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An unexpected gem of a half-day walk on a day with a very uncertain forecast, climbing over two little peaks on a cliff-edge looking spectacularly over the sea. Easy and enjoyable walking through quiet green valleys at either end of the morning, and - despite glowering clouds on a gusty wind - periodically terrific viewing conditions too.
From the lane north of Llanfihangel-y-Pennant, a clear track and then grassy path leads all the way up the col west of Cyfrwy and the high Cadair Idris range. There's a shorter alternative, with a decent-looking track cutting the corner from south of the Nant Hafotty up to the peaks - if in a hurry and definitely not continuing on to Cadair, you wouldn't lose too much by heading up this way, but the walk up the valley, especially beside the tumbling Afon Cadair on the lower slopes, is pleasant and quick going. Once on the top (where some very powerful gusts and a darkening sky in the distance put paid to thoughts of taking in Cadair Idris itself, this day at least...) and on the gentle climb to the summit of Craig-las, the views really open up of the mountains to the north and the sea to the west.
- Tyrrau Mawr
- Tarrenhendre over Afon Cadair valley
- Cyfrwy
- Afon Cadair valley
- Arenigs
- Barmouth over Llynau Cregennen from Craig-las
- Diffwys & Y Garn from Craig-las
- Craig-y-llyn from Craig-las
- Cyfrwy from Craig-las
- Tarrens from Craig-las
From here, the next peak of Craig-y-llyn, which seems an innocuous grassy lump from below, takes on its true character, with impressively steep cliffs to the right all along the ridge to the flat summit area. Quite a steep climb up beside the fence, but more great views as a reward - especially to Barmouth Bay and the Mawddach estuary, and the little lakes below to the west.
- Barmouth & Mawddach estuary over Llynau Cregennen & Bryn Brith
- Craig-y-llyn
- Cadair Idris
- Craig-las from Craig-y-llyn, Y Garn behind
- Mawddach estuary from Craig-y-llyn
- Rhinogydd from Craig-y-llyn
- Llyn Cyri from Craig-y-llyn
The next mile or so is the only slightly awkward part of this walk, with the descent to the cairn at Twyll yr Ogof being a little marshy, and then the drop to the farms in the Nant-caw valley being (despite what the map might have you believe) virtually pathless. Once in the close-cropped farmed fields, you can use the stiles ahead to guide you on, but it takes a bit of compass work to thrash through the short heathery patch before that. There's then just another easy mile back east beside the river to the starting point, and the memorial to Mary Jones "who, in the year 1800, walked from here to Bala... to procure a copy of the Welsh Bible". 25 miles each way by my reckoning, making this - really pretty simple and very pleasant - walk feel even more of an easy option...!
- Craig-las & Craig-y-llyn
- Rhinogydd over Llyn Cyri
- Diffwys ridge
- Nant-caw valley
- Birds' Rock
- Mary Jones memorial at walk start-point