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A long, testing walk through the wild moors on the western edge of the Dales.
Uldale, high in the hills, quiet and coniferous, feels quite unlike Yorkshire, and the walking too is far away from that of the 3 Peak and Wharfe hotspots. There seemed to be nothing resembling a path on the straight upward tramp towards Wild Boar Fell, but it’s never steep enough, or the long wiry grass rough or wet enough, to offer much hindrance as you grind steadily on. The deep curves of the Howgills hold the eye much of the way, with the ground ahead unvaryingly green and gentle, and it’s a relief to reach the shores of Sand Tarn, attractively set against the short rocky upper slopes, and something new to look at.
- The Howgills over Fell End
- North over Sand Tarn
- ...and from above, towards Ravenstonedale
A 5 minute scramble up the only steep ground of the day puts you onto the big flat summit plateau of Wild Boar Fell – definitely worth heading over to the eastern edge to see the more dramatically scarped side of the hill plunging down to Mallerstang, and the army of cairns on Yoadcomb Scar. This side, if not linking to Baugh Fell, looks a much better approach.
- High Seat and Mallerstang Edge
- Yoadcomb Scar
- Little Fell, Great Shunner Fell behind
- Cairns on Yoadcomb Scar
A nice up and down, on the only path of the day populated by the only other people of the day, leads to the fine stony little peak of Swarth Fell on the edge of the valley.
- Swarth Fell
- Howgills
- Swarth Fell summit
- Wild Boar Fell from Swarth Fell
Attempts to link more than one Dales hill tend to involve going back down to valley level, and this was no exception – the vast ‘squashed pudding’ dome of Baugh Fell looked a long way away too. Slog down by the wall over Holmes Moss, much of which quakes disconcertingly beneath the feet even after a dry spell, to Rawthey Gill and you can start to follow the tumbling stream upwards. This is attractive and initially pleasant, but the gill is narrow and steep-sided in places and pretty difficult to navigate along; eventually you probably just have to clamber out and settle for the long upward plod. This is wild country and I found myself wondering at times when anyone had last trod this grass, if ever they had… But head for the high ground and follow the compass a bit more closely than I did and you’ll eventually get through the marshes to the summit wall in about the right place.
- On Holmes Moss Hill
- Rawthey Gill
- Knoutberry Haw summit
The top of Baugh Fell, and much of the descent route, is a bleak land of tough tussocky grass and dark flat little tarns; probably one of those ‘once-only’ hills, and a relief to get down to Uldale. Wild Boar and Swarth Fells from the east looks a fine little walk – this way is a rather less fine big one…
- Swarth Fell from Black Hill
- West Baugh Fell Tarn, Wild Boar Fell behind
- Northern Howgills, Harter Fell prominent