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The Gizzifurggu passI've not been over the Ferden pass, but by far the most exciting return to Leukerbad I've done is by the 2912m Gizzifurggu pass (various spellings). This is another route only made possible for walkers by the retreat of the glaciers.
Map of the Lotchen and Gizzifurggu passes and the descent to FluealpThe hut and the passEarly morning view South from near the hut -Weisshorn on the RThe ascent to the pass - marked by cairns - is on a mixture of snow and rock and at 8.00A.M. the snow is pretty hard. In 2015 I was on my own and, kept to the rock as far as possible as it was very hard work kicking steps . However when I got there I was rewarded by an amazing view of the Mont Blanc massif.
views from the passMont BlancZoomed - Grand Jorasses on the L - Plateau de Triente on the RSouth ridge of the BalmhornLooking down to LeukerbadBy walking further R the Grand Combin appears just R of the Majinghorn ?Right at the top Androsace helvetica - Swiss rock jasmine - a lime loving plant and the only place I've ever found itLooking back down to the hut (circled). The 3293m Hockenhorn is on the LFurther L still the Petersgrat with the Blumisalp group behindThe South side of the pass was almost snow-free and a reasonable path could be followed down the slopes of black shale. The Flowers grew more prolific as I descended
Campanula cenisia - Mt Cenis bellflowerCerastium latifolium - Broad-leaved mouse-earAster alpinus - Alpine asterTrifolium badium - Brown cloverSilene acaulis - Moss campionA view up to the Ferden passThe path now descended into lush meadows.Gentiana purpurea - Purple gentianGentiana lutea - Giant yellow gentianLooking back up to the passEventually I reached a big track and came to the farm at Fluealp where there is also a cafe, but I didn't bother to stop
Looking back again from FluealpFrom here you can walk down a gravel road to the village - about an hour and a half - but it looked deadly dull and I took a path to the R which led through some woods and crossed the stream. It was a wide very easy angled grassy path, but the "authorities" had covered a section of it in sackcloth/canvas. The idea I suppose was to cover some slimy rocks, but the effect was simply to transfer the sliminess through. Suddenly my Right foot shot sideways and Left, and I toppled rightwards over it: there was a sharp pain of tearing ankle ligaments and finally an even sharper one
. My first serious accident in 60 years and it happened on a path that could have been in a local park. Akin to climbing Everest then falling to one's death on Arthur's Seat
I managed to get into a sitting position and took stock. I could still wiggle my toes and move my foot up and down: my leg didn't appear to be broken. I took 400mg of Ibuprofen and using my poles managed to hobble back to the cafe where they called me a taxi . It turned out that as well as wrecking my ankle, I'd cracked the top of the fibula - so that was 6 weeks in a moonboot and a lot of easy track walking afterwards
View across the stream - the promised land but I never got there Despite the unfortunate ending, however, I still regard this as one of the best alpine walks I have ever done