The Beautiful South and a Missed Marylin

[johnkaysleftleg]

Black Combe, 9.5km 607m

A long weekend in the Lakes is always an enticing prospect but as ever carefully laid out plans can often come undone. The week long weather watch leading up to the Saturday initially started well but as time drew on summit gales looked to be the order of the day with threats of showers. This was not necessarily a problem however as it can bring into reckoning some lower targets that had yet to come under our boots. With the Saturday having the lightest winds we decided to make the longish drive right down to the South of the Lakes to visit Black Combe. Out of all the outlying fells this is possibly the most well known and recognised in views to the south from the main bulk of Lakeland hills.

First thing to go a little pear shaped was the journey, an accident on the A1 closed it to southbound traffic adding 40 minutes (could have been a lot worse tbh) meaning it was midday by the time we squeezed into one of the remaining places at Beckside. Not wanting a straight up and down this looked like a fine place to start and limited potential road walking to around 500 meters. Thing is, 500meters along the A595 on a busy bank holiday weekend is not really very appealing but following a look at the map and the hillside ahead I decided we could avoid the road entirely and set off up the lane.

Setting off up the lane from Beckside by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Start of the climb once through the gate by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Once we passed through a gate we headed off up by the wall at first before starting a zig zag up White Hall Knott. This would be difficult in the summer but for the moment the bracken was yet to spring into life so the going was good. The problem was Nicola immediately started getting a pain up the side of her leg once things started to steepen. Because she's a northern lass and hard she battled on to the top of White Hall Knott so we could have a bite to eat. This is a fine view point and is mysteriously missed by AW's sugested routes around these parts but it does qualify as a Birkett. We decided to push on and Nicola found the more gentle gradient up White Combe more to her liking as the tightness in her leg started to abate.

Looking up White Combe by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Looking down at the Whicham valley by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Across the Duddon Channel by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Panorama from White Hall Knott by Anthony Young, on Flickr (click on pic for bigger version)

White Hall Knott Summit by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Black Combe from the col by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Hughie by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Looking back at White Hall Knott by Anthony Young, on Flickr

White Combe came and went as views up Eskdale opened up, given how dry the weather has been this was a lovely wander with the easiest of going as we headed around the very broad ridge. I left my companions for a short while to bag Stoupdale Head, it provided an even better view up Eskdale and fortunately for a top that would be a clarty mess following rain it was fairly dry. I rejoining Nicola, Grace and Hughie who where patiently waiting at Whitecombe Head.

Eskdale fells come into view by Anthony Young, on Flickr

White Combe Summit by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Stoupdale Head Summit by Anthony Young, on Flickr

It was about this time that a distinct line had developed on the Southern horizon for what could only be described as glimpse of the North Wales coastline. Hoping it would stay clear for when we reached the summit we set off over the easiest of ground around the rim of the combe to the summit. Before we knew it we arrived at the commodious summit shelter, already inhabited with a group of young lads who looked like they were on a DoE expedition.
The mountains of Snowdonia were indeed just about visible to the south as where the border hills of Scotland to the north. Black Combe is a unique hill in England with a location giving such extensive sea views and it is a wonderful place to eat a slice of cake and have a flask of coffee.

Looking north up the coast by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Black Combe by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Looking back to Stoupdale Head by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Looking down the Black Combe by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Black Combe Panorama by Anthony Young, on Flickr (click on pic for bigger version)

Almost at the top by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Snowdonia just about visible by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Grace and Hughie by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Following our snacks we headed over to the huge cairn on the Southern top before heading down the fairly steep but easy Eastern Ridge. Views ahead of us where superb looking across the combe towards Eskdale with the charming little tarn at Eller Peatpot ahead. It was lower down the ridge when we noticed some very strange tracks on the fellside over the way, strange loops that would make no sense as paths. If anybody has any ideas I'd love to here them.

Cairn on Southern top by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Heading down the East Ridge by Anthony Young, on Flickr

From Eller Peatpot to Eskdale by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Hughie messing about by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Answers on a Postcard Please by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Soon enough any toe crushing steepness had ended and we were back on the lane for an easy walk back to Beckside. Black Combe is a superb fell and one that really should have been shoehorned into AWs original list when you look at some of the less distinguished members of the 214, it's unique summit view (for England) is a thing to behold on a clear day and a worthy target for any fellwalker.

A brief flatter bit on the way down by Anthony Young, on Flickr

White Hall Knott by Anthony Young, on Flickr

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Once back we drove up to our digs at Cockermouth Travelodge and were disappointed to find that even though travelodge is dog friendly (for a £20 surcharge) it's restaurant where we had booked evening meals and breakfasts was not. Nothing had been mentioned about this on the website so rather than take turns or leave the dog in the car we cancelled our booked meals (no refund problems) and went into Cokermouth and had a fine meal with a quite majestic pint of ale at the Castle Bar. All said and done a result!

Muncaster Fell, 8km 300m

Give Nicolas issues with her leg and the predicted strong winds we decided on a modest outing for the Sunday. We drove down to Ravenglass on a bright and very breezy day. Plan was to get the Eskdale railway as for as Irton Road Station and then walk back over Muncaster fell to Ravensglass.

The little steam train is fantastic as it makes it's leisurely pace up Eskdale and it was a shame to leave it before it's final stop but the fells were calling so we bit our farewells and disembarked at Irton Road.

Cute Train by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Hughie getting a cuddle by Anthony Young, on Flickr

View from Irton Road Station by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Of all the Lakeland valleys Eskdale is perhaps my favorite. It has all the charm in the world lower down but if you venture where the road does not you'll find the wildest valley in the district with some of the best walking in England. Today our walk if far more modest but still a small gain in height was soon rewarded with a magnificent view taking in many of Eskdales finest fells. The walking along Muncaster fell would ordinarily be very wet and boggy but the dry weather saw this reduced to a minimum but the evidence of much clartyness was on display.
Muncaster fell is however very similar to many higher fells in the Lakes with it's many lumps and bumps providing surprises and new views around each corner as we made our way without any sense of urgency along the broad ill defined ridge.

A little Height Gain for a Big View by Anthony Young, on Flickr (click on pic for bigger version)

Looking to the West by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Looking at the Whitfell Range by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Looking back towards Scafell by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Tree framing Harter Fell by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Laid back wall by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Following a stop for lunch and a visit to Ross's Camp we arrived at the trig point amid some very gusty winds. It certainly seemed for the best that we'd stayed low given the strength at just 231.4 m. Another good reason for the lower fell was that Nicola's leg had once again been playing up even with the minimal height gain so better safe than sorry.

Ross's Camp by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Hughie by the trig point by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Muncaster Fell with the true summit in the background by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Summit shot of Child and dog by Anthony Young, on Flickr

And so photos taken we headed off towards Ravenglass for what was a delightfully easy way down on what was, provided you where out a the wind, a lovely day. There was a small sting in the tail, just for me, once I got back home however. I discovered the true summit was another lump entirely to the one that was home to the trig point so the bagging of a Marylin couldn't be claimed. This monster lay 500m back along the ridge and towered a mighty 70cm above the OF summit A surveying trip to Muncaster fell in September 2016 made these findings, I wonder how many Marylin baggers should have there total reduced by one now?

Before I digested this disappointment we drove up Eskdale to the Woolpack for a fine repast before making our way back to Cockermouth.

Easy walking back to Ravenglass by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Muncaster Tarn by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Bluebells by Anthony Young, on Flickr

Given Nicola's injury, believed to be caused by waking around London in high heels for a couple of days midweek, we stayed off the fells on the Monday and spent a few hours wandering around Derwent Water before the masses of Bank Holiday tourists arrived. This was a weekend that had it's disappointments but also plenty good bits certainly enough to keep me going till my next hill fix.

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[Broggy1]

Enjoyed that very much (particularly after doing Black Combe myself last Thursday).

It's a bit like Criffel in Galloway in a lot of respects - you see it all the time and you just kind of have to do it. Nobody who does will be disappointed.

Excellent pics.

[trailmasher]

Three good days out there JKLL with a great report and pics advertising it all well enough E and I was up Black Combe last year and along with its neighbours a good hill it is too Bit of a bummer about Muncaster and a long drive back to re-do it if you're really keen on the summit A visit to the Woolpack should be mandatory when in Eskdale which is also one of my favourite places to be

Oh! and well done to the rest of your team especially Nicola for carting on like she did with a bad leg:clap:

[johnkaysleftleg]

Enjoyed that very much (particularly after doing Black Combe myself last Thursday).

It's a bit like Criffel in Galloway in a lot of respects - you see it all the time and you just kind of have to do it. Nobody who does will be disappointed.

Excellent pics.

Cheers Broggy, it is a bit like Criffel in some ways but certainly a lot drier.

I don't think I've ever seen photos of Black Combe before. Looks great. I hadn't realised it was such a sprawling hill with several tops and deep sided valleys. Doesn't look as boggy as the top half of the path up Criffel but agree that Criffel is well worth while doing.

Muncaster Fell looks interesting with its various tops and ups and downs. I had read about it being re-measured a couple of years ago and its high point being "moved". Apparently this caused a lot of grief among dedicated Marilyn baggers. Using the train looks a nice way of tackling it.

For me Black Combe , from this direction at least, is very much like the Howgills, the black combe itself quite reminiscent of Cautley crag. I can't believe the ground here is ever as wet as Criffel, fortunately we did it with all the mudslides and bogs frozen solid but it was bloody cold.

The train is great and I'm sure you could make a very nice route from the end of the line if you had the time and inclination.

Three good days out there JKLL with a great report and pics advertising it all well enough E and I was up Black Combe last year and along with its neighbours a good hill it is too Bit of a bummer about Muncaster and a long drive back to re-do it if you're really keen on the summit A visit to the Woolpack should be mandatory when in Eskdale which is also one of my favourite places to be

Oh! and well done to the rest of your team especially Nicola for carting on like she did with a bad leg:clap:

Cheers TM, Not sure I'll be back to bag the Muncaster Marylin any time soon. Far too much good stuff around Eskdale for when I'm next is that area again. I think Grace would lynch me if we didn't vistit the Woolpack when in Eskdale