Cronkley Fell in the Durham Dales.

[trailmasher]

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Cronkley Fell is situated in the Moor House - Upper Teesdale National Nature Reserve and at 548 metres in height is not a big hill by any means but it is worth the effort to get on it and up it. The fell that is quite flat on top nevertheless has quite an imposing frontage with the west and northeast faces comprising of rough and crumbling crags the evidence of which is seen by the piles of shattered rocks that are scattered about in great quantities below them. Fox Earths and Raven Scar sweep around from the west to marry up with Cronkley Scar on the northern 'nose' followed by Green Hill Scar that runs the whole length of the northeast face, with the whole of the fell enclosed on its north side by the large sweeping curve of the River Tees.

Green Hill Scar and Cronkley Scar across Teesdale.

We began the walk from the decent sized Forest-in-Teesdale car park at NY867298 that sits directly below the Forest-in-Teesdale School that is itself sitting below the southern slopes of Fendrith Hill. Our way to the car park was by driving northwest along the B6277 Middleton-in-Teesdale road to find it about 1½ miles - 2.4 kilometres - past the High Force car park.

The sun was shining as we arrived at the empty car park with a mild enough 13°c temperature, although there was a slow but keen breeze blowing that warranted putting on an extra lair just for now. Just in front of the car park there is a small picnic area that has a large, modern standing stone depicting the different prehistoric ages of reptiles, animals, rock, etc and is a well carved piece of sculpture full of interest and knowledge.

A monument to the ancient Age of Rocks and Animals.

As mentioned earlier in the report, to the north of the car park there are the massive fells of Chapelfell Top, Fendrith Hill and more over to the northeast there lies Westernhope Moor. To the south there is Bink Moss, Hagworm Hill, and just west of south there is Mickle Fell sat in the Warcop Ranges and over to the west is Meldon Hill of which I have no desire to visit a second time.

Booted and bagged we set off to reach the main road just a few metres away and walked up it in the direction of Alston for a few metres more before crossing the road and taking the first farm track on the left that heads off southwest towards the small group of buildings that make up Wat Garth, a farmhouse with usual outbuildings and some small cottages. We passed over a couple of cattle grids to arrive at the buildings, a black goat shed being the first one where a fairly large homemade sign advised us that we had to turn off to the right to circumnavigate the farm. We crossed a small field, crossed over a wire fence via the step stile, dropped down to a small beck and then climbing out again to cross another field heading towards a gap stile in a dry stone wall from where it is but a short stride to Cronkley Bridge that spans the wide River Tees.

Cronkley Bridge across the River Tees.

Looking across the sun dappled fields Cronkley Fell was directly in front of us showing off its rough grey face with its easy sloping east ridge full of green grass contrasting with the roughness of the front face as it runs steadily out to meet the Pennine Way. As we crossed the bridge the water was running at a gentle pace with sheep grazing along its banks, a mixture of limestone river bed and a collection of various coloured stones, cobbles, and pebbles made small islands in the running water that is quite clear today.

Once we were on the bridge we were now on the Pennine Way, a continuation of it as it made its way along the north side of the River Tees as it made its way towards Cow Green Dam, Maize Beck, and High Cup Nick. We passed by Cronkley Farm to walk along an enclosed grass path towards High Crag a small outcrop of rock topped by juniper trees…

Juniper trees on High Crag.

through two gates and then a short climb up brought us to the top and a paved section of the PW. The slabs led us alongside a wall and through an area of wet ground that was obvious by the large amount of rushes growing in the area. After a few metres we stopped as we saw a herd of cattle with calves spread out across the path as they nonchalantly grazed and taking no heed of us whatsoever. Now that was a good sign, but then we noticed a massive brown bull making sure that no harm came to his harem of cows and their calves. This then gave some cause for thought. Should we walk on the other side of the wall and hope that there is a way out further along, or take a chance and walk slowly and humbly through them? We decided to take out our walking poles, extend them and slowly and steadily make our forward but keeping close to the wall in case of any aggressive moves towards us by one or all.

Emboldened by the poles - which were worse than useless against a 3 ton bull - we made our way up the path and taking care not to make eye contact - especially with the bull - we eased our way through them with the only moment of concern was when the calves ran off skittishly and us hoping that the cows didn't get on the defence thinking that we were chasing them. Do cows think like that I wonder?

We continued on our way a bit happier now that the beasts were behind us and still following the well paved PW. As we slowly ascended the fells opened up in front of us with the scree and bracken covered face of Noon Hill just that tad bit higher than its neighbours.

Looking to Noon Hill from the Pennine Way.

Noon Hill in cloud shadow.

Making good time along the paved way we soon arrived at the gate stile at Fell Dike Sike crossing the waterway by way of the many rocks that were strewn across it. After a few metres of still moving south along the PW we arrived at the green lane that runs uphill at a steady gradient along the ridge of Birk Rigg, it was here that we turned west along what is locally named as 'Green Trod' to follow it as it made its steady ascent along the wide and grassy ridge.

Looking along Birk Rigg towards Cronkley Fell and White Force Waterfall to the left.

The old drove road known as Green Trod climbs Birk Rigg.

The track steepens a little bit as it approaches White Force Waterfall and old mine refuse tips and we had to tread a bit more carefully over some of the larger rocks that were scattered about the path for just a short distance. There wasn't much water running down White Force and any photos that I took amounted to nothing worth showing really so that was a bit of a disappointment. The temperature is steadily rising along with us as we made our way up the ridge despite the fact that the sun has all but disappeared where we are walking.

Stopping for a look back there was a great panorama of hills surrounding us many of which I named earlier in the report, and although there were many dark clouds above they have kept at a respectable height leaving the summits clear of clag.

A view back to the River Tees.

As we passed White Force the path meanders towards Skyer Beck to our left that we would now follow to its head on Thistle Green.

The view down Skyer Beck.

The far side of the beck has a strip of rocks and boulders decorating the lower bank and as we arrived at it and prior to reaching the top of the fell dozens of rabbits scattered and ran into the rocks so we reckoned that the rocks must give great cover to a rock armoured rabbit warren from any large predators looking for its next meal.

From the rabbit warren the ground eased off very quickly and was by now almost level with just a few heathery hummocks of high ground scattered about. Continuing walking west and not much further away from the head of Skyer Beck, we came across the first of three areas of protected ground that are enclosed within a sheep and rabbit proof fence.

Thistle Green to the left and rabbit proof fence on the right.

Within the enclosures are rare alpine plants that are relics of the last ice age and although we could see many plants of various shapes and colours neither of us are familiar with their names so for this report they must remain anonymous. There are lots of bare patches of ground within the enclosures so maybe that is ground that is still recovering from the ravages of grazing animals.

Behind the rabbit proof fence there are rare plants.

A short distance further on from this first enclosure we climbed a short stony bank to arrive at the summit cairn…

Elizabeth at Cronkley Fell summit cairn.

from where we had a good view across Cronkley Fell…

Looking back along Cronkley Fell.

that is mostly covered in short heather and bilberry with small islands of short green grass scattered amongst it.

Leaving Cronkley Fell behind.

From this point we could also see the three rounded humps of Cross Fell, Little Dun Fell, and Great Dun Fell but unfortunately the 'golf ball' couldn't be seen due to the distance and haze. We also had a glimpse, more a thin sliver of silver, of Cow Green Dam, but it was only for an instance for as we moved on to lower ground it went out of view and was not seen again on this walk.

Having passed across Thistle Green and the summit we dropped into the slight hollow of White Well and Fox Earths Gill where the water of the gill appeared from under a natural limestone bridge, a mini version of the God's Bridge that is on the River Greta just west of the village of Bowes and south of the A66.

A mini God's Bridge on Cronkley Fell.

From the limestone bridge we then crossed over a short patch of limestone pavement and then walked along a gently rising wide, green path that would take us out of the hollow and onto the higher ground of Man Gate from where the River Tees could now be seen with the grey limestone of Falcon Clints showing above Lingy Holm.

A short climb at Man Gate.

We left Man Gate to now start the descent down a fairly steep bank to follow a well seen path that is also marked by a couple of cairns, one of them being used to support the Open Access Land info board.

A decorated cairn on Man Gate overlooking the River Tees and Falcon Clints.

The wide path soon turned into a well defined and built up old track that runs straight down towards a small copse of young trees set in a small enclosure. Near the bottom of the track we crossed over the wide expanse of stones and rocks that form the bed of Black Sike that today had only a trickle of water running down it but looking at the width of the stones, rocks, and cobbles there must be fair amount of water after rain.

The valley bottom is fairly wide on the south side of the river where we were and is covered in soft green grass upon which the sheep were eagerly feasting, more interested in this than the rougher fare that is to be found higher up the fells. We were now on the area of ground that goes by the name of Merrygill that at one time had a waterway running through it that was a continuation of Black Sike but of which there is no sign of now.

Looking across Merrygill from Holm.

There was now a long steady walk through the grass following the river along a decent path with the long screes and crags of Fox Earths and Raven Scar to our right and front with the 'nose' now closing up the valley as it descended towards the river bank.

Once that we had left the wider part of the river bank the path becomes nothing more than a narrow path…

The river side path.

varying between a decent one to rocky in places and where the path is right on the edge of the river bank there has been a walkway of wooden railway sleepers constructed some of which are a bit dodgy and looking to collapse after the next flood.

Lots of boardwalk on this path of the River Tees.

Just as we left the open area there is a large sweep in the river where the flood water has washed away a fair amount of the valley bottom leaving an island of grass and cobbles. There is an exposed clay/sandy bank where the holes of the sand martin's nests could be seen quite clearly…

Ravens Scar and sand martin's bank on the River Tees.

whilst just further on the oystercatchers came swooping down on us from the other side of the river so we thought that they were probably nesting amongst the wide bank of shingle that lies on that side.

Although the path is very narrow now on our side due to the rocky scars it has opened up considerably on the north side with the enclosed Widdy Bank and buildings of Holmwatch sat at the side of Fold Sike.

Just before we reached Fox Earths Gill the path took a turn away from the river due to the roughness of the ground and we had to climb up a path that was buried in bracken. A short fairly level stretch brought us to a wall and Fox Earths Gill that we had to follow down stepping over the multitude of large heather covered rounded rocks that lined the bed of the gill. After carefully getting to the bottom we found a wooden gate and the bank side path again from where more boardwalk and narrow path followed.

The River Tees was running slow, clear, and shallow, looking inviting enough for a quick dip in the heat of the day but I remember a time early last year when walking between Round Hill and Bellbeaver Rigg that it was so cold I was walking along the ice that was covering the Tees so a bit of a contrast from today's walk.

A view towards Fendrith Hill.

We saw a couple of walkers on the opposite bank making their way to Dufton YH and had a short chat with them across the river. We passed an old tumbledown quarry building at the foot of Green Hill where the ground has opened up again but it wasn't long before we were once more squeezed onto the river bank.

Looking back along the River Tees.

After this last narrow section of path the ground widened up considerably and we were now crossing heathery ground along a grassy path through Cronkley Pasture and we soon arrived at a gate in a stone wall that now put in some long grassed pasture the grounds wetness obvious by the many clumps of rushes and reeds that is growing amongst the grass. From this point it was merely a case of walking back to Cronkley Bridge and retracing our steps back to the car park.

This has been a nice steady walk amongst varied landscape with not much height gained but nevertheless affording us some great views across the countryside with the Pennines being the most prevalent hills around. It has been warm with a start of 13°c and an even warmer end at 21°c. The dark stormy looking clouds didn't release a drop of rain and as we left White Well the clouds began to open up and produced some welcome sunshine that stayed with us for the remainder of the day.

[johnkaysleftleg]

Often wondered what it was like up there, now I know, thanks TM

[trailmasher]

Often wondered what it was like up there, now I know, thanks TM

Lovely walk, good views, easy going JK and maybe time to have a look for yourself mate Thanks for your comments as ever

[Alteknacker]

I didn't know this one at all - the only one I've been up in the area is Mickle Fell (at the time quite ignorant of the military restrictions ). Unfortunately I can remember little of it, partly because it was some 15 years ago, and partly because most of it was done in clag; though I suppose this is a reason to get back up there again. Perusing the map, it looks like there are endless possibilities for rounds, long or short....

Quite wild and bleak landscape, I must say, but with some pretty characterful scars overlooking the river too. Hard to credit that England is the most densely populated country in Europe when you see wildernesses like this...

[trailmasher]

I didn't know this one at all - the only one I've been up in the area is Mickle Fell (at the time quite ignorant of the military restrictions ). Unfortunately I can remember little of it, partly because it was some 15 years ago, and partly because most of it was done in clag; though I suppose this is a reason to get back up there again. Perusing the map, it looks like there are endless possibilities for rounds, long or short....

Quite wild and bleak landscape, I must say, but with some pretty characterful scars overlooking the river too. Hard to credit that England is the most densely populated country in Europe when you see wildernesses like this...

It's partly thanks to E and partly because I wanted to explore other not so publicised areas that I have begun to go to these lesser known fells and I find them quite interesting in beautiful parts of the country other than the LD We are beginning to find our way around Teesdale and Swaledale where there are many things of interest. And yes, you're right Alte, there are many different and varied ways around these fells

Thanks very much for your comments and reading

[Bonzo]

Ah, Widdy Bank Farm brings back memories of my Pennine Way walk in 1986.

My brother and I had started off from Middleton earlier in the day so, as we'd only had a small breakfast, were tempted to knock on the front door of the farm house thanks to their 'snacks available' sign.

The farmer's wife (I assume) answered the door and welcomed us into a rather rustic house which seemed to be more like a museum than a modern dwelling. We ordered our cups of tea and biscuits and waited in silence.

Whilst we were waiting the woman's two daughters peered around the door and stared at us. After deciding that we were quite normal they entered the room and sat on a chair opposite us - staring all the time. They were probably in their mid teens and had thick uncombed long black hair. It's fair to say that they looked pretty wild.

Our tea and biscuits arrived and we drank and ate whilst the two girls stared. I can't remember them blinking at any point. As I ate I kept thinking about 'An American Werewolf in London' and other possible, rather violent, outcomes that the scenario could bring but we finished our snack, said our goodbyes and left the building to be welcomed by heavy rain.

We reached Dufton after non-stop rain but alive. Those were the days

[trailmasher]

Ah, Widdy Bank Farm brings back memories of my Pennine Way walk in 1986.

The farmer's wife (I assume) answered the door and welcomed us into a rather rustic house which seemed to be more like a museum than a modern dwelling. We ordered our cups of tea and biscuits and waited in silence.

Whilst we were waiting the woman's two daughters peered around the door and stared at us. After deciding that we were quite normal they entered the room and sat on a chair opposite us - staring all the time. It's fair to say that they looked pretty wild.

Our tea and biscuits arrived and we drank and ate whilst the two girls stared. I can't remember them blinking at any point. As I ate I kept thinking about 'An American Werewolf in London' and other possible, rather violent, outcomes

I'm pleased to have teased your memory to 'back in the day' and the place doesn't look much different now stuck out there in its wild and isolated spot The Chainsaw Massacre came to my mind at one point in this tale It must have been hard to leave a warm spot and trot off out into the rain as it's a long way to Dufton from there It seems even longer on a bad day
Thanks for your comments and memories