free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
Early in June we decided to head to Eupen, a town in Ostbelgien, the German speaking region in the east of Belgium. This part of the country is home to the Signal de Botrange, the highest point in the kingdom at 694m (a viewing platform allows visitors to ascend a further 6 metres to attain 700m). Not mountain country by any stretch of the imagination but wild and uniquely interesting terrain. The landscape and ecology of the 'Hautes Fagnes'
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_Fens is very special and I struggle to think of terrain like it at similar altitude anywhere else in western Europe. The region is also historically interesting. Often referred to as the Belgian Alsace the territory has changed hands several times over the last two centuries and was the scene of bitter fighting in the winter of 1944.
A road actually passes over the high fen and there are many short, easy hikes to the top of Belgium. However, to make for a more challenging day we started our walk about 25km away to north west in the centre of Eupen and followed a GR trail up through woods and fen, giving us almost 2000ft of elevation gain in total.
Near Eupen
On leaving Eupen the trail soon enters dense woodland that climbs steadily and occasionally steeply. At one point on the trail we found ourselves looking down at the tops of tall fir trees beneath us. At around 500m altitude we emerged from the firs and pines to a boggy plateau with beautiful deciduous trees. Duckboards criss-cross this part of the fen. Without them this part of Belgium could give the Berwyns a run for their money in terms of damp heather bashing and bog trotting. I was really taken aback with this bucolic landscape. At 500m above sea level in the UK there is simply nothing like it and at this altitude I am far more used to a more barren landscape.
Climbing above the treetops
As we climbed higher though, at around 600m, the landscape suddenly became harsher, largely devoid of trees and much more exposed to the elements. Before long we reached the Signal de Botrange itself and made the obligatory trek up the staircase to touch the 700m contour. We passed a pleasant 30 minutes or so in the nearby cafe before a scheduled bus took us back down the hill to Eupen.
Emerging onto the high fens at around 500m
On the bus back we passed the crossroads at Belle Croix. This junction was the objective of an ill-fated German airborne operation - operation Stosser - during the Ardennes offensive of December 1944. The operation was a complete catastrophe. Many of the paratroopers were inexperienced as were the pilots delivering them to the drop zone. Weather conditions were atrocious and about 250 of the paratroopers ended up being dropped near to Bonn, around 50 miles to the east. Of those that managed to drop successfully over the target many suffered crippling injuries on landing and simply perished on the frozen fen. When hiking in Belgium the history of various conflicts is ever present and adds an interesting but sobering dimension to many walks.
Hautes Fagnes at around 650m
While the highest point in Belgium may lack the grandeur of a snow capped mountain it is nevertheless a fine hiking objective. After our ascents of Scafell Pike in 2013 and Snowdon in 2016, the Signal de Botrange marks our third country high point reached together. Not being able to place too many ticks in my Welsh or Scottish lists at the moment I remarked to J that I might think about the European high points as a mid-term alternative. Mont Blanc would certainly make for an interesting contrast to anywhere in Benelux! As chance would have it I should be within spitting distance of western Europe's highest point in just 3 weeks time as I join the Belgian Alpine club in the Aoste valley. Our objectives this year lie to the east in the Monte Rosa but my trip to the top of Belgium has certainly got me thinking about Mont Blanc, not to mention the Grossglockner, Mulhacen and many other fine summits that crown the countries of Europe.
Signal de Botrange