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A 2 day walk and camp in the Dunkerron Mountains in Kerry, SW Ireland.
Although the route itself just about reaches the 600m contour, the terrain is extremely rough and great care is required. Also, as there are no paths or tracks once up in the hills, it's essential to be able to navigate with ease. And, as this is SW Ireland and the prevailing weather is from the Atlantic, cloud, mist and rain are very common.
The highest mountain in Ireland, Carrauntoohil, 1037m, is just outside Killarney and, if you are here to climb it, I would strongly suggest a few days in the Dunkerron mountains also.
- SW Ireland showing the area in question
The nearest town is Sneem, where essential food, fuel, etc, can be had. Kenmare, further east, has many fine restaurants, hotels, etc, and shops for stocking up on both essentials and non-essentials.
Route:
The start and finish is at GPS ref. 51.8692, -9.9274, and I got here on the Saturday afternoon after a drive of almost 3 hours and parked up.
The ascent to the ridge, w of Knocknagantee, follows a man made track which makes for an easier and more gradual ascent.
- Looking towards the cliffs at the head of Coomavoher valley. There are 5 (possibly 6) pools nestled in the cliffs.
I headed west along the ridge to take in the top, Knocknagantee West Top, 533m, which I hadn't climbed before. Retracing my steps, I contoured across to the col below Cnoc Breasail, 591m and reached it's summit after a quick climb.
I was now looking for a suitable campsite, as the time was around 6.30pm, and the view down towards Coomavaranniha Lough showed a large, flat area of grass - perfect!
- Slievenashaska from Cnoc Breasail, with Coomavaranniha Lough.
I pitched camp in the flat grassy area just left of the Lough
However...the descent from Cnoc Breasail was down the most difficult terrain I have ever experienced in 35 years of hill walking! Picture this - many, many thin flakes of rock, all standing up on their long edge, with grass gullys in between, and all at an angle of almost 90deg to the way you want to go! It need very careful route finding...and some bravery at times!
- Campsite for the night
Next morning, I was up and away by 8.00 and began the climb up towards Slievenashaska, 578m, with a detour out to An Bhinn Lair, 514m first.
- The view back to Cnoc Breasail
An Bhinn Lair is a very fine viewpoint and overlooks Lough Currane and the lovely town of Waterville.
- Coomcallee and An Bheann Mhor from An Bhinn Lair
My route continued towards Slievenashaska South Top, 565m, dropping in a SW direction to a col before turning SE to reach the summit of Coomnahorna, 590m. The terrain had eased a little on the way out to An Bhinn Lair, mostly short grass. However, I was now back in very rough, bouldery and uneven terrain. I didn't mind it too much - in fact, I was enjoying the challenge - as I had a heavy-ish pack which made for slow going anyway.
- Looking back across rough ground to Slievenashaska South Top
Finally, from Coomnahorna summit, I descended the East ridge to forestry where I was able to pick up a forest road. I was able to follow this down to the valley where I met the road back to my car.
I highly recommend this area (and Kerry in general) for it's fine, rugged unfrequented mountains!
(A version of this report first appeared on the mountainviews.ie website. Mountainviews is a great resource for hillwalkers in Ireland - very similar to Walkhighlands)