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...and everyone rushed to the door.... (Fannaraken, Norway)

...and everyone rushed to the door.... (Fannaraken, Norway)


Postby jacob » Sat Aug 12, 2017 10:50 am

Date walked: 29/07/2017

Distance: 14 km

Ascent: 1300m

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As national route 55 curles around it, despite being far from the highest or biggest mountain in Jotunheimen, Fannaraken is a mountain that dominates one's view for quite some time, when driving through the national park.
From the north it looks impressive, as it's northflank is completely covered in glacial ice. From the west one can't help but being intimidated by it's southern neighbour, the Skagastolstindane, a very impressive sharp teethed mountain that's part of the even bigger range of Hurrungane.
After having summited Galdhopiggen we were drawn to Jotunheimen's other summits. But the Jotunheimen-west maps don't show too much paths (Sti in Norsk) that actually reach mountaintops. Fannaraken is one of the few that has a summitpath. And as we weren't in for alpine adventures, Fannaraken it would be, both hoping it would be less crowded than Galdhopiggen.
Fannaraken reaches a hight of 2068 meters and it's summit can be reached by a partially circular walk or a to-and-back walk. The starting point is the parkingplace of Turtrago, a hotel and what not along route 55. From there one follows a very muddy path through the shrubs surroundig the parkingplace, till you reach a better gravel road that leads to some holiday houses in the valley of Helgedalen, a valley that on it's turn leads to the feet of Fannaraken.
It is a forested valley, but due to being at an altitude of nearly 1000 meters already, the trees are small and look more like shrubs than trees.
Here you can see today's goal from Helgedalen valley, mirrored in a pool:

SAM_0740 (2).jpg


Along this gravel road there's one thing that catches your eyes non stop: a massive waterfall almost straight ahead. No photos of than one though, since all photos I took don't do the grandeur and might any justice.
Here we are, we left the gravel road and you see the mrs making her way up the mountain path. The waterfall is visible in the background, but still not good enough to get a good idea of it's size:

SAM_0747 (2).jpg


The gravel road that led to this mountainpath is about 4 kilometers long. This is looking at it from over our shoulders:

SAM_0751 (2).jpg


At we continued and got higher up, slow but steady, it got clear where this waterfall was coming from. Behind us were, although covered in clouds, the teeth of the Skagastolstindane and the massive Styggedalsbreen, a steep glacier crawling down it's host's flanks:

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The mountain is massive. As we get higher up, the path roughly follows a burn/waterfall on our left, we are flanked by an outlier of Fannaraken, that makes the mountain look like a camel's back from afar.

SAM_0764 (2).jpg


The path takes a turn to the right, and it starts to zigzag towards the summit. The lovely green mos and heather have gone now, the dark granite (I think) rocks and the ever more present clouds and fog together form the only landscape now. The path is, although very steep, as good as it gets in this type of ground though and it is properly waymarked with the ever present red capital T:

SAM_0768 (2).jpg


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By the time we reach the snow line, visibility is zero. Temperature as well I might add (in Celcius that is). It's difficult to get an idea of how far we are and how much still lies in front of us:

SAM_0777 (2).jpg


But quite to our surprise, as soon as there's a little cloudlift, it's clear that we're near the summit: the mountainhut that's built on the summit plateau is in sight. Inside they sell hot food and drinks, but as we have little money on us but we do have our own food, we decide to have a picknick just outside the hut, in the freezing cold:

SAM_0778 (2).jpg


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After we finish our dinner we head into the hut, that's maintained by the Norwegian mountain association. It is a lovely hut, nothing like the one on Galdhopiggen. It's clean (leave shoes and jackets and anything that's wet in the portal), it's not crowded (a dozen people I would guess) and it's very comfortable (nice granny-style sofas).
Outside it's just plain grimm. Icy rain and no view whatsoever. We decide to spend our last money on coffee and tea, wait out the weather a bit and return to the car.

But suddenly there's a turmoil, I don't know if I caused it, but I'm certainly part of it. Against all odds the clouds seem to have made way for the sun. I, amongst most others, franticly search for my camera while rushing out in unlaced boots and with no jacket on. It is cold but it's worth it. Even though what seemed to be just a short lived clearing up of the sky turns out to last for several hours. Nevermind. This is what I saw:

At first the sun is still a bit unsure, the clouds don't really seem ready to give up

SAM_0784 (2).jpg


But views get better and better. I'm crisscrossing the plateau, a headless chicken, not knowing where to look and what picture to shoot. It's wonderful

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Here's two people passing the weatherstation that's placed on the summitplateau.

SAM_0791 (2).jpg


Here's the view on the valley we came from.

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Here's the mrs with the hut in the background, giving a good idea of what the plateau looks like:

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And here she is on the actual highest point:

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But however much the skies are clearing up, the clouds don't seem to want to reaveal the teeth of Skagastolstindane. A real pity. I've seen them from the car in full glory and they are very impressive. Would have loved to see them from high up. Here they are covered in clouds:

SAM_0808 (2).jpg


Some more shots and, forgive me, a summitselfie:

SAM_0810 (2).jpg


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Re: ...and everyone rushed to the door.... (Fannaraken, Norw

Postby litljortindan » Sat Aug 12, 2017 11:28 am

Superb! Looking very happy there. You must feel lucky getting the cloud lift at the right time again.

If you haven't read Slingsby's Norway the Northern Playground you really must if only to read about his solo ascent of the last part of Store Skagastolstind.
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Re: ...and everyone rushed to the door.... (Fannaraken, Norw

Postby Cairngorm creeper » Sat Aug 12, 2017 2:19 pm

That looked wonderful (once the sun came out) your efforts were well rewarded :D
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Re: ...and everyone rushed to the door.... (Fannaraken, Norw

Postby jacob » Sun Aug 13, 2017 10:53 am

litljortindan wrote:Superb! Looking very happy there. You must feel lucky getting the cloud lift at the right time again.

If you haven't read Slingsby's Norway the Northern Playground you really must if only to read about his solo ascent of the last part of Store Skagastolstind.


You can't imagine how happy I felt. It's an amazing viewpoint in all directions, although I mainly focused on Skagastolstinden and the route of ascent for my photos.

To be honoust: I'd never even heard of Slingsby, but after your reply I looked him up and read some real interesting stuff about him, the Norwegian competition and the role of woman in early mountaineering. I'll try and get hold of the book, many thanks for the advice.
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Re: ...and everyone rushed to the door.... (Fannaraken, Norw

Postby jacob » Sun Aug 13, 2017 10:54 am

Cairngorm creeper wrote:That looked wonderful (once the sun came out) your efforts were well rewarded :D


Thanks Cairngorm creeper. I love the mountains no matter what weather, but it is true that sunny views are the icing on the cake. Even more so in wintery conditions.
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Re: ...and everyone rushed to the door.... (Fannaraken, Norw

Postby Mal Grey » Sun Aug 13, 2017 7:46 pm

So glad the cloud cleared so you could bring those stunning views into our homes!
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Re: ...and everyone rushed to the door.... (Fannaraken, Norw

Postby jacob » Mon Aug 14, 2017 9:51 am

Mal Grey wrote:So glad the cloud cleared so you could bring those stunning views into our homes!


The pleasure is all mine.
Wish it was my job :lol:
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Re: ...and everyone rushed to the door.... (Fannaraken, Norw

Postby Alteknacker » Sat Aug 19, 2017 8:50 am

Wild, wild, wild - and quite wonderful!

Knowing less than nothing about Norway, it caused me look up Fannaraken. The Jotunheimen Ridge looks most alluring.

I was surprised to see how relatively far south it is - only just slightly north of Shetland.
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Re: ...and everyone rushed to the door.... (Fannaraken, Norw

Postby jacob » Sat Aug 19, 2017 10:20 am

Alteknacker wrote:Wild, wild, wild - and quite wonderful!

Knowing less than nothing about Norway, it caused me look up Fannaraken. The Jotunheimen Ridge looks most alluring.

I was surprised to see how relatively far south it is - only just slightly north of Shetland.


Thanks Alteknacker. You're very right, the Jotunheimen is a great place. Very, very impressing even when just driving through it. One wouldn't even need to conquer the summits to get a good idea of it's immense greatness.
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