walkhighlands

This board helps you to share your walking route experiences in England and Wales... or overseas.
Warning Please note that hillwalking when there is snow lying requires an ice-axe, crampons and the knowledge, experience and skill to use them correctly. Summer routes may not be viable or appropriate in winter. See winter information on our skills and safety pages for more information.

Tse' bighanilini

Tse' bighanilini


Postby FLaVrT » Mon Oct 11, 2010 12:37 am

Date walked: 01/01/2012

Time taken: 6

Distance: 2 km

Ascent: 30m

Register or Login
free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).

Tse' bighanilini

Dear Highlanders,

I’ve taken a lot from this forum. This is the best thing I have to give back: A walk through Antelope Canyon. The place is so very strange, I have to explain it. If you want to come along, please bear with a little background.

We journey to the town of Page along the Colorado River in northernmost Arizona. Until the bridge and dam were built across the impassible Glenn Canyon, it was the most remote area in America. Page was built to house the construction workers, and now serves to accommodate tourists visiting the immense Lake Powell behind the dam, and the vast public lands that surround it. Some cartography to get you oriented.

Image

Image

Image
FLaVrT
Scrambler
 
Posts: 50
Joined: May 22, 2010

Re: Tse' bighanilini

Postby FLaVrT » Mon Oct 11, 2010 12:41 am

I can’t think of anyplace more visually distant from our homelands or more contrary to our walking experience. Although Arizona is a shockingly dry place, the effects of water erosion dramatically sculpt the landscape everywhere you look. On the road to Page, we stopped at Horseshoe Bend in the Colorado. The river name has lost its meaning. Now the water has been tamed by the dam, constantly flowing cold and clear.

Image

The river canyon is a distraction that hides the important things in plain view. I should have been looking at the peculiar cross-grained sandstone more closely. Later I learned that this rock is called Navajo Sandstone. The distinct shifts in the strata were puzzling for a moment, but this is the Southwest and there are no end of new things to ponder.

Image

The Navjo, or Diné which is their name for themselves, communally own much of the land of Arizona and our particular point of interest. Like us, they have a fondness for the high places. Perhaps the pure water sources, thin air, and broad vistas became folded into a spirituality unique to this region. But the Tse' bighanilini has nothing to do with any of that. It means something like ‘the sewer pipe.’ That’s important to keep in mind as we enter the slot canyon here.

Image
FLaVrT
Scrambler
 
Posts: 50
Joined: May 22, 2010

Re: Tse' bighanilini

Postby FLaVrT » Mon Oct 11, 2010 12:46 am

Without a guide pointing you to this crack in the Earth, you would have no natural inclination to squeeze and contort yourself through. However, that is the worse of it. The canyon immediately opens up. As strange as it seems from this perspective, it’s even stranger. We will walk right through this scene.

Image

Now I know what you’re thinking: What’s with the carnival lighting? There is no lighting. It is actually very dark. What you see here is a long exposure gathering the tiny bit of sunlight that comes through the overhead crack and bounces off the rock faces on its way down.

The hike is supported by a series of extremely rugged steel stairways. Heroically fabricated to order, with utter disregard for any known commericial stair standards, each fits a unique pitch and width. Massive bolts hold the ironwork to the rock, because this really is a sewer pipe. When it does rain heavily, even 10 miles away, the slot canyon flushes with an unimaginable torrent. Getting caught in a flash flood here is certain death.

Image

Expensive cameras and lens are lost in a slot canyon. It is so dark, exposure metering doesn’t work. With the help of our guide, I learned to photograph with a pinhole technique. To get decent images in this realm, we need both wide and deep fields of focus. So again against instinct, you stop down to your smallest aperture in your widest lens. Exposures are gaged by trial and error; mine were generally 20-60 seconds. Of course the camera never comes off the tripod for the entire hike.

Image
Last edited by FLaVrT on Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:11 pm, edited 2 times in total.
FLaVrT
Scrambler
 
Posts: 50
Joined: May 22, 2010

Re: Tse' bighanilini

Postby FLaVrT » Mon Oct 11, 2010 12:48 am

The canyon is formed from solidified sand dunes. This is what I was missing at Horseshoe Bend. Over time, sand and silt would pile up, wet, and compact into strata. Sometimes the wind would blow one way for an eon, and then another. This sets up the cross-grain formations. Sometimes the top of the dune was truncated in a flood, which we can now see in a level line across the rock grain. Each time these layers of natural concrete were wet, some of the minerals dissolved and precipitated. So within each layer, the rock hardness varies. Erosion reveals these ancient processes in a very attractive way.

Image

Certainly you’ve noticed the color variation too. Hard as it is to believe, I promise it is all natural, and needs no digital enhancement. After light enters the slot, the rock absorbs ever more of it on the way down. Happily it doesn’t just get darker. The shorter wavelengths seem to survive more reflections. So the walls develop a rainbow of colors. It all depends on the path of the light.

Image

The trick to capturing these colors is preventing direct sunlight or even sky light from entering the camera. Just a bit of that brightness blows out the entire image. I took this image to the limit, getting a little lens flare.

Image
FLaVrT
Scrambler
 
Posts: 50
Joined: May 22, 2010

Re: Tse' bighanilini

Postby FLaVrT » Mon Oct 11, 2010 1:02 am

On top of the colors and magnificent sculptural quality of the slot, there was music. Since we were visiting midweek in January, we had the place to ourselves. The guide got bored and came down to serenade us. He was very good, and took requests from us. But more than that, there was a fantastic reverberation caused by innumerable reflections off the slot walls. It sounded like a dozen guitars. I made this exposure to encourage him to record his songs.

Image

Some pretty rocks for your amusement. This goes on and on and on as you walk through the canyon. Notice the manicured trail. After a flood, the guides haul muck, brush, and small dead animals out in buckets.

Image

Image

Image
FLaVrT
Scrambler
 
Posts: 50
Joined: May 22, 2010

Re: Tse' bighanilini

Postby FLaVrT » Mon Oct 11, 2010 1:04 am

I think you get the idea, and it’s chilly down here. Let’s climb back up into the sun, and another desolate landscape.

Image

The hike back to the parking area is obvious but a bit treacherous. This is the time to revisit the danger of flash floods. Back in the 1990’s, the guide noticed a storm on the horizon and knew it meant trouble for his visitors in the slot. He warned a group not to enter and then ran down this route yelling to the people to get out. It almost worked. Sadly, the group at the entrance did not heed his warning. A dozen of them were killed when the flood came.

Since then, these boxes have been installed. The guide can unlock them to quickly deploy a series of rope ladders down into the slot. Visitors all along the canyon can now rescue themselves in seconds.

Image
FLaVrT
Scrambler
 
Posts: 50
Joined: May 22, 2010

Re: Tse' bighanilini

Postby FLaVrT » Mon Oct 11, 2010 1:07 am

Further along, you can see new sandstone forming in real time. When rain or snow melt soaks the soil surface, the silty material swells. It dries and shrinks into a crust. All across the Southwest, they ask us to avoid walking on this material because it harbors a matrix of moisture, nutrients, and microorganisms, which sustain larger plant and animal life. “Don’t Bust the Crust.”

As the crust gets buried with more wind-blown sand and silt, it will morph into the soft stone we’ve been enjoying.

Image

One last word on photographing the Southwest. People yammer about the wonderful light. It’s true that there is lots of it, but far too harsh to be called ‘wonderful.’ Photographic success here comes from capturing reflected light. I tried to illustrate the point with this image. We only get detail and those fabulous colors in the shadows.

Image
FLaVrT
Scrambler
 
Posts: 50
Joined: May 22, 2010

Re: Tse' bighanilini

Postby FLaVrT » Mon Oct 11, 2010 1:09 am

Ok, one more. I really am in love with this place—one of the very few hikes I plan to repeat. Thanks again, very very much for all your trip reports.

Image
FLaVrT
Scrambler
 
Posts: 50
Joined: May 22, 2010

Re: Tse' bighanilini

Postby magicdin » Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:11 am

spectacular stuff FLaVrT - and very interesting :)
User avatar
magicdin
Rambler
 
Posts: 2678
Munros:282   Corbetts:222
Fionas:110   Donalds:23
Sub 2000:17   Hewitts:24
Wainwrights:10   Islands:28
Joined: Aug 11, 2008

Re: Tse' bighanilini

Postby Raven » Mon Oct 11, 2010 4:17 pm

Top photos! :D
User avatar
Raven
Munro compleatist
 
Posts: 84
Munros:8   Corbetts:3
Sub 2000:3   
Joined: Sep 15, 2010
Location: Inverness & Libya North Africa only when things settle down again

Re: Tse' bighanilini

Postby Lottie » Mon Oct 11, 2010 8:14 pm

Gorgeous photographs. Desert environments do produce some stunning slot canyons. I've seen similar in the Middle East and Africa - but never such a beautiful deep red colour.
User avatar
Lottie
Hill Bagger
 
Posts: 28
Munros:5   
Fionas:2   
Sub 2000:1   Hewitts:17
Wainwrights:3   
Joined: Jul 13, 2010
Location: Mostly in Kuwait

Re: Tse' bighanilini

Postby mountain coward » Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:44 pm

Yeah, lovely photos - looks extremely like the canyon I did in Jordan which I put a report out on here a while back (and a lot of the other Jordanian canyons which I didn't get round to) - they're great fun aren't they. The main difference between your canyon and the Jordanian ones though, is the rescue ladders - great idea - nothing like that in Jordan. You just watch the weather - having said that, they do have extremely settled weather most of the year!
mountain coward
 

Re: Tse' bighanilini

Postby malky_c » Wed Oct 13, 2010 12:20 pm

Likes this as well. Always good to see different landscapes to the ones I'm used to, and this is certainly different! Keep the reports coming.
User avatar
malky_c
 
Posts: 6347
Munros:282   Corbetts:222
Fionas:219   Donalds:80+37
Sub 2000:315   Hewitts:281
Wainwrights:140   Islands:39
Joined: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Glasgow/Inverness

Re: Tse' bighanilini

Postby houdi » Fri Oct 15, 2010 8:41 pm

Just checked this out on Google Earth where there are dozens and dozens of photos just lkike the ones you've posted here. What an absolutely incredible place. I'm gobsmacked!!
houdi
Rambler
 
Posts: 288
Munros:93   Corbetts:1
Fionas:3   Donalds:2
Sub 2000:2   Hewitts:74
Wainwrights:48   
Joined: Aug 29, 2010
Location: South Devon

Register or Login
free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).




Can you help support Walkhighlands?


Our forum is free from adverts - your generosity keeps it running.
Can you help support Walkhighlands and this community by donating by direct debit?



Return to Walk reports - Outside Scotland

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests