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I first went to New Zealand for their Summer from late Nov. 2002 til March 2003 and I've been back twice more. It is the only place I think which might conceivably be - in parts - more beautiful than Scotland , and particularly in South Island involve the toughest walking I have ever done
Steve and Tam a young couple whom I met first in the Austrian Alps and later in the Lakes kindly invited me to base my holiday on their place in Auckland so I started out in North Island and at their suggestion headed first for the Coromandel Peninsula across the Hauraki gulf from Auckland
In New Zealand you have to learn that the East coast is normally to your North, that the South sides of mountains are the cold icy ones, that pine trees are slow growing hardwoods while beech are fast growing softwoods, and also that although the terrain particularly in in North Island has the feel of a "jungle" - it's a totally benign one - there is almost nothing to harm or even irritate you except sandflies which are nothing compared to midges and occur mainly in South Island
Coromandel Peninsula I drove South from Auckland to Thames and then up the West coast of the peninsula to Coromandel town itself, where I stayed in a very comfortable B&B
West coast On the road North from ThamesManaia harbour - about 10km South of Coromandel townLooking North across the harbourEvening views from Papa Aroha further up the coastInlandTotara pineYoung Rimu pineKauri - New Zealand's most famous pine - much sought after by loggers - the few that are left are now protectedThis one - I think New Zealand's biggest - though not in Coromandel - is a seriously large tree Jungle - the foxglove is of course a British immigrantAround the Waiau riverTree ferns growing below taller treesThe Pohutukawa is a common tree hereThe white buds burst into these stunning red flowers Castle RockCastle rock is a 525m high volcanic plug and an easy 2 hour hike, but after 2 recent fatal accidents its Maori owners the Ngāti Huarere have implemented a rāhui, a temporary ritual prohibition - and it's currently off limits First sight through the treesGetting nearerFrom a sub-summitAlong the summit ridgeZoomedLooking down West to Coromandel townThe Coromandel WalkwayIn the very far North East of the peninsula the Coromandel walkway is a near flat coastal walk running North West from Stony bay to Fletcher bay. There is an organised trip whereby you are taken to the start and collected at the other end, but I had no trouble walking on my own and returning by the inland track on the map. The Views are to die for
A small black feral pig charged off down the track and vanished into the woods just after I'd set off
they are quite comon I'm told
Walkway mapFirst view of the East coastStony bayPohutukawas grow prolifically by the seaLooking down into Shag bayand backA panoramic view backAnd on across Poley bayThe track drops quite close to the sea at one pointAn older section of track: the white blossom is Manuka - the tea treeLooking down a valley to Poley bayThe grassy ridge between Poley and Fletcher bays"flat top" island from the end of the walkway: In the distance is Great Barrier islandNew Zealand flaxThe track is reversed to the ridge which then climbs away from the sea: looking down the same gully I think, but from higherHigher stillIt wouldn't be New Zealand without a cabbage tree A lone Pohutukawa in budLooking back down from the high point on the returnIn 2015 Donna and I drove up the west coast to Fletcher bay: the weather was poor, but the huge Pohutukawas on the coast road were amazing
New Zealand's trees are stunning - there are around 300 varieties of broadleafs - which must nearly ten times the number in EuropeCathedral caveGiven the poor weather in 2015, a visit to a beach cave seemed a good idea. Cathedral cave is on the East coast just North of Hahei. There is a ferry from Whitianga, but as I was about to drive on I was told it was only for foot passangers
- so we had to drive round.
Views of the East coast nearbyA rather pretty little boat sailed bySea cliffs around the caveThere is a car park and steps leading down to the beach, but it was all a bit "trippery" for our liking. spectacular none the less
On the beachVarious views through the arch from both directionsDonna finding a convenient resting placeSo that was my first taste of New Zealand - and be assured the rest didn't disappoint