Carlin Gill and the Western Howgills

[johnkaysleftleg]

A rare totally free day off in July saw me and my faithful canine companion, Hughie the westie head for the Howgills once again. One place in these hills my wanderings had not taken me was Carling Gill, the home to the other major waterfalls in these hills, Black Force and The Spout. This is not really a regularly visited place, at least the grass growing on the road would suggest so Unsurprisingly I parked up near Carlin Bridge alone on a lovely morning.

The initial walk in along the wide lower reaches of the Gill is an easy stroll but it's worth noting the rare geology that has given rise to several different levels of flood plain over the last 10,000 years or so..

Carlin Beck by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

Now Alfred Wainwright wrote some of the finest guide books about the hills of Northern Britain that have ever been committed to paper including one detailing the Howgills. His walk description of a journey up Carlin Gill is somewhat flawed however as he suggests entering the wooded gorge and continuing along the bed of the beck. This would be a mistake however as several online reports tell stories of desperate struggles ending with a very unpleasant scramble up lose slopes to escape from the gorge. This can be avoided by simply crossing to the North bank before the gorge and finding a grassy path that rises gently and traverses easily above all the difficulties.

The start of the wooded ravine by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

Black Force comes into view far sooner than you expect as it looms up to your right in impressive fashion. I decided to continue to the head of the gill to have a look at The Spout which necessitated re-crossing the beck and a bit of occasional clambering but was simple enough. The scrambling route up the left of the falls was quite obvious but as it looked steep and not at all dog friendly me and Hughie retreated back to Black Force.
The route up the side of Black Force has been described as a scramble but I fail to see why as it offers no difficulties other than extreme steepness. So steep in fact that around half way up when I looked across to the even steeper Black Force screes the effect was very disorientating
Eventually the route becomes a narrow exposed arete above the gorge but with a great view of the fantastic folded bedrock that makes up these hills.

Black Force by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

The Spout by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

Black Force Screes by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

Folded Rocks by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

Carlin Gill from the top of Black Force by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

Following a rest to get my breath back I found the traverse path around Blake Ridge to the minor top of Linghaw which gives a great view of the M6 winding away Southwards. I'm not a fan of looking at motorways but when you are on top of a hill watching the rat race below it's a great feeling
From here it was a fair upward trudge to get to the high point of the day, the Hewitt of Fell Head. It was on this section that I saw the only other walker of the day and the first other walker I've seen on mid-week visits to the Howgills. Me and Hughie had a bit of lunch and set off on the long and easy decent towards Simon's Seat.
The climb to the top of Simon's Seat is a typical steep grassy pull to a tiny cairn on a wide flat top. There was a nice breeze so I sat for quite a while watching the dappled sunshine bring out the contours of the velvety hills around me.

The M6 from Linghaw by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

Fell End by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

On the way to Simon's Seat by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

Churn Gill by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

West Grain by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

The Calf from Simon's Seat by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

Following a consultation with the map I decided to descend to the col and traverse around Wethercalf Moss and climb up to Docker Knott. This was fine in theory but for once the Howgills firm smooth grassy slopes let me down and I found myself wading through long grass masking uneven ground. Following some swearing and slipping down holes I made it to the minor top of Docker Kott to be confronted with a longer than expected descent to Blakethwaite Bottom.

Blakethwaite Bottom from Docker Knott by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

A long easy descent followed to the remarkable isolated pasture of Blakethwaite Bottom, Standing here you are totally surrounded by hills on all sides and feel cut off from the world almost totally. I began the final climb of the day up Uldale head which was slow and hot going. Once I was close to the top I took a detour off to view Black Force from the top of the Screes before making my way to the summit.

Black Force from the Top of the Screes by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

Carlin Gill from Uldale Head by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

Uldale Head by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

I was fairly worn out by the time I reached the summit so it was a relief that the way down was easy, helped greatly by finding a trod though the worrying sea of bracken. This was another memorable day in the Howgill Fells visiting some places I would highly recommend, but don't all rush at once or you'll spoil it.

Fell Ponys by johnkaysleftleg, on Flickr

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[malky_c]

Funnily enough I was looking up at these hills from the train yesterday, most likely while you were up them . Never been walking in the Howgills but it has been my intention at some point. Nice looking waterfalls.

[Broggy1]

Good report.

I did Fell Head via this route last year and found myself on the right hand side of the gorge before Black Force.

As you mentioned it's loose and a scramble and with a fair deal of exposure above the gorge. I did eventually work my across it using hands and legs only to see the easy path you mentioned on the left. A nervous few minutes I'll tell you....

I do agree though that the walk up the side of Black Force isn't a scramble - just steep.

Enjoyed this - thanks.

[simon-b]

The Howgills serve to remind us just how many beautiful places there are in the north of England for a hill walker. Add to that the fact we're not too far away from Scotland and North Wales either, and it isn't a bad place to live, is it?

Anthony, your mention of the Howgills, the M6 and A. Wainwright in this report raise an interesting point about him. He appeared more resistant to change when he wrote the Lakeland Pictorial Guides, particularly regarding road 'improvements'. By the time he wrote the Howgills guide, he might not have openly sung the praises of the M6's construction, but he did recognise it as bringing the range to the attention of more people, something he felt the Howgills deserved. Could AW actually have become less conservative and stubborn as he got older? Or perhaps it's because he travelled around the Lake District by bus, whereas Betty, his second wife, would drive him by car to his walking start points in his later years.

[johnkaysleftleg]

Funnily enough I was looking up at these hills from the train yesterday, most likely while you were up them . Never been walking in the Howgills but it has been my intention at some point. Nice looking waterfalls.

Carlin Gill would be a great place to start a long route in the Howgills. I'm sure you'll get around to it someday and not be disappointed.

Good report.

I did Fell Head via this route last year and found myself on the right hand side of the gorge before Black Force.

As you mentioned it's loose and a scramble and with a fair deal of exposure above the gorge. I did eventually work my across it using hands and legs only to see the easy path you mentioned on the left. A nervous few minutes I'll tell you....

I do agree though that the walk up the side of Black Force isn't a scramble - just steep.

Enjoyed this - thanks.

Your Welcome. It was stories like your journey up Carlin Gill that made me do a bit research. Given I had the dog with me I really didn't fancy getting into a dodgy situation.

The Howgills serve to remind us just how many beautiful places there are in the north of England for a hill walker. Add to that the fact we're not too far away from Scotland and North Wales either, and it isn't a bad place to live, is it?

Anthony, your mention of the Howgills, the M6 and A. Wainwright in this report raise an interesting point about him. He appeared more resistant to change when he wrote the Lakeland Pictorial Guides, particularly regarding road 'improvements'. By the time he wrote the Howgills guide, he might not have openly sung the praises of the M6's construction, but he did recognise it as bringing the range to the attention of more people, something he felt the Howgills deserved. Could AW actually have become less conservative and stubborn as he got older? Or perhaps it's because he travelled around the Lake District by bus, whereas Betty, his second wife, would drive him by car to his walking start points in his later years.

I do indeed have a soft spot for the Howgills and feel fortunate to live in the North. I have about 7 National Parks/AONB within 2 hours drive, can't be bad
I think AWs attitude to roads did indeed soften given the fact he was driven around Scotland by Betty for just about every holiday they had together, without the road network he'd have never seen half as much.

[colgregg]

A good walk Fell end is a lovely summit. I was looking to do Simon's seat from the North in the future. Glad to see I'm not the only one who curses when losing ones footing.!! I seem to do it so much nowadays I'm beginning to sound like a 3 year old toddler in an Icebucket challenge!!!

[johnkaysleftleg]

A good walk Fell end is a lovely summit. I was looking to do Simon's seat from the North in the future. Glad to see I'm not the only one who curses when losing ones footing.!! I seem to do it so much nowadays I'm beginning to sound like a 3 year old toddler in an Icebucket challenge!!!

I agree with your views on Fell End, this is a great way to the summit as well. At least midweek in the Howgills only the sheep can here you swearing