Dent du Geant and the Rochefort Arete

[past my sell by date]

The 4013m Dent du Geant sticks up like a sore thumb between the Grand Jorasses and Mont Blanc

The classical view of the Grand Jorasses and the Geant from near the Midi
Beyond the Geant lies the Rochefort arete leading to the Aiguille and then the Dome de Rochefort and beyond that the 3825m Col de Grand Jorasses (Canzio Bivouac). and then the five 4000nders that compose the Grand Jorasses. The total traverse is along and difficult two day expedition - way beyond my capabilities
These peaks are usually accessed from the 3329m Torino hut situated at an intermediate station on the Telephérique (cable car) that starts in Courmayer, climbs to the 3462m Pointe Helbrunner and then crosses the Glacier du Geant and the Vallée Blanches to the Aiguille du Midi. So Steve and I drove thru the Mont Blanc tunnel and took the cable car to the hut

Torino hut
From the cable car station the long set of stairs to the Torino is very steep, and equipped with occasional "chicanes" to catch anyone who collapses due to the sudden increase in altitude and rolls down
It is better described as a "mountain hotel" and although it is quite comfortable with small bedrooms, it lacks I found, the "atmosphere" of a traditional mountain refuge. It does however enjoy superb views down to Courmayeur and beyond

Looking down from the Torino

A wider view

Map of the Geant and Rochefort area
The next morning we set out early in clear weather but with a cold biting wind. To start with you descend around 150m to a point below the Aiguilles Marbrées ( It feels a long climb back in the evening ) climb up and R to the highest point of the glacier and then up about 200m of mixed ground - mostly rock - grade II - II+ to the foot of the Dent itself
This area is always described as "easy ground below the Geant" but has been the scene of a number of fatal accidents all in descent in 1895 Emile Rey from Courmayeur dubbed " the Prince of Guides" fell here while descending unroped - apparently he jumped down on to a ledge which was covered in small pebbles, shot out into space and was unable to save himself. in his book "Summits and Secrets" Kurt Diemberger describes how on of his companions fell here on steep snow, and most tragically for British mountaineering Arthur Dolphin - doyen of the post war Lakeland climbing scene - routes such as Do Not and Kipling groove (famously named because it was ruddy 'ard ) - also died here in 1953

Looking back from near the high point of the glacier

And from the top of the easy ground

L - At the foot of the Geant - the ordinary route starts just around the corner at the far left : R - The hole in the Madonna's neck is the effect of a lightening strike
The wind was bitterly cold and my hands were suffering badly - even in thick gloves. The problem is that the body "thinks" it is freezing to death and concentrates blood flow to the core - cutting off circulation to the extremities and making it worse. I normally carry a couple of little sachets of "chemical" heaters (you take them from their sealed outer packets, put them in the backs of your gloves and the iron filings inside oxidize giving a gentle heat for up to 12 hours) but I had forgotten to bring them this time
Round the corner at the foot of the climb the wind was much less, but once frozen, my hands taken 30 minutes + to warm up, so I was still struggling. After an easy pitch up ledges you reach the foot of the huge Burgener slab and there are fixed ropes now all the way to the top I hate them
The slab is perfectly climbable without but in these cold conditions I just swarmed up them. The final pitch is a narrow groove where the fixed rope was a postive nuisance, but we reached the top quite quickly.

Summit photo

Looking back to Mont Blanc
The descent involves exciting abseils down the slightly overhanging South face . The guidebook says three 60m abseils, but Steve tells me we took at least four. I just remember one where you end up hanging in the air 3-4m away from the face and have to swing in and secure yourself on a small ledge without letting go of the ropes - not too difficult provided you have locked them off with Prussics. However Steve went first and was able to "reel me in" - so no problem

Looking back up the South face

Another view
We returned to the Torino the same way but set out again next morning in similar weather to do the Rochefort arete.

Classic old view of the Rochefort arete, renowned for its amazing layered cornices

The track passes beneath the Geant: On the L is the Peuteret ridge of Mont Blanc - Aiguilles Noire and Blanche

The cornices are now only a shadow of their former selves but it is still a nice ridge : The Aiguille de Rochefort R of centre with the Grand Jorasses behind and 3989m Mont Mallet on the L

L of Mont Mallet the peaks of the Talefré basin
Unfortunately, not only was the wind at least as strong and cold as the previous day, but we were not sheltered from it at all and eventually the cold of my hands became too much and I decided we had to retreat

two views looking back along the ridge to the Geant

We descended to the glacier, enjoyed some sunny views and from the hut descended the cable car and drove home

The Aiguilles Marbrées hide the Torino

Looking back: the track across the glacier towards the Geant

Across the Geant Glacier: the Midi on the L and the Chamonix Aiguilles

A closer view :- The Aiguille du Plan (L of centre) with the glacier d'Envers du Plan leading down to the Requin hut, the Blaitiere, Grepon, Charmoz et al further R

2005
I decided to have another go at the Rochefort a year later, but decided we would take the cable car to the Midi and traverse the glaciers to the Torino

map of the traverse

Looking back to the Midi

Tacul's Black triangle

The Chamonix Aiguilles on the L: the Dru, the Verte and les Droites on the R

Further R - the Talefré basin

From just below the Pointe Lachenal the track can be seen heading into a crevassed area: the tall square peak is the Grand Capucin

Among the crevasses - the 3792m Tour Ronde on the L - Mont Blanc behind

Starting to climb towards the col with the rocks at the bottom of the Diables ridge on the R

On the Col Petit Flambeau - under the cables - looking across to the Geant

From the same point looking back towards the Midi and the Plan

The earlier photo from the top of the "easy ground" - the red dots approximate to our traverse route
We set out for the Rochefort again next morning - third time I'd been up the "easy ground"- but I'd eaten something that disagreed with me at the Torino, and had horrendous stomach cramps all day . Every time I made a strenuous move it was agony and I seemed to spend most of the day digging holes in the glacier . We did reach the Aiguille de Rochefort, but I was in no state to continue to the Dôme. Perhaps it's just not "my" mountain. When we got back to the hut I guess we took the cable car back to the Midi and descended. Here are the photos of the ridge that day - I think in the order they were taken - i.e. some looking forward and some looking back: -

Looking down on to the Leschaux glacier which curves round to join the mer de glace

[dav2930]

Great report and fabulous pics Tony. The Dent du Geant is an amazing feature isn't it? Quite surprising that it goes at a relatively modest AD (shame about the fixed ropes, though given your cold hands maybe just as well they were there!). Rebuffat suggests leaving the Geant till later in the day as the normal route faces west. The Rochefort Arete looks superb too with all those gigantic cornices; seems you were a bit jinxed on that one. Makes me want to get back to Chamonix again.

I'd forgotten that Arthur Dolphin was killed on the Geant; obviously not a place to be taken lightly. The tragic story of Emil Rey shooting off a pebble-strewn ledge is awful - makes me cringe to think of it. I once experienced the hazards of small stones and gravel on rock slabs in the Cuillin. My feet shot from under me as if I'd trodden on a sheet of ice. I was lucky enough to escape with nothing more than grazed hands, but had the situation been more exposed I might not be here now. It's something I've been very wary of ever since.

[onsen]

Enjoyed your report...love the detail & fonts in the maps too.

[past my sell by date]

Great report and fabulous pics Tony. The Dent du Geant is an amazing feature isn't it? Quite surprising that it goes at a relatively modest AD (shame about the fixed ropes, though given your cold hands maybe just as well they were there!). Rebuffat suggests leaving the Geant till later in the day as the normal route faces west. The Rochefort Arete looks superb too with all those gigantic cornices; seems you were a bit jinxed on that one. Makes me want to get back to Chamonix again.

I'd forgotten that Arthur Dolphin was killed on the Geant; obviously not a place to be taken lightly. The tragic story of Emil Rey shooting off a pebble-strewn ledge is awful - makes me cringe to think of it. I once experienced the hazards of small stones and gravel on rock slabs in the Cuillin. My feet shot from under me as if I'd trodden on a sheet of ice. I was lucky enough to escape with nothing more than grazed hands, but had the situation been more exposed I might not be here now. It's something I've been very wary of ever since.

Thanks Dave
Yes it would have been nice to do it as a relaxed rock climb in warm dry conditions but that wasn't the way it was My previous partner who was a bit older than me - actually met Arthur Dolphin She was a pretty good climber herself - Leopards Crawl in boots . We did 100 or so Munros together but I could never persuade her to start climbing again

[dav2930]

... My previous partner who was a bit older than me - actually met Arthur Dolphin She was a pretty good climber herself - Leopards Crawl in boots . We did 100 or so Munros together but I could never persuade her to start climbing again

Would love to have met Arthur Dolphin. Leopard's Crawl in boots is no mean feat! Led it in rock shoes back in the 90's and it felt pretty delicate. Saw a fellow who was getting on a bit - pretty sure it was Denis English actually - fall from the crux move near the top of the main pitch. He caught his foot on the rope and came down head first; top runner popped - fortunately a lower runner held and he ended up suspended with his head one foot from the deck. He got on his feet, dusted himself down, muttered something or other and casually untied as if nothing had happened.

[davekermito]

WOW! Another incredible report. Fantastic photos and report - wish I could add something more regarding the walk itself but thanks for sharing.