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I peered through the windshield, clinging grimly to the wheel as the Lion Inn materialised out of the mist only for it to disappear just as quickly into the rain lashed gloom. The sighting of this famous hostelry signified my destination was imminent, and sure enough the puddle strewn parking area was arrived at shortly afterwards.
Unsurprisingly there were no other cars present as I turned off the engine, killing the radio and leaving no other sounds but the lashing rain on the roof and the excited whining from Hughie in the back seat. I pointed out to my canine companion that walking today might not be the best idea in the world but being a dog he either didn’t understand or didn’t care.
Ten hurried minutes later I was clad in waterproofs as we set off boldly into the mist, wind and rain. Within seconds the road seemed a distant memory and the route of the former Rosedale railway was reached.
For the next hour or so my horizons were reduced to my immediate environs as I made my way along the long since disused line. It was amazingly atmospheric and all too easy to imagine a steam locomotive making its torturous journey through cuttings and over dramatic embankments as the line makes its way around the head of the dale.
By the time I arrived at the dramatic Reeking Gill the rain had stopped (even if the mist was as dense as ever).so I decided to get my camera out of my backpack in a moment of rash optimism. I trudged onwards past the enticing sign inviting a visit to the Dale Head Farm tea room to be rewarded by the mist starting to lift as I caught sight of the green fields in the valley.
- Reeking Gill
- It was a bit wet
- Mist lifting to reveal green fields
A little further on shafts of sunlight began illuminating patches of farm land and by the time I reached the first of the crumbling mine ruins an amazing transformation was underway with increasingly wide slashes of sunshine creeping across the dale.
- A shaft of sunlight breaks through the clouds
- Rosedale Black house
- View to the mines
I wandered through the remains of the former Ironstone mines, finally slowing my pace to take in the evocative ruins. It’s over eighty years since the mine closed and nature has reclaimed this site to the point it’s almost beautiful. The smoke, noise and bustle that would have characterised this site back in the day have been replaced by chattering charms of goldfinch, scampering rabbits and the ever watchful sheep of the moors. It would have been easy to linger for longer but as I still had a fair way to go I bid farewell and marched on to the end of the line.
- Miners houses
- Workshops
- Houses from the workshop
- North 'iron' kilns
- Looking back to swathes of sunshine
- South 'stone' kilns
- more kilns
- and again
- Looking North
It was obvious given the number of cars I passed parked around the old goods shed that many rich folk had paid many pounds to blast grouse out of the sky. One industry replacing another I suppose.
I made my way down to Rosedale Abbey bathed in bright sunshine along small country lanes. I’m not a fan of road walking but there are times, particularly when walking with a dog it’s your only option in the Moors.
- Climbing out of the dale
- Looking down to Rosedale Abbey
- The Rosedale Chimney road catches the sunshine
After a largely tedious couple of miles (made worse by a huffed Hughie dragging on the lead, he doesn’t like roads either) we made it to the path up to Bank Top. It was good to be back to proper walking even if the several hours of heavy morning rain had left sections of ankle deep mud to negotiate. With the gain in height came improving views and by the time the route of the rail line was reached I was treated to a glorious panorama of the whole dale, seeing much of the route clearly for the first time.
- Looking across to the mines
- View of lower Rosedale
- And the view of upper Rosedale
Click on the link for a panoramic shot of Rosedale
http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnkaysleftleg/8103757856/sizes/k/in/photostream/The only time I really paused on the simple walk back to the car was at a bench erected as a tribute to the miners of Rosedale. One of the inscriptions read “Work shift over, in the sun, on the hill, having fun”, I don’t know who wrote this but I’m not sure they grasped the realities of life as a miner around a hundred years ago.
The walk around Rosedale had proved a very worthy outing filled with atmosphere and interest. This quiet dale bares the scars of its past remarkably well, in fact it could be said they enhance it, adding a uniqueness that makes it special.
To find out more about the Rosedale mines and railway try the following link.
http://www.subbrit.org.uk/sb-sites/sites/r/rosedale/index.shtml