Back to Great End for Cust's
Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 10:12 pmIt just had to be done. Last time Karl and me went up Great End (14th Feb - see previous TR) we scrambled tentatively up an extremely lean and icy Skew Gill; we had intended to continue via Cust's Gully, but decided there wasn't enough snow and what snow there was wasn't consolidated enough. Excuses, excuses! We knew we'd have to come back to do Cust's before the winter was out.
It wasn't until Saturday, 5th March that we were both free to give it a go. Luckily, the forecast was reasonable and several snowfalls over a period of low temperatures promised potential for good condtions for snow climbing. So we met at our usual meeting place and piled into one car for the drive to Seathwaite, arriving at about 9.30.
The tops were in cloud but there was some blue sky and it looked as if it might clear; the forecast was for improvement in the afternoon, and there was little wind, so things were quite encouraging as we set off through the farm and up the path to Stockly Bridge (again). This time we went up the Grains Gill path to get directly to the northern face of Great End. The clag began to lift off Allen Crags.
But when we got our first view of Great End higher up we were disappointed to see the cloud lurking persistently on it.
We made our way straight up to the bottom of Central Gully where we met another group who were contemplating doing that climb, but were undecided. The new snow was rather soft and might have posed an avalanche threat from above the amphitheatre. We went rightwards under the cliffs towards the start of Cust's, stopping at a suitable spot to get out an axe each (we had two each, just in case) and put on crampons. While we were doing this the other party, who were already geared up, had decided not to do Central but go for Cust's instead, so they came past us.
By the time we were ready to go the others had disappeared above us. The snow was soft but compacted easily and formed good steps. Into the clag now, we caught up with the others at the foot of the gully proper.
Entering between the vertical walls of the gully (a wonderfully atmospheric place), it was a straightforward plod up soft snow to begin with, axe shafts driven in for security.
The famous chockstone, wedged into the top of the gully walls, loomed above.
The party ahead of us stopped underneath the chockstone, taking their rucksacks off to access their second ice axes; there was an obvious steepening of the snow above them. We followed suit.
When we arrived under the chockstone we were pleased to find that the steeper stuff was good, solid snow-ice. The picks of the axes drove in securely and front points of crampons bit nicely. Very satisfying stuff!
At the top was a final steepening over a semi-cornice - almost vertical, but with such solid axe placements it was no problem.
Emerging from the gully onto the summit slopes, visibility was very poor, but we weren't complaining.
It didn't look as if the mist was going to clear any time soon and in these whiteout conditions there wasn't much point in extending our walk on to the Pike, so we took a bearing for the col above Calf Cove and headed for Esk Hause. The weather wasn't getting any better!
We managed to locate the cross-walls shelter and stopped for a nice long lunch. We decided to return via Sty Head just to vary the walk a bit. As we set off, visibility was appalling.
At Sprinkling Tarn the clag began to clear at last.
It would have been nice to have bagged the Hewitts Ill Crag and Broad Crag, which I've been meaning to do for some time, but with the visibility as it was it would have been difficult to locate the exact summits. We were quite happy to have found Cust's in really good nick. It had been a most enjoyable climb; not difficult, but very satisfying.
It wasn't until Saturday, 5th March that we were both free to give it a go. Luckily, the forecast was reasonable and several snowfalls over a period of low temperatures promised potential for good condtions for snow climbing. So we met at our usual meeting place and piled into one car for the drive to Seathwaite, arriving at about 9.30.
The tops were in cloud but there was some blue sky and it looked as if it might clear; the forecast was for improvement in the afternoon, and there was little wind, so things were quite encouraging as we set off through the farm and up the path to Stockly Bridge (again). This time we went up the Grains Gill path to get directly to the northern face of Great End. The clag began to lift off Allen Crags.
- The path up Grains Gill, Allen Crags above
But when we got our first view of Great End higher up we were disappointed to see the cloud lurking persistently on it.
- The crags and gullies of Great End; Central Gully prominent in middle
We made our way straight up to the bottom of Central Gully where we met another group who were contemplating doing that climb, but were undecided. The new snow was rather soft and might have posed an avalanche threat from above the amphitheatre. We went rightwards under the cliffs towards the start of Cust's, stopping at a suitable spot to get out an axe each (we had two each, just in case) and put on crampons. While we were doing this the other party, who were already geared up, had decided not to do Central but go for Cust's instead, so they came past us.
- These guys were set to do Central Gully but changed their minds and passed us as we were donning crampons
- Sprinkling Tarn from the traverse between Central and Cust's Gullies, where we stopped to put on crampons and waterproof jackets (it had just started snowing).
- Looking up towards the start of Cust's
By the time we were ready to go the others had disappeared above us. The snow was soft but compacted easily and formed good steps. Into the clag now, we caught up with the others at the foot of the gully proper.
- Approaching Cust's
Entering between the vertical walls of the gully (a wonderfully atmospheric place), it was a straightforward plod up soft snow to begin with, axe shafts driven in for security.
- Entering the gully
The famous chockstone, wedged into the top of the gully walls, loomed above.
- The chockstone becomes visible
The party ahead of us stopped underneath the chockstone, taking their rucksacks off to access their second ice axes; there was an obvious steepening of the snow above them. We followed suit.
- Under the chockstone; the snow gets steeper and becomes solid snow-ice. Everyone stops to access their second axe, including us.
When we arrived under the chockstone we were pleased to find that the steeper stuff was good, solid snow-ice. The picks of the axes drove in securely and front points of crampons bit nicely. Very satisfying stuff!
- Karl coming up from under the chockstone - well done mate! This was a tricky shot to take; from a front-pointing position I had to let go of both axes and twist around, turning the camera, one handed, until it pointed in the right direction.
At the top was a final steepening over a semi-cornice - almost vertical, but with such solid axe placements it was no problem.
- At the top of Cust's Gully
Emerging from the gully onto the summit slopes, visibility was very poor, but we weren't complaining.
- The west cairn on Great End, which according to Harvey maps is the summit.
It didn't look as if the mist was going to clear any time soon and in these whiteout conditions there wasn't much point in extending our walk on to the Pike, so we took a bearing for the col above Calf Cove and headed for Esk Hause. The weather wasn't getting any better!
We managed to locate the cross-walls shelter and stopped for a nice long lunch. We decided to return via Sty Head just to vary the walk a bit. As we set off, visibility was appalling.- Lunch at the shelter below Esk Hause, thick weather
- Ruddy Gill in poor visibility
- Snowing at Sprinkling Tarn
- Group at Sprinkling Tarn, just out of the clag at last
- Weather clearing nicely
At Sprinkling Tarn the clag began to clear at last.
- The Gables
- Sty Head Tarn
- Great End above the Corridor
- Piers Gill
- Sty Head Tarn again
It would have been nice to have bagged the Hewitts Ill Crag and Broad Crag, which I've been meaning to do for some time, but with the visibility as it was it would have been difficult to locate the exact summits. We were quite happy to have found Cust's in really good nick. It had been a most enjoyable climb; not difficult, but very satisfying.
accompanied by a good report. Pity about the poor visibility 
but at least you achieved your goal 
); he probably thought I was about to fall on his head whilst taking the photo! 