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Yates Mountain is the summit I failed to reach on my second walk in Canada in January this year, obviously that leaves a sour taste in the mouth and I really wanted to get back and reach the top. My initial turn back was a combination of the effects of altitude and a lack of the right equipment at the time. I am now just a few weeks shy of being fully acclimatised and I really noticed that during this hike.
The weather had been reporting snow for Kananaskis until it suddenly changed and began reporting sunny afternoons, that was enough to get me out (correctly equipped this time) and heading to Barrier Lake car park just off highway 40 South of the Trans-Canada Highway. Arriving at noon I wasted no time getting on to the trail which starts by crossing the dam at the Northern end of Barrier Lake.
looking South over the lake the sky is still trying to clear away the white snow clouds, the lake remains in the grip of the cold winter aided by the incredible wind that always seems to be blowing across here. I think the mountains funnel the wind through the Kananaskis valley and out across the lake...it certainly cools the ears as I walk
the first stage of the ascent is pretty straightforward following a well trodden trail up through the pine forest, micro-spikes are needed early on to deal with thick solid ice on the lower portion of the trail, as I ascend the trail becomes deep wet snow that makes walking much easier and the micro spikes are returned to the rucksack
I remember this stunning overview from my earlier hike as I emerge from the forest onto the lower edge of McConnell Ridge where the sun has worked its magic on the South facing slopes to provide a short section of clean ground
it is then a nice steady wander along the ridge toward the next step which I know to be difficult, the last time I came this way the scramble up here really took it out of me, but looking back that must have been more to do with altitude than over exertion
I enjoy the walk along the lower ridge and am in good spirits as I make the ascent through the deep snow toward the next step, the snow is thigh deep and hard work but mercifully short lived
after just a couple of hundred feet I'm closing in on the top when this helicopter goes by swinging a strange looking thing beneath it
on reaching the step I take a wander around enjoying the views from prairie on the left to mountains on the right, I love this 'end of the Rockies' area where a view in one direction shows endless mountains, whilst in the other direction endless prairies
further along the ridge the snow has melted away and the view back down to the lake is spectacular, the snow clouds still hanging around over the mountains whilst I'm bathed in sunlight
I have myself a good time wandering along the ridge taking in the views and resting from the steep snow covered ascent, looking back down I can see the white line that denotes the route I took to get here and the long three hump ascent through the forest beyond
after 10 minutes or so I turn my attention to the next section of ascent, its only an additional 450 feet or so but it is well covered in deep snow, but this time I have my snow shoes strapped to the rucksack and I'm determined to make it to the summit. I quickly get into them and recommence the ascent as the helicopter I saw earlier returns sans load
the ridge narrows and is a little dicey in places where thick trees cause me to drift out toward the cornice....poking with my walking poles as I go, the snowshoes definitely came into their own here
there is a false summit first which then levels out and it is a wonderful walk along here surrounded by spectacular views as I stride out really enjoying the day and less than 1km from my target
to my right and slightly behind is the open prairie and the winding Trans-Canada Highway just visible way below
to my left lies the Kananaskis valley and highway 40 heading off through the pass toward Kananaskis lakes
On the very summit is the fire lookout station, where I meet the Ranger, Pete, he came in by helicopter just a few minutes ago and is busy setting up home. He will live here now without leaving until the end of Autumn, his supplies are flown in, he has internet, TV etc all on solar power and battery storage. I spent almost an hour learning all about the surrounding mountains, the history of the area, plane and helicopter crashes etc. this guy has been doing this for 30 years, we stand out on his veranda with him smoking his pipe and running through a lifetime of anecdotes...it's a wonderful hour. Pete caps off my visit by giving me pride of place in the visitors book where I am the first signature for 2012, he says they have these books dating back to the 1940's stored so I'll be in good company for years to come.
from the end of the ridge I can see both the Bow and Kananaskis valleys, here the Bow valley stretching away into the Rockies, this is the route of the Trans-Canada Highway West to Lake Louise, Banff, Jasper and Vancouver ...it is a stunning highway
this photo looks down the Kananaskis valley, highway 40 can just be seen through the tall trees in the centre, it heads South right through the heart of Kananaskis country until joining another highway and running to the Canada/USA border
stepping back a little it is possible to squeeze in both valleys and Petes fancy wind-sock. The Bow valley is on the right, the Kananaskis valley on the far left just beside the two fir tress
looking directly across the Trans-Canada Highway with the Bow valley on the left, the sheer face of Mt Yamnuska on the right and the triple points of Door Jamb Mountain just right of the wind-sock, it is an incredibly beautiful location no matter where you look
Pete shows me the strange thing that was dangling under the helicopter, it was one of his gas bottles for cooking, the wooden square beyond is the heli-pad
whilst talking Pete noticed smoke on the horizon and took a bearing within just a few seconds before getting on the radio to his control, minutes later a helicopter buzzed off into the distance before reporting back that it was a controlled burn on farmland, still a very impressive response.
I could have stayed up here for days but thought I had better set off down again, after all I didn't start until noon and I had plans to make a circuit via Jewel Pass and didn't know how long that would take. I had one last cuppa with Pete and set off reluctently down this beautiful mountain toward the upper section of McConnell Ridge where I hoped to pick up the path
after the very steep snow covered descent I took a bearing to where the path was shown on the map and set off down the snow free South facing slopes, my intended route is down through the forest circling the tree covered peak directly ahead
sure enough, after bounding down the slope and through the forest for a short distance I pick up Jewel Pass, the trail has been used which makes easy walking on the frozen surface
as I circle the peak and turn toward highway 40 I get a stunning view along the Kananaskis valley, it is certainly worth making the circuit as I also passed through a deep gorge with steep sides and a number of what would be waterfalls (when thawed) along the way.
I finally emerge at Barrier Lake with the moon smiling down on me from one side and the sun doing the same from the other, across the way the North face of Mt Baldy looks stunning in the evening light
the trail now turns to a good gravel track under the pylons and after texting Sarah to let her know I was OK, the last couple of miles is a nice lazy wander along the lake
I stopped about half way or so and finished my flask and finally ate my pasta salad that I'd carried throughout the hike. From here it was a gentle wander on good ground soaking up the beauty of the Rockies and recognising my good fortune to be here.