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walking up FIVE FINGER GULLY - possible?

Re: walking up FIVE FINGER GULLY - possible?

Postby jmarkb » Sat Apr 04, 2020 11:22 am

Kevin29035 wrote:
prog99 wrote:No4 gully will be a hideous rubbly mess.

I went down that in summer once, big mistake. I wouldn't bother going up either.


Maybe I shouldn't have mentioned it - I didn't mean to promote it as a good idea!

For the ridge-averse, Coire Eoghainn is probably the best alternative route up the Ben.
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Re: walking up FIVE FINGER GULLY - possible?

Postby dav2930 » Sat Apr 04, 2020 12:59 pm

saltycaterer wrote:It was me that mentioned preferring climbing BEM by the corrie...I've nothing against ridge walks...but just don't really find them as exhilarating at others, just a personal preference, the corries, and gullies, etc always felt more secure and less exposed, but maybe that's just a personal preference, a better example would have been on BEM, my mate and I climbed up Coire na Tulaich and then also back down that way. There is a route called Curved edge that we looked at doing but to be honest it seemed way to exposed and from my point of view just not enjoyable, going up the corrie was enjoyable if a little slow with the loose scree.

the reason that I compared it to tower ridge on ben Nevis was that tower ridge (while considered a classic) does just not appeal to me...if Five finger gully was straight forward and useable...I would much prefer the feeling of moving up it, again just a personal thing that puts me in a MASSIVE minority of hill walkers.

The problem with comparing the Coire na Tulaich route up BEM with either Curved Ridge or Tower Ridge is that while the former is a standard walker's route, the latter are high grade scrambles / low grade rock climbs. Irrespective of the difference between gullies/corries and ridges, there is just no comparison in terms of difficulty. So it's not clear what your reasons are for your preference. It seems you were hoping Five Finger Gully would be similar to the Coire na Tulaich route up BEM. Now that you can see it isn't, you've sensibly ruled it out. But if a standard walker's route happened to follow a ridge-line rather than the floor of a corrie, would you necessarily rule that out? Or is your aversion to ridges so strong that you prefer to avoid them even when they present no difficulties? And is this aversion just a question of aesthetic preference, or of feeling unsettled by exposure? It would be easier to understand where you're coming from if you were to compare like with like.
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Re: walking up FIVE FINGER GULLY - possible?

Postby Sunset tripper » Mon Apr 06, 2020 1:04 am

What about starting from the north face car park and going up via Coire Leis? - something like this rough draft.

New_Route (11).gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts



It is a recognised route but you wont see many, if any folk in the corrie itself and not advisable if snow on the headwall which there can be even in summer. I've only done it in descent and its pretty rough going, the path down to the CIC hut is sketchy where it exists.

Some photos of the route up. The last one would be roughly where you come out of Coire Leis at a marker cairn. Its spectacular scenery all the way but I doubt if I will go through the Coire again.
20160818_164449.jpg
20190715_081540.jpg
20190715_122635.jpg
20190715_114258.jpg


Coire Eoghainn also is a spectacular place, but far more lonely and more complicated too. All these routes are a good bit harder to navigate than the walking route up to the summit of Buachaille Etive Mor and near double the ascent, pick a nice day whatever you do.
All the best :D
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