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From the hill behind my house near the Shropshire/Wales border I can see across the 60km to Cadair Idris and round to the Arans and Berwyns. On a clear day! A couple of days earlier I'd seen that they were snow covered, and with more snow due the day before my jaunt I reckoned I might get an easy snow climb from the back of Llyn Cau up to Craig Cau. So it was crampons and axes packed the night before, coffee flask filled and sandwiches aboard for an prompt start.
The early day was superb, blue sky and no wind, rare and enticing. I turned down the A487 at the Cross Foxes Inn and there she was, the Cadair massif looking majestic with blue sky behind and thin mist clearing. New snow was down to road level, I stopped for a moment to ogle and photograph.
- massif magnificence
Moving on rapidly I was soon away from the Minffordd snow-covered carpark after reluctantly parting with £5. That's up 25% since my visit here 9 years ago, shocking. There is a steep climb from the off, up a good stepped path through woodland alongside the Nant Cadair stream. It was sheltered, and hot going, the sun already melting the snow on this south-facing slope. Down to base layer.
- heading up, looking back
1km later there's a levelling out, past the junction of the later descent route on the right. The path rises gently toward the southern cliffs of Mynydd Moel before turning west and ascending increasingly steeply toward Llyn Cau.
- the path levels, Mynydd Moel cliffs ahead
- looking back
- just about to turn west, looking east to the later descent path
Over the final lip of the cwm and the magnificent sight of the cliff-bound Llyn Cau suddenly comes into view. Superb, although I was amazed to see the amount of cloud that had appeared as if from nowhere, its approach from the south being hidden from view.
- nearly into the cwm
Instead of continuing straight up, I headed toward the Llyn for a mess about up and on the top of a large band of rock, it was not to be resisted. An inspection also revealed that the snow wasn't good enough for the climb I'd hoped for so that plan was abandoned. A drink, snack, layer on and it was away again, retracing my steps for a short distance then cutting the corner on to the Minffordd path once more.
- setting off after messing about on the rocks, the superb cwm and clouding over
- looking back to the east end of the lake and the ascent route to the right
It is a fine path around the edge of the cliffs with views down to the lake and opening up to the south. Yet again I was treated to low-flying fighter aircraft, flying the mach loop following the A487 along the valleys. A couple of F15's and Hawks.
- looking south, still some blue sky
The higher I got the duller it became as the cloud thickened. The snow also became deeper, it was mostly soft new snow so crampons and axe not required, it was increasingly hard going though needing to lift the feet more and more.
- getting higher
I reached the fence and Craig Cwm Amarch summit, over the stile and the way ahead to Cadair is seen. It is down then up again and I was finding it harder work than I'd expected! OK, now the last part up to the summit from the south and views back to the lake again, then we're at the trig point. It was looking very bleak now that the cloud was covering all of the sky, what a change from a little while earlier.
- down ahead, then up to the summit, centre
- looking back to Craig Cwm Amarch
I dropped the sack on the bench in the rime covered shelter and got out the coffee and sandwiches, it was very very good! Had a chat with a walker for a while. When he left I went outside, still eating, there was a chap with a large sack who was wandering the area and wild camping for a couple of nights. He gave me a nip from his hip flask, most welcome as it was very cold now - frozen fingers in a couple of minutes! He set off for the path down to the north, I packed up and got going toward Mynydd Moel, after a stop of about 45 minutes.
- lake from the summit
- summit and lowering cloud
- rimed shelter
I trundled along, slightly downhill over a couple of patches of neve. After only about 10 minutes and on the flat, I suddenly got terrible cramp in the front of my thighs. I tried to continue slowly hoping to work it out of my system but it became worse, I couldn't walk at all. Squatting helped so I sat for 5 minutes and had half a bottle of sports drink. Cautiously back on my feet and slowly onward, it had eased enough to make progress. I was amazed, I'd never experienced this before in any way, and was a bit worried in case the thighs locked up completely. Looking back, in the distance I saw the wild camper following, I assume the path down he'd attempted was too dangerous in the conditions.
- looking back to Cadair summit from the cramp stop
But I didn't want to stop any more so headed on, binning my plan for Mynydd Moel since getting down was the priority, cutting the corner instead to reach the path heading south. There were a set of footprints to follow to make life easier. I reached a stile and crossed the fence, the path then goes down alongside the fence. Then I remembered. After having come down this way 9 years ago, I'd vowed 'never again' on this path of purgatory. I suppose it wasn't too bad really but care was needed in my weakened state.
- cloud descending further, but I'm descending faster!
- cutting the corner
- just before crossing the fence, Tal-y-llyn lake below
A final view of the lake and peaks, now cloud covered, and down to the bridge across the stream to join the early path of ascent. And the cramps came on again! Another long drink and rest then the final 1km down the steps to the start, with no further problems. I took a while walking around the carpark and stretching before driving home.
- last view of Llyn Cau
- looking back up purgatory by the fence
- nearly down to the stream crossing and cramp #2
It was a few days before the thighs felt normal again, or what passes as normal for me. Maybe I hadn't drunk enough in the early, hot stage of the walk. Or rested enough. Hope it doesn't happen again though!