Hiking around Torridon

[moet36]

Hi everyone! We are coming back to Scotland after 14 years and are very excited! We are planning to spend 2-3 days in the Torridon area and are researching the 3 famous hikes (Beinn Alligin, Beinn Eighe and Liathach. A few rookie questions:

1. We have hiked a lot around the world, but almost all on decently-marked trails. We are not experienced at using OS Maps or Compasses, but are planning to buy them and try to learn. Is it feasible for us to try and do any or all of these 3 hikes on our own, or should we look to hire a guide? From reading, it seemed that Ben Alligin has a decently marked path, but we were less sure about Beinn Eighe and Liathach.

2. This is undoubtedly personal preference, but which of these do you think is the greatest experience?

3. How similar are the views and experiences? Is it worth doing all 3, or given we have limited time, is doing maybe 2 of them sufficient to get the experience of the area?

4. We are all too aware of the variable weather in the Highlands. Can any of these hikes be reasonably attempted in wet weather, or should we only try if the forecast is dry and clear?

thanks in advance for your help!

[Mal Grey]

Hi there.

Sounds like you'll have a great trip, Torridon is wonderful.

Being able to read maps and navigate with a compass is essential for walking in the Scottish Highlands, so you do need to sort that out before you go. Whilst there are paths on all 3 hills now, they're not always obvious in poor visibility, and are certainly not marked trails. The ridges of Liathach and Beinn Eighe in particular are quite complex at times, with false spurs and the like. Alligin is arguably slightly more obvious, but should still be treated with respect and there are no markings or signs.

There are also a few other things to consider:

Scrambling Experience. The Horns of Alligin, bits of Beinn Eighe, and Liathach in particular have sections of scrambling, the latter being a bit harder. As you mention "rock climber" in your profile, you'll probably find them easy, but if you're not used to scrambling don't start with Liathach!

Time of year/conditions. When are you thinking of going? "Summer" is in theory safer, as its warmer, but you can still get poor weather even then. A good time would be late Spring (May, perhaps early June). You then avoid the worst of the midges too, which can be grim from mid-June to September-ish.


As for which is best, well I reckon Liathach is the most memorable day out, but if you did all of Beinn Eighe it would be a superb big day but more about walking than scrambling. Alligin arguably has the best views as its closer to the sea so has both mountain and ocean to gaze over. They are absolutely all worth doing.

However, as you've never walked the Scottish Hills, I would suggest you don't actually plan to do all 3 in such a short visit. If you've not scrambled much, drop Liathach off the list, if you really want to do loads of scrambling, drop either of the other 2.

The other hills of the area, e.g. the fabulous hills just to the south between Torridon and Strathcarron, are just as good in different ways. Beinn Damh has some of the best hills, and is easier walking for example, a good intro to the area. (Have a look in Trip Reports for a winter ascent we did a couple of weeks back). There is also some excellent low-level walking on the generally good "stalker's paths" which wander through the valleys between the hills.

I'd also suggest that 2-3 days will have you wanting more!

[jmarkb]

Hi there,

1. We have hiked a lot around the world, but almost all on decently-marked trails. We are not experienced at using OS Maps or Compasses, but are planning to buy them and try to learn. Is it feasible for us to try and do any or all of these 3 hikes on our own, or should we look to hire a guide? From reading, it seemed that Ben Alligin has a decently marked path, but we were less sure about Beinn Eighe and Liathach.

Route finding on Alligin is indeed pretty straightforward, though there are multiple minor variations on the scrambling sections, and it's not always obvious which is the easiest. On Liathach there are possible problems leaving the main summit in the right direction (the ground is so bouldery that the path is not very evident) and locating the start of the descent path. On Beinn Eighe the only potentially tricky bit is finding the descent off Coinneach Mhor.

2. This is undoubtedly personal preference, but which of these do you think is the greatest experience?

Personally, I would rate Alligin top (and possibly my favourite hill walk in Scotland), then Liathach, then Eighe. Liathach is the most technical and spectacular, but Alligin is a more aesthetically pleasing circuit, without single dull moment. Others may of course disagree!

3. How similar are the views and experiences? Is it worth doing all 3, or given we have limited time, is doing maybe 2 of them sufficient to get the experience of the area?

On a global scale, the views and mountain architecture are quite similar. The chances of you getting 3 good weather days in a row is not very high, in any case!

4. We are all too aware of the variable weather in the Highlands. Can any of these hikes be reasonably attempted in wet weather, or should we only try if the forecast is dry and clear?

They are possible in wet weather, though is still better to stick to the ridge crests and avoid bypass paths which tend to get slippery. If the cloud is down, and you aren't going to see anything, then you might ask yourself whether there's much point, whether your navigations skills are up to it, and whether you would be better off doing a lower level walk instead! Having some Plan B's is always a good idea in Scotland....

Hope you have a great trip.

[Ben Nachie]

A couple of plan B walks are a walk to Coire Mhic Fhearchair on Beinn Eighe, and a circular walk right round Liathach. Both have rough paths all the way.

[jupe1407]

Torridon is absolutely brilliant and my favourite walking area by some distance.

Working on the assumption you get good weather for your trip, if pushed to choose, I'd go for Alligin. It's the perfect mix of pleasant scrambling, ridiculously good views and a not too long a walk (a little over 6 miles in total). The Horns are great fun in good conditions and a fine introduction to scrambling.

Liathach is again shortish in terms of distance, but more time consuming on the scrambling sections. As JMarkB says the descent off the first munro is loose, bouldery and not all that pleasant. The pinnacles are good fun though, harder than Alligin's horns, but in dry conditions the rock is grippy enough. The ascent to Liathach is unrelentingly steep until you hit the ridge at about 850m.

Beinn Eighe is a much longer walk, technically the easiest of the three. The only hairy bit is remember is the loose and fairly unpleasant ascent to Ruadh Stac Mhor (if going clockwise). It's a glorious ridge walk though and well worth giving it a full day's attention.

Good luck!

[GillSte]

These 3 hills are amongst the best in Scotland, but...you really do need to be able to navigate. There are several places where you've got steep descents on scree with no or poorly defined paths. If the mist is down, the scope for disaster is huge, especially on Liathach where you have to hit a very narrow col accurately off a very wide scree slope. It might look like a lovely day when you set off but the weather changes fast. The best plan is get a compass and practice using it on the hills near you; just pretend that there aren't any paths. You can also practice by going off the paths. Try this: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/hill-skills-map-basics https://www.thebmc.co.uk/how-to-take-a-compass-bearing It would be worth getting used to the OS map by trying an easier hill first. Slioch is awesome, and will provide a good test of your navigation skills without quite so much scope for disaster as Liathach. Enjoy!!!

[Boris_the_Bold]

As per the responses from others, you shouldn't head up any Scottish hills without a map and compass and the ability to use them. A (proper) GPS (Garmin or equivalent) can be a useful navigational 'cheat', but you should be able to cope when the GPS runs out of batteries or stops working or gets left by the summit cairn.

I'd recommend Beinn Alligin via the Horns and the two main (Munro) summits of Beinn Eighe via Coire Mhic Fhearchair, If you need a 3rd high-level option, the eastern end of Beinn Eighe (Black Carls and Sgurr Ban) is well worth considering.

For low level alternatives, the low level circuit round the back of Liathach is great, as is the walk round into Coire Mhic Fhearchair.

There are also a couple of great routes between the A890 and the A896 (Coulags to Annat and Achnashellach to Loch Clair via Coire Lair), which are well worth the logistical planning needed to make these work with just one car.

Hope you have a great trip!

BtB