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Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circuit

Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circuit


Postby MountainTrail » Sat Oct 12, 2019 2:34 pm

Hi folks,
Thinking of these 3 in an anti clockwise route . Any technical difficulties with route finding or scrambling on this route ? Any tips or hints greatly appreciated. Cheers :)
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Re: Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circui

Postby gaffr » Sun Oct 13, 2019 8:27 am

Hello... Whatever way you go you have the Threarlach Dubh gap to negotiate... Coming from Sgurr nan Eag end I abseiled into the slot and climbed out by the classic wee pitch.
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Re: Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circui

Postby magicdin » Sun Oct 13, 2019 8:46 am

You can avoid the Thearlaich Dubh gap by cutting across Coire Ghrunnda to col between Sgurr Sgumain and Alasdair. When at Mauvais Pas go round to right and you will find easy chimney (Hidden Chimney) and then easy scrambling to Sgurr Alasdair
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Re: Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circui

Postby Dave Hewitt » Sun Oct 13, 2019 9:27 am

There is quite a lot of technical difficulty aka hard-ish scrambling in all this - eg Sgurr Dubh Mor is one of the harder Skye Munros and getting up Alasdair from the Sgumain side is non-trivial. There's certainly a lot of route-finding even in clear weather - eg before you get on the tops there's a long history of people struggling to find a way into upper Coir' a' Ghrunnda. The time needed for getting round all three of these summits even in good conditions shouldn't be underestimated, either. A decade ago I went up Sgurr nan Eag, then backed off SDM from a little way above the col (suddenly didn't fancy it, despite having been up from there before), went back up to the main ridge, cut across below the TD gap to the Sgumain ridge and instead of going up Alasdair went the other way, along the top of Sron na Ciche then down to rejoin the moorland path and so back to Glen Brittle. This was on a hot day in May without a cloud in the sky. I didn't rush, and wasn't in the best scrambling/routefinding form that day, but neither did I stop for a snooze or a swim - and the whole thing took more than ten hours.

Incidentally, there's also a history - including on here - of people confusing Sgurr Dubh Mor with the much easier Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn.
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Re: Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circui

Postby gaffr » Sun Oct 13, 2019 10:22 am

I understand what DH is saying about 'going away' from the crest requiring a bit of route finding.....never been that way but it sounds as if what the prior gentleman was saying about this way leading to a steep wee wall that you encounter after finishing the climbs in Coire Lagan prior to topping out on Alasdair?
5%20Downclimbing%20on%20%20Sgurr%20Dubh%20Mor.jpg
Downclimbing from Sgurr Dubh Mor after 'doing the Dubhs' from Loch Coruisk.
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Re: Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circui

Postby Dave Hewitt » Sun Oct 13, 2019 10:55 am

Great picture, gaffr, but I'm not sure quite where that is at least in relation to the OP's enquiry. It's a long time since I've been up Sgurr Dubh Mor (1990, from the Ghrunnda side) but my memory of is grassy ledges between rock steps, rather than any clean rock downclimb such as that. Might the pic be on the Coruisk side of SDM, ie still part of the Dubhs ridge?

To the OP - one other thing to bear in mind is that there's very much a modern trend (understandable but rather disheartening, in my view) to tackle most if not all of the Cuillin Munros using the services of a professional guide. Lots of the reports here on WH and elsewhere in recent years will be of this sort - and doing it that way certainly gives the impression of things being easier than they might be if having to do one's own routefinding etc.
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Re: Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circui

Postby MountainTrail » Sun Oct 13, 2019 12:52 pm

Excellent replies everyone and exactly what I was looking for . Currently doing my homework and research on the different routes and approaches as suggested in the replies . Thanks to all :)
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Re: Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circui

Postby gaffr » Sun Oct 13, 2019 2:10 pm

Hello...Image I would have thought relevant to the question posed by the person asking....image taken looking back to the descent from SDM from the gap between it and Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn. :)
I don't really much care if folks want to spent their earnings on hiring a guide....it is their cash to spend as they wish. :)
I have had the pleasure of being in the hills with folks with more skills that I possess.... maybe some of the skills of the guides will brush off on them also. :)
Most of the time spent amongst the Cuillin was fifty five years ago when with we were all beginners and kind-of got on with it and muddled our way through with our adventures carrying not much more than a rope and learned to use using it as an aid. It has been great to have returned to these hills as an aged in more recent times and kind-of relived some of the grand times spent there. :)
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Re: Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circui

Postby Dave Hewitt » Sun Oct 13, 2019 2:20 pm

MountainTrail wrote:Excellent replies everyone and exactly what I was looking for . Currently doing my homework and research on the different routes and approaches as suggested in the replies . Thanks to all :)

How many of the twelve Skye Munros are among your remaining 21? Good luck with them however you go about it.
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Re: Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circui

Postby Dave Hewitt » Sun Oct 13, 2019 2:50 pm

gaffr wrote:Hello...Image I would have thought relevant to the question posed by the person asking....image taken looking back to the descent from SDM from the gap between it and Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn. :)

Ta. Steeper than I remember it!

I don't really much care if folks want to spent their earnings on hiring a guide....it is their cash to spend as they wish. :)

Me neither, overall - folk will do what they do - and good luck to the guides (of whom there are now quite a lot) for making a steady living from a niche market. My slight disheartenedness comes from a combination of seeing people very often rush Skye, and also - perhaps more to the point - hiring help for even the easier Munros there when they almost certainly wouldn't do so in say Glen Coe or Torridon, and thus arguably losing some of the sense of adventure. I don't say that as any kind of expert or as anyone with any great competence - I've never been a climber and I'm not a very good or competent scrambler. But over the course of almost 20 years, and plenty of visits, I got round the Skye Munros and did so only having a rope on twice - for the In Pinn unsurprisingly and also for Sgurr Mhic Choinnich in the rain. I was lucky in various respects - eg getting up Am Basteir in 1986 before various bits started falling off the Bad Step and making it harder - but in retrospect I'm quite pleased to have done it in what might be termed the old-fashioned way, waiting for the right conditions, the right mood in terms of confidence, and the right companions for various of the harder things. For the two days that involved a rope I did something that sounds similar to your own approach: went with a friend who was better than me, which was much more the method employed by timid would-be Munroists in the days before the increased number of guides. A lot of people in clubs still adopt this approach, but generally it seems less common than before.

Incidentally, as some people on here will know, I've done a lot of research into where people complete rounds of Munros, and over the past 15-20 years the number of people finishing on the In Pinn has declined markedly - it used to be jostling for third/fourth place along with Beinn na Lap (behind Ben More on Mull and Ben Lomond), but it's now in fifth and (in terms of what's known) appears about to slip behind Ben Hope into sixth. I'm pretty sure this is at least in part because of the partial commercialisation of the Cuillin, with a lot of folk now "clearing out" Skye mid-round - whereas in earlier days far more people left the awkward ones until last and then either finished on the In Pinn with the help of a climbing friend, or simply left it undone and retired on M-1.
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Re: Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circui

Postby dav2930 » Sun Oct 13, 2019 5:31 pm

Dave Hewitt wrote:Incidentally, as some people on here will know, I've done a lot of research into where people complete rounds of Munros, and over the past 15-20 years the number of people finishing on the In Pinn has declined markedly - it used to be jostling for third/fourth place along with Beinn na Lap (behind Ben More on Mull and Ben Lomond), but it's now in fifth and (in terms of what's known) appears about to slip behind Ben Hope into sixth. I'm pretty sure this is at least in part because of the partial commercialisation of the Cuillin, with a lot of folk now "clearing out" Skye mid-round - whereas in earlier days far more people left the awkward ones until last and then either finished on the In Pinn with the help of a climbing friend, or simply left it undone and retired on M-1.


I agree that many Munroists these days are perhaps a little too ready to hire a guide for the Cuillin, without giving themselves the chance to see if they can do at least some or most of them without professional help. I think this potentially deprives them of a big part of the satisfaction in climbing the Cuillin Munros. Far better, in my opinion, to do your homework and wait for good conditions, than be led on a leash by a guide in poor conditions just to 'get them out of the way'.

The Cuillin Munros were among the first I did simply because I loved Skye and found these peaks very exciting and motivating; I wanted to climb them before I had any serious thoughts of compleating the Munros. It never occurred to me to hire a guide because that would have taken away a big part of the challenge, sense of achievement and even pleasure, as far as I was concerned. Compleating has always been secondary for me; I still prefer repeating old favourites or seeking out exciting new (for me) routes up ones I've already bagged, than trudging up obscure lumps of moorland just to tick off what are calculated at the time to be Munros. :)
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Re: Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circui

Postby gaffr » Tue Oct 22, 2019 8:55 am

Incidentally it must be a little difficult for those, nowadays with queues at the pinnacle, for folks in the Cuillin for a complete continuous traverse. I guess that all would choose a good clear weather day.
All of those years ago I can't recall seeing many folks on the hills that day....it was a day of mixed weather.... Bit of rain but clearing up into some sun after around the half way stage.
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Re: Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circui

Postby jmarkb » Tue Oct 22, 2019 11:17 am

I would recommend purchasing a copy of this recent guidebook: http://micapublishing.com/thecuillin/
Lots of very clear sketchmaps and photodiagrams.
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Re: Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circui

Postby LeithySuburbs » Tue Oct 22, 2019 11:43 am

You can make a nice circuit by cutting over the lower Coir' a' Ghrunnda slabs and the stream and heading up the SW buttress of SnE. It's in the SMC Skye Scrambles book and is good fun - about grade 2/3 IIRC.

Rough GPS track here (I'm not going to draw a full route as I don't think it would be very helpful in such terrain) -


New_Route (1).gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts


As other posters have said, route finding between the summit of SnE and SDM is not completely straightforward (although not particularly technically difficult) and you can traverse the top of the screes round to the chimney for Alasdair.
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Re: Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, and Sgurr Alasdair Circui

Postby prog99 » Tue Oct 22, 2019 1:56 pm

gaffr wrote:Incidentally it must be a little difficult for those, nowadays with queues at the pinnacle, for folks in the Cuillin for a complete continuous traverse. I guess that all would choose a good clear weather day.
All of those years ago I can't recall seeing many folks on the hills that day....it was a day of mixed weather.... Bit of rain but clearing up into some sun after around the half way stage.

It’s quite easy actually. We Safely overtook everyone up the Inn Pinn and one of the guides at the top guessed we were doing a traverse and let us past to abseil on their rope.
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