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South West Coast Path 1

South West Coast Path 1


Postby houdi » Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:50 pm

Date walked: 26/03/2011

Time taken: 7

Distance: 21 km

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We may not have mountains here in the South West but we do have then next best thing – the South West Coast Path. And the most spectacular stretch starts at Hartland Point in North Devon and takes in North Cornwall’s rugged Atlantic coast down to Padstow. Obviously, it helps if you have two cars. There are buses, but most of the access points for this part of the coast are not on normal transport routes and large towns are few and far between. Solo coast path walking here can be a bit off-putting as it means retracing your route, and choosing a shorter distance as you still have to come all the way back. I don’t find this all that bad to be honest. The contours are entirely different on the return and I make a conscious effort not to look back on the forward journey so that I can enjoy fresh views in retrospect.

Today, I was tackling one of the hardest stretches from Crackington Haven to Boscastle and back again – thirteen miles all told, but a gruelling thirteen miles of steep ups and downs, including Cornwall’s highest sea cliff (twice), the unimaginatively titled, 700ft High Cliff.

Coast path walking of this kind can be much more physically demanding than mountain walking. There are frequently far more ups and downs and these tend to be steep in the extreme. The stretch from Hartland Point to Bude, for instance, is generally regarded as the most strenuous in the country and my route today is also pretty severe. I was expecting a very hard day. One thing I hadn’t banked on was the heat. Cornwall is famous for its winds coming off the Atlantic. Today is was hot, humid, and completely still. Not ideal walking weather.

The first climb out of Crackington Haven is actually not part of the coast path as it is a headland called Cambeak which juts out into the Atlantic. I climbed this instead of skirting around and was surprised to see a narrow arête going out into the sea and connecting with another hill at the other end topped by a small cairn. The cairn had me intrigued and I braved the arête (huge drop offs into the Atlantic below) to investigate. The interesting bit came when I looked back from the cairn to see that my route across was completely undercut by erosion and waiting to fall into the sea. If I’d see that from the other side I might have thought twice about braving the arête. A nice piece of engraved slate decorates the cairn, declaring ‘Jak Allan was here with her friend Mary, 15th January, 1988’. I guess it has survived undisturbed for so long because not many people are crazy enough to venture out there?

This part of the coast is quite spectacular, but the haze and sea mist prevented any distance views. The path goes across the top of an area called ‘The Strangles’ which has many interesting rock formations, including a sea arch. This leads to the climb up onto High Cliff. On the outward journey the ascent is quite gradual and not too demanding. In the other direction it’s a killer, as I was to discover on the return journey.

I was surprised to see goats sunbathing on the cliffs between here and Rusey Cliff. I had never heard of there being any wild goats here, but the mystery was solved when I saw them wandering back to their field on my return leg. There were also several young Highland Cattle in a nearby field, enjoying the warm Cornish sunshine and, I suspect, not missing all that Highland snow one little bit.

It was on past Gull Rock and over Beeny Cliff to the narrow cove of Pentargon where a stream tumbles down the cliffs creating a decent waterfall. And then it’s up and over Penhally Hill to the rugged cliffs of Penally Point which form the sheltered northern arm of Boscastle Harbour.

I had a quick look around the ‘new’ Boscastle, completely revamped after the floods of 2004 which included the building of a nifty new footbridge across the river. It is interesting to note that my starting point, Crackington Haven, also suffered from those very same floods but never rated a mention other than in the local press. After a diversion to the Willapark Coastguard Lookout Point on the opposite cliffs and a Cornish ice cream from a local Boscastle shop, it was time to tackle the six and a half mile return leg.

The heat was getting to me and I got thigh cramps on the first climb. I struggled going back but it still only took me three hours over all those endless ups and downs, which was exactly the same time as my outward journey. I even went back out onto Cambeak again before heading down into Crackington Haven for a well-earned pint at the Coombe Barton Inn. I didn’t quite down it in one go, but it wasn’t far off. More coast path walking next week (weather permitting). A cooling breeze would be nice.

Bos1.jpg
No surfing today


Bos2.jpg
Start Point – Crackington Haven


Bos3.jpg
Looking back over a calm Atlantic


Bos4.jpg
Optional climb to Cambeak


Bos5.jpg
If I fall here, I’m definitely going to get wet!


Bos6.jpg
Perhaps Crib Goch’s not so bad after all?


Bos7.jpg
Back a bit, I can’t quite get you all in!


Bos8.jpg
Penally Hill


Bos9.jpg
Looking south over Penally Point


Bos10.jpg
Boscastle Harbour


Bos11.jpg
Entrance to Boscastle Harbour


Bos12.jpg
Boscastle village


Bos13.jpg
Looking back from Willapark


Bos14.jpg
Penally Point & Meachard Rock


Bos15.jpg
Pentargon


Bos16.jpg
Who are you calling a Grockel?


Bos17.jpg
Gull Rock & Buckator cliffs


Bos18.jpg
The Strangles


Bos19.jpg
Okay, you look cute right now, but when you grow up you’re going to look like the Devil!


Bos20.jpg
The mighty Cambeak


Bos21.jpg
Cambeak Cairn


Bos22.jpg
Jak Allan’s plaque on Cambeak
houdi
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Re: South West Coast Path 1

Postby PauloUK77 » Sun Apr 03, 2011 10:29 pm

That part of the path looks spectacular,I did a little bit near Newquay.I'd love the time off work to take it on in one go.Devon and Cornwall are blessed with a great coast.
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Re: South West Coast Path 1

Postby skuk007 » Sun Apr 03, 2011 10:42 pm

Nice pics houdi, brings back some memories. Done little bits of the coast path over the years and would agree that many parts are a good workout. Must get back down there soon.
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Re: South West Coast Path 1

Postby ChrisW » Sun Apr 03, 2011 10:57 pm

A timely report and some cracking(ton) photo's :lol:

I have just booked a couple of weeks in Bude with my new grand baby (oh and his parents too) having spent a year in Bude it is always the place in Cornwall I return too (usually once or twice a year) and your photo's tugged at my heart and made me wish away the days to July 1st.

This is a shot of my lad almost 20 years ago, watching the sunset at Trebarwith Strand wishing to stay just a little longer, seems incredible to think that his own little boy could be repeating this scene in just a few years time :shock:
Image

I envy you the beauty of the South West, thanks for posting :D
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Re: South West Coast Path 1

Postby houdi » Sun Apr 03, 2011 11:08 pm

Thanks for the encouraging comments. Actually, I was more knackered doing this walk than the South Glen Shiel Ridge!
The heat was stifling though. Impressive sunset photo ChrisW. One thing about the Atlantic coast you get some incredible sunset photos with the sun sinking into the ocean. I did Crackington to Widemouth Bay (and back) yesterday which is right next to Bude, Will try and get that report on the forum tomorrow.
houdi
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Re: South West Coast Path 1

Postby yokehead » Mon Apr 04, 2011 8:49 am

Very interesting and entertaining report. :D I wonder what your total ascent turned out to be?

Looks like it's far more fun than some of the Munro shapeless lumps! :lol:
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Re: South West Coast Path 1

Postby BlackPanther » Mon Apr 04, 2011 12:45 pm

Ahhhhh Cornwall! My husband's home ground... There are so many lovely spots and viewpoints along the coast! Last year we spent 2 weeks in Crackington Haven and we explored Cornish cliffs, that means I explored it, my second half knows all these bits by heart. Nice to see familiar views again :D :D My favorite place is Tintagel and Rocky Valley. Also Widemouth Bay and Bude with their sandy beaches.
cornwalll d1 306.JPG
Tintagel cliffs

cornwalll d1 321.JPG
Rocky Valley

cornwalll d4 093.JPG
Widemouth Bay
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Re: South West Coast Path 1

Postby houdi » Mon Apr 04, 2011 6:33 pm

The stretch from Crackington Haven to Tintagel is 4045ft (1233m) of ascent, but the going is quite easy from Boscastle to Tintagel and most of the ascent is in the Crackington Haven-Boscastle part. Seing as I did it both ways I must have done nearly 8000ft of ascent. Of course, the heat made it feel twice that. I'm hoping to be in Scotland in June and looking forward to some easy Munros :D
Excellent pics, Blackpanther. You had a nice clear day for your shots unlike me. Looking forward to the Tintagel-Port Isaac stretch. Might be some scrambling opportunities in Rocky Valley. 8)
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