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Fra li Monti from S to N The GR20.

Fra li Monti from S to N The GR20.


Postby gaffr » Fri Jun 28, 2013 7:20 am

Date walked: 18/06/2013

Distance: 200 km

Ascent: 12500m

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For my visit to Corsica this year I tried a different travel arrangement by going by evening bus to Glasgow then on overnight to Manchester airport. Surely the most organised airport, well, of any that I have come across...Bus station connected, a metro system soon to be in place and normal rail tracks right into the heart of the complex and overhead tube to get you into where the check in area is.
Sunday is a difficult day to arrive in Corse with little or no transport running in early June. Tried to 'tap' those on the flight who were hiring motors at the airport but no success. Walked out to the old road...there is now a motorway sweeping through the lands west of Poretta airport....and set up my hitching stall just above the junction with the turn for Ponte Leccia and Corte. A kind Frenchman with a Mercedes who was going down to Moriani to visit friends dropped me off at the village. Camped here by the sea and got the bus down to St.Lucie de Porto Vecchio and then up to Conca on the monday morning.
1 the terrace camping at Conca HPIM6520 (640x478).jpg
There is a good gite and camping available at Gite d'Etape La Tonnelle in Conca.
2 bocca d'Usciolu HPIM6525 (640x582).jpg
This is the gateway to the the hills and where the village and the world is left behind for a bit.....with eurolanders clean and happy at just under a hour into the15-16 days of effort.
3 Punta l'Anima Damnata HPIM6535 (640x482).jpg
A beautiful wee peak a stones throw from the first refuge/camping at Paliri. Punta di l'Anima Damnata...The damned soul.
4 Monte Alcudina HPIM6545 (640x482).jpg
The first of the 2000mtr. tops above Asinau refuge. The power walkers were in some trouble with their feet.
4g HPIM6561 (640x482).jpg
It is always a wonder how vegetation survives in the harshness of the terrain.
5 the supply chain to d'Usciolu refuge from Cozzano HPIM6563 (640x482).jpg
Waste and rubbish down and fresh supplies brought up from Cozzano by these fine animals.
5a breakfast at l'Onda HPIM6601 (640x482).jpg
L'Onda bergerie is still a working transhumance farm at 1431mtrs. Milking sheep and goats for the cheese making as well as supplying food and accommodation for folks on holiday.
5c   Vizzavona up towards l'Onda HPIM6589 - Copy (640x482).jpg
Some fine rock terrain on the way up to the high point before going down to l'Onda
5c Up towards  Muratello HPIM6591 (640x482).jpg
Approach from Vizzavona to the high point above l'Onda refuge.
5a breakfast at l'Onda HPIM6601 (640x482).jpg[/attachment]
5c sheep milking at l'Onda HPIM6600 (640x482).jpg
Milk from the sheep for the famous Corsican cheeses....Brocciu.
6  snowfield above Petra Piana HPIM6622 (640x482).jpg
Quite a few snowfields to cross over this year. This one above Petra Piana.
6 snowfield above Petra Piana HPIM6622 (640x482).jpg[/attachment]
6a approaching bocca Renosa HPIM6625 (640x482).jpg
For me the finest section of the traverse....quite alpine in June this year.
7 breche de capitellu HPIM6626 (640x482).jpg
The breche de Capitellu is wrongly marked on some of the French maps and wrongly described in many of the guide books....I see now that the PNRC folks have labelled what I call the 'Corte gully' correctly now.
8a  from the bocca alla Punta HPIM6631 (640x482).jpg
The correct high point of the route is the Bocca alle Porte which gives access down to the Manganu refuge. Image shows a guide shepherding a group of young folks up to the bocca.
9 Ciottulu di a Mori HPIM6660 (640x482).jpg
Ciottulu di a Mori the highest placed refuge on the traverse.
9 Ciottulu di a Mori HPIM6660 (640x482).jpg[/attachment]
10 in the depths of the cirque of solitude HPIM6665 (640x482).jpg
Down in the depths of the cirque of solitude. Depending on which way you travel you descend from one side of the Cirque, cross the floor of the cirque, then re-ascend the other side to reagain the high ground.
12 the most sought after drink on a hot dayHPIM6584 (640x482).jpg
On the hot days you spend much time thinking about such places. This fine wee source is on the descent from Bocca Palmento to Vizzavona when travelling from the south.
14 the final descent to Calenzana HPIM6683 (640x481).jpg
The young eurolanders starting to rev. up at the sight of the sea and the pleasures that await in Calvi.
Attachments
8b The descent from bocca alle Porta HPIM6632 - Copy (640x482).jpg
The descent from the highest section down towards refuge Manganu.
5d Petra Piana refuge  seen form the Crete HPIM6618 - Copy (640x482).jpg
The fine position of Petra Piana refuge seen from the crete.
5b U Renosu gite HPIM6580 - Copy (640x481).jpg
The old ski station at Renosa above Capanelle now being used as a welcoming gite.
Last edited by gaffr on Thu Feb 06, 2014 12:27 pm, edited 6 times in total.
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gaffr
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Re: The Fra li Monti from South to North.

Postby SusieThePensioner » Wed Jul 03, 2013 8:53 pm

Wow! Some wonderful photos and what a great place :thumbup:
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Re: The Fra li Monti from South to North.

Postby raykilhams » Thu Jul 04, 2013 4:57 pm

Hi Gaffr,
Now that's what I call a walk , only done a few short walks in Corse but hope to get out there for some longer ones , you report has whetted my appetite , great pics. :clap: :clap:
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Re: The Fra li Monti from South to North.

Postby gaffr » Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:49 pm

When I retired six years ago I discovered Corsica and the many multi-day walks that can be done within a visit whether it be for a week, two weeks or three for the higher level route, leaving a bit at the end for a splash around the coast. On the route in the trip report you can stay above 900 metres for the duration usually if carrying camping kit for 15-16 days depending on the choice of overnight stops. The landscapes on the island are very fine....I would guess that many will have seen some of these on the televised first three stages of 'le tour' on the island.
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Re: The Fra li Monti from South to North.

Postby bootsandpaddles » Fri Jul 05, 2013 4:10 pm

Brings back happy memories of our trip to Corsica last year. We were there in June but you look to have had a lot more snow than we did.
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Re: The Fra li Monti from South to North.

Postby gaffr » Sat Jul 06, 2013 8:36 am

Yes BootsandPaddles a very different June this year. I had been a couple of times during June previously to the island and had never had these conditions. I deliberately began my journey at the southern end to let things in the north settle down a bit. Even after ten days or so after leaving Conca the section between Petra Piana and Manganu still had big snowfields remaining necessitating the summer walking guides to have the High Mountain guides to be in attendance to assist with the journey around the high section of the route......well at least this was the case with one Corsican summer guide whom I came across and spoke to at the Bocca a Soglia.
The mini buses, to get folks who didn't fancy going into the cirque, were running from Haut Ascu to Calasima and in reverse for those coming from the south, were still operating when I arrived at Vallone a couple of days later.
MInor problems for those with overnight bookings, paid for in advance, at refuge Tighjettu. With folks arriving from the south staying overnight at the refuge then descending the next day to walk down to Calasima to engage with the bus......those coming by bus from the north again walked uphill to Tighjettu then descending next morning to continue the journey south. So I guess that the refuge didn't have such a lean June after all! anyhow the guardien there seemed quite jolly when I stopped off there for a morning coffee on my way northwards. Two guides at the refuge were engaging and organising their clients of the day for the journey through the cirque.
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Re: The Fra li Monti from South to North.

Postby AbbsFooty » Wed Oct 23, 2013 7:26 am

Some great photos you have there! What a walk! Thanks for sharing :D
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