A stunning walk in the Cares Gorge - Picos de Europa

[matt_outandabout]

The Cares gorge is legendary in Spain, and indeed there are online articles suggesting it is one of the finest day walks in the world. I don't disagree, it is utterly stunning and I would gladly return.
https://www.spain.info/en/hiking-trails/cares-trail-hiking-spain/
Details:
The gorge is about 10km through – 12km if you go to the very end, but we decided to return once we could see the buildings and village at the end. You can get local buses and taxis saving a return trip - but we questioned both the time to take the bus and thought on the day that to walk both ways maximised the visual pleasure and prolonged the enjoyment....
The access to the South / West Valdeon end is more convoluted, however you start with the tunnels and bridges which many claim to enjoy more.
We chose to start from the northern end, just above the pretty tourist town of Cabrales.
An early start is thoroughly recommended – this is a very popular walk and the start is also the access to the Bulness funicular railway and a couple of day routes around the high villages of the Picos. Parking is free on the road – but if you are late, some of the extra car parking is 3km back down the valley, adding 6km of road walking to the day. We were there mid-week and arrived by 9 and were one of the last road parking spaces.
It is also a place that would be in full sun – the day after we were there a family we met endured 35*c heat and white limestone for the day, compared to our overcast 20*c day…
No facilities on the route.


The walk.
After squeezing in to a last parking spot we were glad to see that most walkers either headed back down to the funicular or headed onto the Bulness loop or over onto the high platuea.
This left a steady stream of people with ourselves, but it never felt overly busy.
The modest start belies what lays only a couple of kilometres away.
Spain - Basque and Picos 2022 by Matt, on Flickr
The path from the road shows the nature of the day quickly – it is rough stonework, but with much evidence of ancient workings, paths and buildings. This place is an industrial area and the walk is only there due to the hydro scheme and the shepherds for generations before them. It also immediately starts to reveal the depth of the gorge you are in – something you cannot really see as you drive up the road.
Spain - Basque and Picos 2022 by Matt, on Flickr
Overhead were a multitude of griffon vultures, a few black kites and a rarer Egyptian vulture.
Cares Gorge walk Picos de Europa by Matt, on Flickr
We spent about 40 minutes working hard uphill, enjoying the views and being drawn into long pauses to look at the stunning views.
However, all things are relative. As we topped the first rise the trail, gorge and mountain tops are laid out in all their wonder.
Cares Gorge walk Picos de Europa by Matt, on Flickr
Spot my wife and son on the overhanging rock.
Cares Gorge walk Picos de Europa by Matt, on Flickr

The hydro track you follow now gently undulates, and you swap vertical drops to the side for snug tunnels. Every corner has a new ‘oh wow’ moment.
Cares Gorge walk Picos de Europa by Matt, on Flickr
Spain - Basque and Picos 2022 by Matt, on Flickr

Many walkers coming the other way were struggling with some of the exposure, the path however is wide, safe and well maintained. It would take effort to fall.

In it’s deepest place this gorge is the full height of Ben Nevis – and nearly vertical for that height.
Spain - Basque and Picos 2022 by Matt, on Flickr
Cares Gorge walk Picos de Europa by Matt, on Flickr
Spain - Basque and Picos 2022 by Matt, on Flickr

History is rich with old shepherds houses and the more modern hydro workings.
Spain - Basque and Picos 2022 by Matt, on Flickr
Spain - Basque and Picos 2022 by Matt, on Flickr
We wandered along taking far to many photo’s and rueing not bringing the big camera on holiday….
Spain - Basque and Picos 2022 by Matt, on Flickr
As we entered the tunnel section and final bridge we decided to call things a day and wander back – still utterly taken by the views and precipices all around us. I think we had visual overload and slowed our picture taking to nearly none….!
Cares Gorge walk Picos de Europa by Matt, on Flickr


The walk back was enjoyable, and by now we were spotting more detail of chamois herds, resurgent caves and waterfalls, precipitous old paths and shepherds huts with an outside loo that redefines ‘long drop loo’….
Spain - Basque and Picos 2022 by Matt, on Flickr
Spain - Basque and Picos 2022 by Matt, on Flickr
Abruptly we found ourselves back on the road and realising we had tired feet – it is a hard path all the way.
Spain - Basque and Picos 2022 by Matt, on Flickr

We headed back into Cabrales for a celebratory coffee and churros to finish the day – and replaced my wifes ancient and worn walking shoes in one of the good outdoor shops.
Of course we also had a good childish giggle of the local town and river name.
Spain - Basque and Picos 2022 by Matt, on Flickr
 

[Alteknacker]

Stunning indeed! The precipitous cliffs remind me of the gorge above Nerja in Southern Spain, which I walked down a couple of times a decade or so ago.