Idwal slabs - there's Hope for me yet

[Riverman]

Late September I managed a weekend in Wales to work on my rock climbing. I travelled up with a friend from London who is a far more experienced rock climber than me. We camped near Capel Curig and on the Saturday we climbed at the Idwal Slabs.

On Hope (VDiff) John led apart from the third pitch which I led - my first time leading a pitch of trad at this grade.

On the Ordinary Route (Diff) I led pitches 2 and 4. Joh led pitches 1 and 3. He would have preferred something harder for our second climb but I need to cut my teeth as a leader on easy stuff.


Another climber at the top of Hope

Walking off left and back round to the bottom was far more involved than I'd expected. First time down I insisted on abseiling one tricky section that John was happy to down climb. Second time round (after Ordinary Route) I managed to down climb that tricky step too.

Next day we'd planned to do a multi pitch route on Tryfan from Heather Terrace but the weather was rotten so we walked behind Tryfan then up the south ridge and down the north. Descending the north ridge was far harder than I remember going up it from 2016.

If only I'd discovered the joys of mountaineering as a kid growing up in the West Midlands rather than waiting until my late 30s! I could've been in Snowdonia every weekend.


Idwal slabs

[Alteknacker]

Great stuff!
"If only I'd discovered the joys of mountaineering as a kid growing up in the West Midlands rather than waiting until my late 30s! I could've been in Snowdonia every weekend."
But you shouldn't complain. After decades of walking and running in the hills, I only discovered the joys of scrambling/climbing when I was 60 .

The Idwal Slabs was one of the first scrambling routes I tackled after this discovery, so I have a very soft spot for them. I remember most vividly arriving at the base at just after 7.00 am, and it looking so intimidating that I had to look away from the slabs as I ate my breakfast! Having finished, I took a deep breath, set off, and just concentrated on getting sound hand and foot holds, and avoiding looking down. It's a good old way to tumble if the worst should happen...

These pics are taken the second time I went up it, this time roping up my brother.

[dav2930]

Nice one!

Idwal Slabs are perfect for learning to lead - not too steep, so you can take your time placing gear.

Hope is my favourite I think (of the one's I've done on the slabs). Tennis Shoe, which we did on a rainy day in big boots and sacks way back in 1981, although more technically interesting, is just a tad contrived.

Plenty of superb classics to look forward to in Snowdonia!

[past my sell by date]

the slabs were polished even in the early 60 s - and there was virtually no protection in those days. In boots I think you had to run up the first 2 or 3 metres of Faith (or it might have been Charity) to reach the first hold and to get off you had to do one of the routes on the Holly Tree wall - which weren't that easy!
And never forget the "ballad"
https://monologues.co.uk/Sport/Idwal_Slabs.htm
" Steer clear of the places that sell you cheap braces, and the fellow who uses soft soap"

[gaffr]

An area that is easily accessible for gaining confidence when moving on rock. Arrived there in the early sixties to find a playground with access to classic lower grade routes, Idwal, Holly tree wall and the slabs above to continue on. A day out moving in the mountains. Very close to where we camped there was Milestone buttress and from the diagonal path several classics on Tryfan….also the grand Amphitheatre Buttress on edge of the Carneddau. All good experiences for exploring into the highlands and beyond.

[Riverman]

Thanks for all the encouraging responses. Being based in Belgium it's nigh on impossible to practice trad leading here but there's lots of sport climbing along the Meuse so I'm hoping to get some more days out there as the weather warms up.

If anyone wants to join me on some easy routes in Snowdonia in the spring, send me a PM as I usually get over from Belgium a few times a year. As a true novice I really, really want to spend a lot of time on Diffs.

Many of the other climbers I meet are generally much more experienced and not interested in such easy routes. I'm happy to second harder stuff but to gain confidence as a leader and to become really slick with my ropework, building belays etc. I want to do that on easy ground!

[past my sell by date]

The trouble with easy climbs is that they have a tendency to get very polished and thus feel quite insecure. I found MVS was a good starting grade as long as it was well protected