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The Howgills had been on my mind for some time, having passed them several times when travelling up and down the M6. Being reliant on public transport turns even the most humble of walks into adventures, so it was with some excitement that I discovered a friend was driving down the M6 on Friday, and was willing to drop me off at Tebay. After waving goodbye, I popped into the Cross Keys Inn for a pint of Black Sheep before heading into the hills at about 15:30. Cheers!
The weather was gorgeous, and the gentle walk up past Tebay Gill led me to Blease Fell - at last I was on top of the hill I'd seen so many times, and 'wondered about'. Sitting high above the M6, I took a while to enjoy the views, which meant all the way across to the sea because it was such a clear afternoon.
Walking in The Howgills by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
On leaving Blease Fell I followed the 'path" around to Archer Moss and then up to Udale Head, before heading down to Blakethwaite Bottom, and my first taste of descending one of these very steep, grassy hills. They really are steep
I had read that Blakethwaite Bottom makes for a good camping spot, and certainly I took a few minutes to enjoy the absolute solitude, hidden in the valley between the hills, and fill my water bottles, but it was too early to camp so on I plodded - straight up the hillside to Ulgill Rigg, and a thigh-burning exercise it was, too! It was with some relief I reached the cairn at pt.630 and walked the easy path along the top to the first Hewitt, Fell Head.
Walking in The Howgills by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
With the steep-sided, grassy hills, tough ups and downs, but flat and utterly camp-able summits, I felt like I could have been up in the Borders climbing some Donalds. I resisted the urge to stop and camp on Fell Head with it's great views, as it was still early. The next steep little climb was Bush Howe, and of course by now the trig point on The Calf (the highest summit in the Howgill Fells) was in sight. Along the way I took time to enjoy this 'herd of sleeping elephants', as Wainwright likened them.
Walking in The Howgills by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
With it's flat top and lovely views, I decide to camp on The Calf, but first walked on over Bram Rigg Top and to the third Hewitt of the walk, Calders. The view from Calders was magnificent, and I couldn't help but feel it is a shame Calders is simply the sudden end of the broader fell - if the approach from The Calf wasn't so flat I reckon Calders would make for a very striking mountain
After enjoying the views over Hobdale, it was back along to The Calf for something to eat, and a wonderful night's sleep.
Walking in The Howgills by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
After a few hours sleep, I packed-up and headed along the Dales Highway as the sun came up. Since leaving Tebay I had't seen another soul in these hills, and this wouldn't change for the entire length of the walk. Even the sheep were quiet, it was almost incredibly peaceful, and the solitude was unnerving and beautiful at the same time. Leaving the Highway after a short time, it was down the steep but easy path into Bowderdale, with Yarlside looming above me. It looked utterly impenetrable, with the steep, grassy, damp slopes, and I almost gave-up on tackling it. I plodded along until the spot where Hazel Gill, Great Randy Gill and Little Randy Gill meet, then bit the bullet and trudged my way up the still steep, but longer, slopes - Yarlside's backside, if you like. The views from the summit were fabulous, and I was pleased to look down on the famous Cautley Spout, even though I hadn't climbed it or indeed had no plan to descend that way.
Walking in The Howgills by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
Walking in The Howgills by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
With just one Hewitt remaining, Randygill Top, I looked at descent options from Yarlside but chickened-out of walking straight down yet another very steep and slippery slope, so instead followed the path of the south side to pt.590, then gradually contoured my way back around to meet the track that leads up to the saddle under Kensgriff. Another steep ascent, more thigh-burning, more huffing and puffing. It dawned on me that I'd like to return to The Howgills in Winter, I imagine walking these slopes in snow would be quite the adventure...
After one more steep pull, up the slopes of Randygill Top, I reached the summit of the fifth Howgill Hewitt, and had myself a little break (and a celebration of sorts) at the cairn. And still, I hadn't seen another soul.
Walking in The Howgills by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
I opted to carry on to Green Bell, then followed the path down across Knoutberry, and eventually found myself in the beautiful little village of Ravenstonedale. The walk 'proper' was over, but public transport options at weekends were limited (part of the reason I hadn't gone round to Sedbergh, instead) and so I'd booked a ticket from Kirkby Stephen for later in the day. I said my farewells to the fells behind me, and ambled along to the Fat Lamb Inn at Crossbank, which was now open, and I had myself a pint to celebrate what had been a fantastic little adventure, and another five Hewitts climbed. From here, I headed across the wet ground on Kirkby Stephen Common and Wharton Fell (anything is better than blooming road walking!) and emerged on the A683 for the last few hundred yards that took me straight to the station, and a return journey home on one of the prettiest lines around.
Walking in The Howgills by
Christopher Watson, on Flickr
