Walkhighlands

A classic Lakes route with some fabulous views, probably better tackled without the interruption of a ferocious storm halfway round, but then isn’t everything...?

From the very busy tourist hub of Ambleside, the route up the eastern side of the Fairfield Horseshoe starts very pleasantly, through woods and moors with lovely views up Scandale and to Red Screes, and – as with most of the walk – back down to Windermere. The going over Low and High Pikes is surprisingly tough and awkward for such a popular walk though, steep in places and unpleasantly boggy for long stretches (it had been a very wet period, but much of the ground didn’t look like it would ever be anything else – there are even, novelly enough, signs warning of the very worst ‘Deep Bog’s).






The going eases considerably up to Dove Crag, still damp, but much easier in gradient and increasingly well-pathed. From there, with the broad lump of Fairfield starting to fill the eye, the character of the walk changes – rockier and more challenging, especially on the climb up to Hart Crag. The weather was also closing in though, with the forecast ‘brief shower’ becoming a long relentless, cold, and very windy storm – teeth-gritting stuff, and not the best way to see the highest summit of the walk. This was the only really deserted spot all day on a generally pleasant summer Sunday, but with the rain whipping across the featureless plateau and cloud blocking out what might have been great views of the Helvellyn range next door, perhaps unsurprisingly so...




Good paths lead you along the whole of the second, western half of the horseshoe. This is much the better side to walk, good paths and a much narrower, more defined ridge, giving good views on both sides, and Great Rigg – a nice pointed little rise giving the first view of Grasmere looking stunning in the sun below – is probably the best peak of the day.





From there, the route over the multiple tops of Heron Pike and Nab Scar is characterised by long drops interrupted by little climbs, with ever-improving view of the lakes and valleys ahead and the route walked behind. Some of the rocks on this path were pretty treacherously slippery this day, but then not everyone will be stupid enough to trust their footing so fully… goodbye to a much-used rucksack, and a slightly disturbing amount of blood, here…!





The descent from Nab Scar to Rydal, much as it is generally on a very well-made slab path, seems to defy logic – it's precipitously steep, and Nab Scar isn’t all that high a peak, so it should be over pretty quickly, yes? Well, it seems, knee-jarringly, to wend on forever… Eventually, it’s a relief to reach Rydal Hall and follow the easy flat path through the parklands for the last mile or so back. A really good walk, but perhaps a little more testing and wilder in places than you might expect.

Enjoyed your report and great photos

I've done Fairfield 3 times, twice the way you went and once starting at Nab Scar and much prefer doing the former! One August we had a snowstorm on Fairfield whilst the valley was bathed in sun and another time had to use the compass to find the right path for coming down. But thats one of the joys of walking; unpredictable weather

Nice report poppies, sorry to hear about your slip. I did more or less eactly the same route as yourself in reverse and can vouch for the steepness up to Low and High Pike.

Fairfield was freezing that day too so didn't hang about too long. It can be a very breezy summit.