free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
with a planned trip to the eiger cancelled, we instead headed for chamonix , a well known base for alpine adventures. poor weather on the first day saw us walk from chamonix northward up the well signed path to le brevant 2525 metres. we watched a jazz concert at the planpraz cable station before walking back down to the village. next day we were waiting at 6am for the first cable car to the aiguille di midi only for it to be cancelled due to poor weather forcast !! there was a weather window for the next morning, so we headed up to the aiguille du midi station 3842 metres, got kitted up in the ice tunnel and setted off in thick clag down the narrow snow arete and headed for the cosmiques hut. the hut sits at 3613 metres, diner, bed and breakfast was 65 euro, bed and breakfast was 42 euro. there was no discount for our austrian alpine club cards !! we opted for the b&b option, our alarms set for 5am, breakfast pretty basic, cup of coffe and some bread and jam.
the start of the cosmique arete is about 200 metres from the hut, we left the hut at 6am eager to beet the rush from the first cable car from chamonix.
- billy at the start of the route
the climb is graded alpine 4a ( crux 4c ) and is a good introduction to alpine mixed climbing. you start by ascending a few snow ramps.
- 1st snow ramp
we short roped most of the ridge, only pitching the crux.
- 2nd snow ramp
we followed the ridge to a summit and traversed around it, down climbed a little and then made 2 abseils to the bottom of a tower.
- view to the grandes jorasses
- view ahead
we climbed a few chimneys and ledges
- rock step
round a second tower, a few twists and turns before reaching the crux. billy led the crux which was well protected.
- billy on the crux
we continued upwards along more ledges and chimneys.
- powder snow in the chimneys
you eventually come over a little lip right opposite a viewing platform of the aiguille du midi station.
- spectators on the viewing platform
and ascend a ladder to the station.
- an aide finish
a fine end to what was a fantastic climb, we took 3 hours , but we started early and were the second team on the ridge so we wern,t held up.
- happy chaps
we watched a couple of teams come up behind us and it does look impresive.
- couple coming up
we moved to another viewing platform and had a nice view back down the ridge. had a wonderful view over to mount blanc and its fully loaded north east ridge. the accent of mount blanc fro the col du midi goes up the snow on the right hand side of the triangular rock, i wouldnt go near it in this condition but it does look spectacular.
- view down the ridge
we headed back down the cable car before the weather worsened and planned our next outing, which was to be mount blanc.