So Easter Sunday was sunny and warm, and I fancied a bit of a hike but not too much, and I had been waiting for better weather since I heard of this mysterious doss. I had researched a bit on google earth and figured out where it was. A quick drive from Caberfeidh Towers, I abandoned the Caberfeidhmobile by the A82, donned my new boots and set off over the moor.
There is a bit of a rough footpath across fairly firm moor, with the occasional mud-wallow. No doubt this is a lot worse in wetter weather. Lichen-encrusted boulders gave landmarks to stop by for rests and scenery-appreciation. Also my new boots were showing their unsuitability for the activity; my heels were complaining of friction.
- Rannoch Moor#1
- Lichen-Encrusted Rocks ~ landmarks and windbreaks.
I left the track eventually, setting off for a group of trees on a hillock. Peat hags showed root systems of ancient forest, and I piled up some chunks of this old wood so the wind will dry them out and they will provide good campfire wood for someone, maybe me, at some point. A fire in this present weather would cause unmanageable moor fires with so much dead grass standing dry and warm, and the wild birds and little furry creatures nesting would be devastated; fires should only be used in damp or frozen weather.
- Pine-crowned hillock in the misty distance
- Pine crowned hillock with Blackmount behind
- Getting closer
A pair of wild Canada Geese honked at me reproachfully as I disturbed their peace, a heron fished by a loch and lapwings called across the moor.
- Wild Geese
As I floundered across the moorland of tussock grass, bull-rushes, deep wet sphagnum moss and peat hags the hillock with its crown of tall pines grew closer until I was there, in amongst the cool shade of the trees. There were a great many fallen boughs and trunks, some still hanging dangerously above the ground, "widow-makers" as foresters call them. The wood squeaked and groaned in the breeze, the only sound above the whisper of the wind across the moor.
- In the shady woods
I circled the hillock until I found the remains of the bothy. Not underground as such, just built into the side of the slope. If it had a roof covered with turf you might call it underground. A pile of wrecked corrugated iron and logs showed where someone had tried to fix a roof of sorts. A tiny old iron grate in a stone chimney showed where the heat had come from in times past, and shreds of old canvas in amongst the rocks showed where the previous roof covering had been. It would take a bit of work to do up this doss, and I don't see the point. It is a long way from anywhere and too small and rough to be of use to hikers and bothy rats. Ornithology enthusiasts might like the setting but not the hike in. Especially with boots that carve your heels into bloody stumps. Nice views of the hills and moors though. I had to hike all the way back, blistered heels and all.
- The remains of the bothy ~ maybe it was an old illicit still site.
- close up - entrance
- Grate and chimney
- Cold fireside
- inside ~ compact and bijou...
- External - messy.
- The hills are a bit far off for a howff.
- view from the shadows
- It's a long trudge back to anywhere
- Rannoch Moor and watery bits
I drove up to the Kingshouse, the Ballachulish Hotel was too far and I couldn't be bothered to investigate their mysterious "barwheys" which I suspect was a typo of "barley". Instead i investigated how fast I could eat a Kingshouse fish and chips washed down with apple juice. Again I forgot to ask how much a pint of beer or cider was. And what with the Easter drivers out, it took me three and a half hours to get back to Glasgopolis. My heels are still gowpin'...