Clogwyn y Person Arete - If Carlsberg did Scrambles!

[Alteknacker]

Great report! I absolutely agree with the consensus that anything that requires ropes because it's that dangerous (as opposed to because it's exposed and gives you the w*****s) has to be considered a climb.

I think you're right about the route being the key thing. Like others, I suspect that you didn't quite take the right route...

I did what I think was the Bilberry Terrace route on Y Lliwedd last year, and it took me 3 hours, mainly because I headed off in the wrong direction at least half a dozen times, and had to keep climbing back down (golden rule: I never climb up somewhere I might not be able to get down....).

That's the worst route I've done, basically because of the large amount of sopping wet grass and slimey algae-covered rock , in combination significant exposure. I vowed when I got to the top that I wouldn't do another North aspect wall again!!

I also got lost once on the South Buttress of Tryfan and had to climb down.

On the other hand, routes like the Chasm Face on the back of Glyder Fach, and the Knifion Arete seem to me to be eminently doable if you aren't too put off by exposure: plenty of good hand and food holds, but nonetheless quite challenging - just what you want and expect from a a Grade 3.

I have to say, though, that I found the Cuillin Ridge the most challenging route as a solo scrambling venture. Nothing has topped that yet for me (maybe I took the wrong routes.....)

[weezul]

Now that's a trip report!

Being Canadian, I go by this classification:
1. Hands in pockets walking on trails or easy cross country.
2. Rough cross country travel - hands might need to be extended for balance, boulder hopping, creek crossings etc.
3. Easy Scrambling - handholds are necessary for climbing.
4. More difficult scrambling/climbing - considerable exposure, ropes may be used.
5. Technical rock climbing.
6. Rock climbing with artificial aid.

where Class 5 breaks out further into the Yosemite Decimal System. There are countless systems, but what matters is that you understand which system is being used in a description! For example, I could get in trouble if a person says Class 3, but I didn't realize they were South African (that would equal 5.0 for me). And of course, being able to do YDS 5.9 in a climbing gym isn't the same as climbing outdoors...

[houdi]

I've actually been back to Snowdonia a couple of times since this report but haven't attempted this route again, mainly because the Horseshoe and Tryfan/Glyders are too tempting to ignore.
Did the chimney on Sgurr nan Gillean's west ridge and the 'bad step' on Am Bastier up and down. Found both very easy. Would love to do more of the Cuillin but Skye is such a long way from Devon. Have to admit that I trecked into the Cairngorms from Linn of Dee last year, and also biked into the Culra. I enjoyed both these days more than any Scrambles, so I guess my perspective of what is enjoyable has changed over the last couple of years.

[Alteknacker]

Hi Houdi!

Given the content of your last post on this, I imagine that scrambles are no longer of any great interest to you.

However, I just post this because, partly motivated by your report, I did the Parson's Nose and Clogwyn y Person Arete yesterday,
http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=43152
and now I'm completely certain you took a route way too far to the right, judging from your description of your experience and scrambling skills. The face to the right is full-on rock climbing, and if you did that, I'm really pleased that I read your report and not your obituary!!

I would describe the Parson's Nose as V Diff, mainly because of the shattered rock and the exposure; and what I saw of the standard Arete route as grade 2 scrambling. This isn't what you describe.

Actually there is a reasonably clear path up the Arete, and the route is really straightforward scrambling - so straightforward indeed that I didn't go for it, although I did frequently see it over to my left as I climbed up the Arete. There looked to be many possible route variations more or less in the middle of the Arete like the one I took, and generally they looked to me to be grade 2 - 3 scrambling.

I agree that the descriptions you read are not particularly helpful.

I try to stick to my dictum of being pretty careful not to upclimb something I won't be able to downclimb unless I'm completely sure I know the way ahead (though I've more than once misjudged the relative ease of the downclimb that I then had to do - way too much adrenalin!).

I must say, I had a wonderful morning on the Cloggie: the best possible mix of exertion, adrenalin (not too much!), and spectacular views. I hope you do try your old sport again (BTW I'm also a keen cyclist, so I do understand the attractions of this also: in fact I combined the 2 on a couple of straight line routes this year - best of both worlds!)

All the best

Alter Knacker