Scafell from Mickledore

[funkingbaxter]

Hi all,
I'm planning a Great End, Scafell Pike, Scafell, Slight Side loop from Eskdale next month, and am wondering about the route up Scafell. The obvious [only?] route is to descend to Mickledore after Scafell Pike, and climb back up to Scafell.

I've not done this route for over forty years, but recall there's a bit of a scramble to reach the summit. There appear to be three route options: -

Lords Rake
Lords Rake / West Wall Traverse
Foxes Rake (after further short descent)

I vaguely recall Wainwright suggesting one option not being suitable for those not keen on heights (my walking partner isn't great on the very steep stuff), and wondered which the experts (or those with better memories than me) would recommend.

Many thanks

[HalfManHalfTitanium]

I’ve done all three routes, but a few years ago. I also had a quick try of Broad Stand once but decided against it!

My memory of all these is that Wainwright’s descriptions are still spot on -

- Foxes’ Tarn is the least interesting and involves the most descent and re-ascent, but is the best if you don’t like any kind of scrambling

- Lord’s Rake is straightforward but there is tons of loose scree

- West Wall Traverse is surprisingly easy considering the vertical cliffs that surround it. A few bits of easy scrambling. I did it in mist and rain - would love to go back there one day when it’s clear weather.

tim

[ChrisButch]

A few years ago there was a partial collapse of the gendarme just above the start of the west wall traverse, and I know the local MR team were advising against using it because of the high risk of further rockfall. I don't know whether this is still the case. If it's now accessible again, that route is delightful (although it was a bit hairy the last time I was there because of a thin ribbon of ice up the floor of the final gully!)

[Mal Grey]

Foxes Tarn is the easy option, but more descent and re-ascent.

Lord's Rake went through a very unstable time, not sure of the current situation. The West Wall traverse used to be an excellent little route, but I doubt your companion would agree, it is a little intimidating with big drops behind you and can be loose.

Broad Stand is nasty as a nasty thing unless you're a climber and even then its surprisingly awkward.

[funkingbaxter]

Yes, Broad Stand was never an option, though I'm fairly certain I've done it previously.

I think we'll probably give Lords Rake a go if the weather/wind are favourable, and maybe take a look at the West Wall when we get there.

If it's wet, windy, or otherwise unpleasant I'll probably suggest we drop down to Foxes Rake, just to be on the safe side.

Thanks all

[Pointless Parasite]

I did the West Wall Traverse Christmas 2018 (there's a walk report about it on WH) and it's mostly just a walk except for a rock step at the very top. The scree in the gully is loose but it's not so steep. The rock that fell into Lord's Rake has broken up but could still be unstable.

[HalfManHalfTitanium]

Teeny bit of trivia: first recorded successful climb on Broad Stand was done by the poet Coleridge in 1802. He did what Wainwright warned against - heading straight for Scafell Pike from the summit of Scafell - and ended up doing a solo descent of the crag onto Mickledore.

[al78]

I'd like to have a look at Broad Stand when I am next up there. It is described as a rock climb and walkers should not use it to acceess Scafell, but most of the photos I have seen don't give a sense of scale. It looks like the rocky bits are only a few meters in height so it doesn't look that hard, but I'm sure it is harder than it looks. This video gives a better perspective:

, there is no way would attempt anything like that without an experienced guide as a minimum.

[CharlesT]

Another bit of trivia. I last climbed Scafell and Scafell Pike with my cairn terrier Duffy in 1992, via Piers Gill and Lord's Rake. By the time we got to the top of Scafell Pike he was seriously unimpressed with my route choices and ignored me for the rest of the day.

Not that he ever paid much attention to me anyway.

[Bonzo]

I've had a go at Broad Stand twice and on both occasions I've turned back at the point of gaining the narrow ledge from the top of the corner. It was damp both times and the drop was enough for me to make my mind up.

I've seen numerous people descending Broad Stand with some getting into a proper tizz.

I've also seen competent climbers take it on and comment on its nastiness, especially when wet.

[CharlesT]

I'd like to have a look at Broad Stand when I am next up there. It is described as a rock climb and walkers should not use it to acceess Scafell, but most of the photos I have seen don't give a sense of scale. It looks like the rocky bits are only a few meters in height so it doesn't look that hard, but I'm sure it is harder than it looks. This video gives a better perspective:

, there is no way would attempt anything like that without an experienced guide as a minimum.

Good one. Learning when to turn back in my impetuous youth as a climber is quite possibly why I have reached my dotage more or less intact.

[martin.h]

I've done all three routes over the years, Broad Stand is a no no, quite tricky with not much chance of escape once committed especially if the nerves kick in .

West wall traverse is an interesting and entertaining way to gain the summit of Scafell, take it nice and steady and your partner should have no problem. Recent reports suggest Lords Rake is stable.

Fox's Tarn is fine, just a bit more huffing and puffing

Have a good day out

[jmarkb]

I've been down Broad Stand as a descent after doing rock climbs. It's not easy due to the sloping holds, and I was glad to be wearing rock shoes rather than walking boots. Definitely not worth it as an objective in it's own right: the extent of the drop down to the left is not evident in the video!

Lord's Rake / West Wall Traverse is worth it for the scenery, but not for the limited amount of loose scrambling. In mist it can all be a bit confusing - make sure you have read a good description, as people have been known to get off route with serious consequences.

[funkingbaxter]

Thanks all for your responses.

If the weather is fine we'll ascend via Lords Rake, and take a view on the West Wall when we get there.

If the conditions have deteriorated at all we'll go via Foxes Rake...