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Hut to hut in Italian Switzerland

Hut to hut in Italian Switzerland


Postby past my sell by date » Sun Jun 12, 2022 3:37 pm

Date walked: 18/07/2002

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In 2002, Bill and I decided to explore the Italian-speaking Swiss province of Ticino. We stopped the night in Andermatt, drove thru the St. Gottard pass tunnel to the capital Airolo, parked the car, took a bus up to the top of the Nufenen pass and headed South crossing into Italy after a couple of km. We took our passports but no-one ever asked for them and indeed there wasn't really any sign that you were entering another country :lol: The walk centred on the Ossola valley an area of many lakes - most of them with dams - no doubt all feeding a hydroelectric power station somewhere to the South. My chief memory of the walk is of curious horizontal holes in the rock through which the sound of rushing water could be heard. :lol:
It was quite a circuitous route and took me a seriously long time to scour the maps and work out exactly where we went - and even so there are places where I'm not sure :lol: :lol: but Bill wrote the walk up in his diary at the time and I have used his account more or less verbatim and stuck in the pictures where I think they belong. The Italian huts were all very friendly and not too crowded: i think having British guests was probably quite a novelty
Day 1
DAy 1.jpg
Day 1 map
Thursday 18th July - Stopped raining but Andermatt still covered in cloud.
Drove over St Gotthard Pass into sunshine – “Italian” Tichino Switzerland. Left car in Airolo and took 1105 postbus upto the Nufenen Pass - 2478m - quick lunch at café and left at 1230.
Path dropped down to next hairpin bend where construction road led upto the Griessee Dam 2387m , with the menacing but receding Griessgletcher at far side of lake.
OS01---The-Fulhorn-from-the-Nufenen-Pass.jpg
From the Nufenen pass - the curious vertical strata of the Fulhorn stand out
OS02---The-Griesee-and-the-Griessen-Pass.jpg
Beside the Griessee - with the 2482m Griessen pass beyond and the 3044m Punta di Camosci and the Griess glacier on the R
The path traversed around lake upto Griessen Pass 2479m – Swiss/Italian border.
Decided not to take the Senterio over the flanks of the Battlemathorn but followed the steep path down the mountainside to bottom @ 2120 m and climbed back up the far side to Rifugio Citta di Busto 2482 m – at 1630 - this was exhausting – unaccustomed to the altitude - to be met by the news that the Rifugio was full – large numbers of noisy school children (42) – However we could see the next Rifugio and persuaded the warden to telephone & book beds for us. easy walk to start with - contouring along edge of steep ridge – past a football pitch - not too many at 2400 m. but at head of valley under the mass of Battlemathorn the path dropped steeply down to base of dam and then up steeply to Rifugio Cesar Mores 2505 m at 1715 – overlooking Lago del Sabbione . At the far end of the Lago the Hohsaan Gletscher loomed and we could just see the next Rifugio – Claudio e Brunno at 2713 m. Luckily there were only 4 other people at Rif Cesar Mores ( max 26) and we were made most welcome by the warden and his family: lots of good food and a 4 bunk room with a heater and even hot water in the modern bathroom
OS03---The-Lago-del-Sabbione.jpg
The lago de Sabbione from just above the Caesar Mores with the 3182 m Hohsandhorn at the head of the glacier
caesar mores.jpg
Caesar Mores hut - Modern library picture

Day 2
DAY 2.jpg
Day 2 map

followed path down to the Lago di Morasco 1820 m and then around Western side to the dam where we joined the path back up into the moutains – to start with a well graded easy roadway upto the plateau then a nice path around side of valley overlooking the Lago and up to the Alpe Nefelgui 2048m and then a easy walk slowly climbing up the Vallora di Nefelgui - at the head of the valley 2300 m the path steepened and we had a stiff climb past small snow fields to the Passo di Nefelgui 2583 m. where we had a whole new vista of magnificent mountains to view.
OS04---The-Lago-Morasco.jpg
Standing beside the Lago di Morasco near the head of the Val Formazza
OS05---Leaving-the-Lago-di-Morasco.jpg
leaving the Lago di Morasco on the path to the Passo Nelfegiu
OS06---In-the-grassy-Vallone-di-Nefelgiu.jpg
In the grassy meadows of the Vallone di Nefelgiu with the long climb to the pass ahead
OS07---Looking-East-from-the-Passo-Nefelgiu.jpg
Looking E from the Passo Nefelgiu towards the Bacino del Toggia, the Bochetta del Maddia and Monte Basodino (3273m) far R
OS08---The-Lago-Vannino-from-the-Passo-Nefelgiu.jpg
Looking down from the pass (2583m) to the Lago Vannino and Monte Minoia (2800m) beyond
The path descended steeply, mostly alongside a stream to Lago Vannino , arriving at 1515 pm Rifugio Margaroli being just above the dam 2194 m.
OS09---Descending-from-the-Passo-Nefelgiu.jpg
Descending from the pass to the Lago Vannino and the Rifugio Margaroli - Lago Sruer is on the R
A more modern Refugio but another nice welcome – some confusion about our booking but we got beds in a 3 tier 9 bunk room.
Margoli.jpg
Rifugio Margaroli - Modern library picture

Day 3
DAY 3.jpg
Day 3 map
Another beautiful day. Left at 0855, dropped down valley for a short time then turned left off main track and Monte Minoia (2800m) climbed steeply up lush grassy slope with lots of lovely flowers,
across meadow and then path climbed steeply around large boulder field upto Bocchetta del Gallo
2498m to be greeted by another stupendous view. the Passo itself was bleak and the path down difficult – over many large rockfalls of bad rock though parts were easy as we strode down short snowfields. The final part of the valley being an easy walk down to Alpe Freghera di Sopra 2082 m.
The path split here – the main one descending steeply to the bottom of the narrow main valley at Sotto Frua 1546m but we branched Left on a little used path traversing along the rim of the valley in varied vegetation, past Alpe di Mexxo – ruined and then around the circular rim of a collapsed cave – very weird, the path then dropped through hazel bushes to some old electricity/waterworks buildings where we lost the path, eventually deciding it followed what appeared to be an old railway track traversing the mountainside, finally far above the Cascata del Toce – cascades over the rocks
we found a barely marked path down the open mountainside to the tourist cafes at the top of the
cascades , 1681 m 1230 pm where we stopped for a welcome beer.
We restarted at 1320 following a path across the meadow and soon turned left up an old packhorse trail and then turned off this up a very steep narrow path up to Alpe Ghighel, the path was well graded so climbing was easy though very hot, as the path was well maintained but soon the cool wet vegetation was brushing over us – helping to cool us down. Apart from an occasional landslip the path was fine and after a stop to admire the view we reach the top 2132 m at 14.35.
OS10---At-the-top-of-the-track-above-the-Cascata-del-Toce.jpg
Looking back W across the Val Formazza from the top of the steep track above the Cascata del Toce
We then followed an old industrial roadway up to a col and down to Lago Castel 2216m,
OS11---Approaching-the-Lago-Castel.jpg
Approaching the Lago Castel: tomorrows route goes over the Bochetta Val Maggia in the ridge of mountains behind
OS12---Monte-Basodino-from-the-Bacino-del-Toggia.jpg
Monte Basodino (3273m). - an impressive peak which dominated the area - from the Bacino di Toggia: the other side of the mountain is heavily glaciated
then at last a nice level path , past the abandoned Lago around a small hill down to Lago Toggia 2191 m, across the dam and down to Rifugio Maria Luisa 2160 m arriving at 1635. a friendly welcome, large old cabana (70 beds).
OS13---The-Bochetta-Val-Maggia-from-the-Bacino-del-Toggia.jpg
Looking up to the Bochetta -Val-Maggia from the Bacino del Toggia above the Rifugio Maria Luisa
Maria luisa.jpg
Rifugio Maria Luisa - Modern library picture

Day 4
Swiss Alpine Cliub maps have now been taken over by Migros the Swiss supermarket chain, and are unavailable unless you are a member , so I have had to switch to All Trails which are free but not as detailed
DAY 4.jpg
Day 4 map - as far as Capanna Basodino
DAY 4a.jpg
Day 4 map to Capanna Cristallina
8 am breakfast, sky dull but weather looked ok. Left at 0855, walked up to dam and followed roadway round to signpost for Robiei – 4hrs – clouds now rolling in from behind us(SW). we immediately lost the path but soon refound it, joining another path to the Griespass, our path crossed over the stream up hillside to a plateau, by the time we reached the top it was raining and the path disappeared again. We made our way up the hillside till we found the two Laghi Boden and found the path again between the 2 laghi. 2530 m. The steep but easy climb up the path to Bochetta di Val Maggia 2635 m was accomplished at 1000 am.- We were back in Switzerland.
The rain then really set in as we descended the Val Fiorinna, we missed the junction for the upper path, on our left was the Gletscher del Basodina with the mountain behind it . At times the path was very rough where it passed through recent rockfalls and lower down where it passed above a narrow gorge a lot of work was being done to make steps and stabilise the pathway. We arrived at the Robiei - Cabana Basodino 1856 m at 1315 for a quick lunch – soup and a beer.
At 1355 we decided it had either stopped or was about to stop raining and decided to set out for Cabana Cristallina, we walked back up to the base of the Lago di Robiei 1940 m and then followed the road along the valley climbing uptowards Lago Bianco (2077m), shortly before the base of the dam at 1455 our path turned off to the right climbing steeply up the hillside, again the well graded zig zag path over the open rocky hillside made the climb easy to the top of the ridge 2341 m and there were superb views behind us.
OS14---The-other-side-of-Monte-Basodino.jpg
Monte Basodino from the rough ground above the Lago Sfundau
The path then followed a hidden valley over another ridge to see Lago Sfundau 2392 m far below us. The lago was entirely surrounded by rocky mountainsides, a deep blue with several icefloes but no apparent outlet.
OS15---The-mysterious-Lago-Sfundau-(2392m).jpg
First view of the mysterious Lago Sfundau: there is no visible sign of an exit for the water - nor any sign that there has ever been one :? . I have a feeling that water was gushing out of a hole in the cliff just above it, but I can't see it in the picture :?
OS16---Path-above-the-Lago-Sfundau.jpg
Walking along the path above the Lago Sfundau
OS17---The-Lago-Sfundau-from--the-other-end.jpg
Looking back at our route along the Lago: Monte Basodino beyond
A rocky but well graded almost flat path contoured around it and at the far end climbed up the mountainside to Passo di Cristallina 2568 m– where a monstrosity of a new Cabana had nearly been completed – an ugly building visible from miles away. :(
The weather had cleared up by now and it had become a delightful afternoon walk down to the Cabana Cristallina 2349m – a temporary wooden hut replacing the old one which had been swept away by an avalanche ? The meal was disappointing but the wine made up for it.

OS18---Looking-back-from-the-Passo-Cristallina.jpg
A final look back at Monte Basodino from the Passo cristallina (2600m)
OS19----Looking-North-across-the-Val-Bedretto.jpg
Looking N across the Val Bedretto from the Val Cristallina to the Witenwasserenstock (3120m) and the Pizzo Lucendro (2963m)
Capanna Cristallina.jpg
Capanna Cristallina - Modern library picure. I think this is the monstrosity Bill refers to :lol: :lol:

DAY 5.jpg
Day 5
Day 5 map I have highlighted the Capanna di Cristallina and Alpe di Cristallina where Bill mentions we turned R. The blue line is the Sentiero val Bedretto which we eventually joined for the final section into Airolo
Up at 0700 for a nice breakfast and off at 0755 for a lovely walk down the valley to the edge of the main Airolo/Nufenen valley where we turned right at Alpe di Cristallina 1800m to follow the path contouring along through the pine woods, dropping down to 1637 m and back up to 1811m for about 5 km to near the cable car station. The road, by now tarmacadamed zigzaged downwards above Airolo, on reaching civilisation the path left the road and dropped very steeply through the forest emerging at the cable car base station and the across the river to the station and our car 1175 m at 1140.
OS20---On-the-Hohenweg-(1).jpg
On the Hohenweg (high level route) aon the South side of the Val Bedretto - looking towards the Nufenen pass
OS21---On-the-Hohenweg-(2).jpg
On the Val Bedretto Hohenweg -2
OS22---On-the-Hohenweg-(3).jpg
On the Val Bedretto Hohenweg -3
OS23---On-the-Hohenweg-(4).jpg
On the Val Bedretto Hohenweg -4
OS24---On-the-Hohenweg-(5).jpg
On the Val Bedretto Hohenweg -5 - just before the descento Airolo
past my sell by date
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