Edinburgh told me. Had it once. Peculiar drink, it wasn't particularly nice-tasting yet the urge toi take one more sip, and another persevered. And iw asn't quite so serious with my methylated spirits comment. I'll stick to beer and whiskey.

Did the Hogwarts Express train last year when I took the ferry from Mallaig to Knoydart. Train ride wasn't that particularly interesting I must say. True, the weather was pretty damn bad and the windows were downright smudgy dirty so that didn't really add to the experience.

I dunno...the time it takes to get to Portree from Glasgow is at least 7 hours, while from Inverness it seems doable in max 3 1/2 half hours. I guess it'll come down to which place has the best flight option for me.

I might be adding a rest day after Fisherfield myself!! (or just building in a spare day in case of rubbish weather, to allow you to enjoy the good days on the best bits).

I'd also be tempted to consider whether, rather than walking straight through to Shenavall from Kinlochewe, you could do a high camp somewhere above Lochan Fada, and split the "6" into a couple of days after that to reduce the overall distance. It might add flexibility to our schedule too.

Do check the Broadford to Kinlochewe public transport. It should be easily doable in a short day, as long as buses and train timing actually coincides!

I'm adding 2 spare days for those exact reasons you just mentioned. On the Shenavall part; I'm carrying along a ( big backpack with tent and would like to keep that one behind at/near the bothy, and tackle the 6 with a (very) light daypack. Quick google-search yielded results on the Broadford-Kinlochewe lane yeah, but if the bus to Kyle of Lochalsh isn't matching up with the train leaving for Achnasheen there I'm hoping to find a ride via hitchhiking. The distance is not far and I think that stretch of road seems quite a bit of traffic.

[Sunset tripper]

Travelling by public transport from Glasgow or Edinburgh to Skye you are going to waste a whole day. Same on the way back. You could split it up by staying in Fort William for a night or two.
Skye's far more accessible from Inverness. I don't know where you are travelling from but Inverness will almost certainly be more difficult to fly to and probably more expensive but maybe your best option.

All the best.

[Boris_the_Bold]

I am assuming you are wild camping?

If you can find a spare day somewhere along the way, I'd recommend adding the most-excellent Seana Bhraig to the Beinn Dearg group and splitting them over two days by camping by Lochan a' Chnapaich.

Enjoy your trip!

BtB

[Caberfeidh]

If you really want to escape crowded tourist spots, take a trip over to the Isle of Raasay ( ferry from Sconser on Skye, takes about twenty minutes) for unfrequented byways and lonely hills and shores. There's loads of wildlife too.And a pub. https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/raasay/raasay/index.html

Sound of Raasay in May

[Caberfeidh]

And remember that once in the highlands, hitch-hiking is an acceptable and enjoyable way to get around. Sometimes...

Remember to give the driver a good place to pull in out of the traffic, with good visibility - don't hitch on bad bends in the road, make sure you are visible from a long way off, stick your thumb out, face the oncoming traffic and smile. And don't dump your rucksack in a puddle nor have muddy boots.

And pray to the weather gods...

[Sjiep]

I am assuming you are wild camping?

If you can find a spare day somewhere along the way, I'd recommend adding the most-excellent Seana Bhraig to the Beinn Dearg group and splitting them over two days by camping by Lochan a' Chnapaich.

Enjoy your trip!

BtB

Yessir, plan is to mix up wild camping with bothies and the odd official camping site or even a youth hostel where it's available. Thanks for the suggestion, will definitely look into it.

If you really want to escape crowded tourist spots, take a trip over to the Isle of Raasay ( ferry from Sconser on Skye, takes about twenty minutes) for unfrequented byways and lonely hills and shores. There's loads of wildlife <span class="skimlinks-unlinked">too.And</span> a pub. <span class="skimlinks-unlinked">https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/raasay/raasay/index.html</span>

Sound of Raasay <span class="skimlinks-unlinked">May.JPG</span>

Ooooh, that looks incredibly inviting! Sconser quarry is about 5 km from Sligachan so not far from the Skye Trail. Another one I need to delve into. Ahhh so many options, yet such limited time. Besides the Raasay House, I suppose the only way to spend the night here would be wild camping? Does the north of the island have good spots to pitch one up?


And while on the subject of wild camping, would there be good opportunities along the Trotternish Ridge, or is it all too exposed up there?


And thanks people, it's always worthwhile to start a thread here. If not for the answers originally intended, one ends up here with plenty of other good tips and info to work with. Lovely.

[jmarkb]

And while on the subject of wild camping, would there be good opportunities along the Trotternish Ridge, or is it all too exposed up there?

It should be fine, there are plenty of flat grassy areas on the ridge. There are a couple of places (e.g. Bealach Chaiplin and Bealach Hartaval) when you can descend off the E side of the ridge to seek more sheltered spots.

[walkingpoles]

Just that you are aware, there are some nice or secluded bothies near where you're going.

- The Lookout on Skye
- Taigh Thormoid Dhuibh on Raasay
- Lochivraon a small detour between Kinlochewe and Shenavall
- Knockdamph somewhere between Inverlael and Seana Bhraig
- Glenbeg close to Beinn Dearg

Hiking in all regions you intend might be a lot. If you like it on Skye or around the Fisherfields, have a plan B for having some more hikes and doing Bein Dearg on your next holiday. If you never have seen the Cuillins before, you might be magically tempted to climb some of them at first sight. Nothing wrong with it. Quite the opposite, but they need proper preparation. Even in good weather.

[Caberfeidh]

Besides the Raasay House, I suppose the only way to spend the night here would be wild camping? Does the north of the island have good spots to pitch one up?

Yes you can wild camp on Raasay in many areas, just do so away from farmers' fields, houses and roads, i.e. not visible from houses and roads. A lot of the island is very rocky or muddy but there are many small bays and hidden glens where you could camp without anyone bothering. Oh, and stay away from Brochel Castle on the East coast of Raasay. Legend has it that the Laird and Lady of the Clan MacLeod performed dark magic rites to summon the devil, in order to sell their souls for financial gain in this life, exchanged for an eternity of damnation afterwards. From the look of the castle, I don't think they did too well out of the deal...

Sunset over Raasay from Ashaig Holy Well, Breakish, Skye.

[Sjiep]

Just that you are aware, there are some nice or secluded bothies near where you're going.

- The Lookout on Skye
- Taigh Thormoid Dhuibh on Raasay
- Lochivraon a small detour between Kinlochewe and Shenavall
- Knockdamph somewhere between Inverlael and Seana Bhraig
- Glenbeg close to Beinn Dearg

Hiking in all regions you intend might be a lot. If you like it on Skye or around the Fisherfields, have a plan B for having some more hikes and doing Bein Dearg on your next holiday. If you never have seen the Cuillins before, you might be magically tempted to climb some of them at first sight. Nothing wrong with it. Quite the opposite, but they need proper preparation. Even in good weather.

Yes, definitely. I'm sure that if I add Raasay I'll have to forget about the Bein Dearg area. Or, I won't do the last stages of the Skye Trail and after Raasay I head directly on to Kinlochewe. Got some homework to do I suppose.

Thanks for the bothy tips. I was skimming the maps here on WH but neither The Lookout or Taigh Thormoid Dhuibh got a mention. The MBA website has them neatly listed with exact location though. The Lookout definitely seems like a good alternative to Portree for spending the night before starting the Skye Trail.
Are bus schedules for May/June already available on the webs?

I won't be heading as far north where Knockdamph is located. I remember passing that one by when doing the Ullapool to Oykel Bridge stage.

Besides the Raasay House, I suppose the only way to spend the night here would be wild camping? Does the north of the island have good spots to pitch one up?

Yes you can wild camp on Raasay in many areas, just do so away from farmers' fields, houses and roads, i.e. not visible from houses and roads. A lot of the island is very rocky or muddy but there are many small bays and hidden glens where you could camp without anyone bothering. Oh, and stay away from Brochel Castle on the East coast of Raasay. Legend has it that the Laird and Lady of the Clan MacLeod performed dark magic rites to summon the devil, in order to sell their souls for financial gain in this life, exchanged for an eternity of damnation afterwards. From the look of the castle, I don't think they did too well out of the deal...

Wicked. I was planning on going to Transylvania in September to beef up on evil medieval history but seems I'll be supplied on this trip already.

I won't be wild camping in anyone's sight. Don't want to scar any person (or animal) with the sight of my hairy white bum in the early morning.

[Sjiep]

Don't really want to make a new thread about it, so will add it here.

For the Skye Trail; would the stretch from Rubha Hunish to Portree be doable in 2 days if one starts early on the first day from the Lookout bothy, wild camping first night somewhere along the Trotternish Ridge? Or is that too ambitious.