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Surya Peak 5145mScrambling, path finding and a sense of real mountain climbing awaits you when you decide to climb up Surya peak. Do not attempt this hill if you are unfit, unknowable (if you are without a proper guide) or struggling with altitude sickness.
- Me with Surya peak (the middle one) the evening before the climb
I had only seen this mountain on the map and the thought to climb over 5000m was something which really appeared to me. I do trust my mountain knowledge in Scotland, but as mountain climbing in the Himalayas are beyond my wisdom (or so I thought), I had trusted my guide to show me the way.
We set off at 8:30am. We, that was my guide Boras, my new friend Artur and myself. Late for the local standards (the guides like to set off before sunrise), but I needed a good nights sleep,
as a hard day would lie ahead. The sun was shining and the outside temperate was just above 0 C. I had watched my guide the night before, having a heated conversation with the locals at the guesthouse when he had asked how to get up the peak. Even though I did not understand a word, the length and loudness had worried me a bit, as I had hoped my guide knew the peak from experience, but then I trusted my guide to know the way the next morning…how hard could it really be?
The problem about the Himalayas is the fact that you get hardly any proper maps…OS maps are a distant dream and Surya peak (even though it was on my basic trekking map) had not shown any sign of a path or useful contour lines.
- The map from the area - the red line shows the way you have to take.
With sunshine casting shadows on the mountains around us, the first part of the walk followed the wide path pass Gosaikunda towards Lauribina pass. I had assumed we would walk up to the pass and start climbing the mountain but I was wrong. After a short time on the path, my guide pointed up to the left and said we would have to start climbing up the first slope. Not a path in site and all what I could think was ‘Great’ this guy is adventurous. There was no indication of a path only a few random thrown in cairns at the start (god knows what for) ,as they disappeared after a while, or were simply lost between the endless fields of rocks in front of you.
- The start of the walk
The walk up was hard going and the altitude left me breathless. On a positive note my headaches I had in Langtang were completely gone and being out of breath and having to stop every 10 min (due to my guide being mega fit and walking fast), seemed ok in comparison.
We reached the top of the first small hill we had climbed and looked around. In the distance I noticed a few peaks and in front of it were endless fields of scree, so much that the loose scree fanclub must hold their annual meeting right there. Looking towards them was confusing because there was no indication which one was supposed to be the right peak.
The distance also was hard to guess as the rocks in from had sizes from small pebbles to car size boulders. But my guide quite confident pointed to one of the peaks to the left and so we moved on.
- You can see how confusing it is to find the right peak...my guide wanted us to climb the one to the right of Surya peak.
The walk was getting harder as we had to cross fields of boulders and the path kept on going up. The countryside was however stunning. The plants I encountered were also some of the most unusual. I particular likes the ones which looked like little Christmas trees, or the ones which reminded me about big balls of cotton when you touched them.
- The fluffy cotton soft plants
- Dont they look like little snow covered christmas trees?
About an hour had passed when 3 of the main peaks came into better view. Asking again for directions, my guide told me again it is the left one and by that time we had to pass a difficult boulder field. Scrambling over the rocks we all made our own way and I soon lost contact with Artur and Boras. Not really bothered (as I knew were to go) I moved on alone keeping more to the right.
I am not sure why I did not follow them (they followed a different path to the left) ,but something inside me took over and I continued up the mountain alone. It was great, as I found my rhythm and continued without having to stop all the time. The mountain finally started to rise steeper and soon I was scrambling, crossing big patches of snow and feeling utterly happy. I looked around a few times and did not managed to see the others at all, but knowing they were together gave me piece of mind.
Suddenly the peak came into view and I took a quick video before moving on. After another short while the mountain side in front of me spread out and I realized that I was on the wrong way. The peak my guide had pointed out was to the far left by now and it became clear why my guide had chosen another way.
- The peak is coming closer...this shows the route I took.
I stopped to consider, but as I was so close to the to top I decided to climb it regardless and then worry were the others were. I was also utterly annoyed with myself, but the whole climb had felt so right and usually I was able to trust my judgement.
That worry to find the others was soon over, as I looked up and saw my guide waving wildly to my right. I guessed they had changed direction in order to find me again…bless them!
I waved back and became aware that he wanted me to come over to him…(needless to say my climb up was the steepest possible), but if you know me you will know that this is just the way I love to climb up mountains. Obviously I ignored the suggestion to walk the long path over to him and flapping my arms around me (looking probably more like someone who wants to land a plane than anything else) I pointed that I would continue my mad way up.
When I finally caught up with them I expected abuse, for walking up the wrong mountain, but my guide simply laughed (probably released to have found me again) and did not utter a word about it. Nepalese people are great!
By the time the prayer flags came into view I was shattered but happy- we had made it and reaching the top my eyes fell onto a sign which read Surya Peak 5145. Gosaikund Nepal. I literally could not believe it. My inner voices had not failed me and lead me up the right way. I was so please with myself and when I asked my guide why he thought the left peak was the top, he told me that he had only climbed it once in deep snow many years ago and had not remembered the path (understandable).
- To my left you can see the Annapurna mountains
- At 5145m
- The Gosaikund lakes
Looking around the views were stunning and most incredibly was the fact, that we were alone. No other hiker was seen and it was utterly peaceful. We had the little food we brought along (biscuits, Mars bars and dried noodles) and by the time it was time to go my guide suggested to return the way we came.
By that time my faith in my mountain knowledge ( or inner voice) had been restored and I disagreed with him. I had looked around and had seen something which resembled a path down a scree slope. It would make a nice round and looked doable. I pointed the route out to him and Artur and they were quick to agree and so we made our way down.
- The way back down
The path was long and a killer for knees. Rockfall was a constant danger and made it impossible to walk behind each other, in case we would start a stone avalanche. It seemed to take forever, but with taking great care we managed it down in one piece and got back to the tea house, very tired but happy, 6.5 h after setting off in the morning.
Video and pictures
