Benidorm area hikes - Part 1 (Puig Campana, Penyal d'Ifac)

[gld73]

My foreign holidays tend to be fairly nomadic affairs usually, travelling with a backpack around a country or region, staying in hostels or low end hotels as I'm just there to sleep and out all day. Benidorm was, until a few days ago, my idea of holiday hell going on it's reputation .... but the weather for hiking in Scotland hasn't been great this month so as I had a week of leave booked, I had a quick look around for where I could go for some decent walking and was surprised that the Costa Blanca had some good options. And even more surprised that Benidorm looked like it might be a good base, seeing as I wasn't going to be hiring a car and so wanted places within walking distance or local bus routes of wherever I was staying. I flew easyjet Edinburgh to Alicante, got the hourly airport bus to Benidorm, and stayed in the (very decent) hotel above the bus station as I thought it would be handy for getting transport from there. Flight (plus baggage) and 7 nights in a nice hotel (room only) cost me £300, a big plus of travelling so far out of season, yet when it's also good walking weather

From my brief research prior to heading out there, the main aim of the trip was to do Puig Campana, the distinctive 1408m mountain close to Benidorm, but also to do the Sierra Helada ridge/cliff walk from the town. On the other days, I decided once I was out there I'd see what to do.

DAY 1
Arrival day. Flew Edinburgh to Alicante and got off the plane thinking I was still in Scotland. Turned out it was Storm Gloria, the region's worst storm in 35 years. Didn't bode well that the colder weather clothes I'd brought for being at 1400 metres were having to be worn just to go to the hotel! I stayed at the northern end of Benidorm, but inland from all the high rise hotels. Of the 6 hills I went up in 6 days, all could be seen clearly from my (6th floor) room window or from the window on the other side of the corridor - i.e. it turned out I didn't have to venture far from Benidorm to do some good walks.

Puig Campana from my hotel room (Sierra Cortina is the separate lower ridge of hill in front)

DAY 2 (22nd Jan) - FINESTRAT
No actual hills today, but ended up doing a lot of walking. Used the day just to get to know where I'd be starting a couple of the walks from - so the start of the Sierra Helada traverse at the northern end of town, then a walk to find out what bus I should get to Finestrat (start point for Puig Campana). Internet info had been conflicting, the hotel front desk didn't know, bus station didn't know, and I ended up walking the full length of town looking at bus stops to try and work it out. Various people told me more conflicting bus numbers or that there was no service, or only 1 a day. In the end I walked all the way to Finestrat village to get the definitive answer! Bus numbers 14 and 15 I found out. So that was 13km from my hotel to the Font de Moli (start point for the Puig Campana walk), and 13km back again, on a day I thought I'd thought would be a gentle saunter around town. Thank god I'd worn trainers.

DAY 3 (23rd Jan) - PUIG CAMPANA
Second highest peak in the region at 1408 metres, and a very distinctive and impressive mountain which dominates the backdrop to Benidorm. Storm Gloria was well away and the weather was looking pretty good, just some morning cloud low down the mountain but the top clear when I set off to get the bus. (Bus no.14 runs the full length of town, the earliest leaving at 09:15 on weekdays, Bus no.15 only goes to/from the southern end of town and leaves later in the morning, but has later return options than no.14 whose last return one leaves Finestrat at 17:00).

The bus terminates at the crossroads in Finestrat, a convenient place as the walk is then straight up the uphill road to Font de Moli. At Font de Moli you can fill your water bottles (the locals arrive to fill boots full of water bottles, but will let you jump the queue for one or two wee bottles!) and have a look at the map showing the waymarked trails, including the circular route around the mountain, the 2 ascent routes off it, and walks onwards to Polop and further areas. My plan was to go up the difficult route up the front of Puig Campana (the "Vertical Kilometre") and go down the far side by the nicer path. I should have known that any plan I have to stick to a path is going to go wrong at some point.

Signpost to the Vertical Km route

But anyway, it all started well. As I was doing the Vertical Kilometre route up, I took the clockwise route for the circular route, but after a short distance, took the signed path for the Vertical Km. The initial part is quite a steep path through rocky terrain with vegetation around, impressive views to the daunting rockface. I passed a group of 6 spanish men and was keen to put a bit of distance between myself and them for the next part, the steep ascent up the scree gully; I had no desire for them to send rocks flying down on to me, or from me onto them.

I was hoping the cloud would lift, or that the summit would be above the cloud, but for now, I was just looking at that scree gully in the middle, as that was my way up

Photos of the scree gully will never do it justice. It's steep. It can either tackled straight up the scree in a soul destroying 2 steps-up, 1 slide-down manner, or by trying to stick to the sides where the scree is more broken up and there are some trees to try and clamber through (or pull yourself up with). I generally stuck to the right side, I have no idea if that was the best or not.

Part way up the scree gully of the Vertical Kilometre, looking back down. I was still on the right line here at least!

Looking across the slope to try and give a better idea of the angle

The steepness of the ascent meant I could never see how far there was to go - and anyway, I was so focused on where I was putting feet or hands that looking up or around was only possible when I managed to find a point stable enough to stand still on. As I neared the top of the gully I got into cloud and could see even less of the route ahead than I could before.... I started to think I was veering too far to the right if the main path was straight up the scree and so headed left. I really, really shouldn't have. I think by that time I was back on the main route already and the scree had just come to an end at the col, but I couldn't see that, so kept just heading left and up. I remember thinking at the time that I hadn't read anything about scrambling up vertical rock face, but carried on . And on. Until I couldn't go up any more and there was a heart-in-mouth abyss of cloud straight down the other side. With a brief thinning of cloud, I saw a post through the grey and scrambled over towards it, down and up some more vertical rocks, the enjoyable grippiness of the rock being good for clambering on otherwise I'd have probably been cragfast. Got to the wooden post to find it wasn't the waymarker sign at the top of the gully I'd been looking for.

Not where I was meant to be. But I still continued up!

Rather than panic, I sat and waited for cloud to blow away enough for me to get a better idea of where I was, and when I did, I got a shock to see the path below and off in a direction I was too disorientated to expect. I scrambled down from the precarious cliffs, through some gorse-like bushes and made it to the waymark sign post pointing to the summit. Turned out I'd inadvertently gone up the pinnacle ridge on the wrong side of the pass separating the 2 parts of Puig Campana. It was a good kick up the backside for future, that even on a good waymarked trail abroad, I should still take a compass! Thought that was the excitement over with for the day.

Eventually found my way back to where I should have been at the pass - the point where the Vertical Km, the easier path from the northern side, and the path to the summit all meet

Small patches of lingering snow, but nothing to struggle through

So up to the summit which, unfortunately, was smothered in cloud and so only gave me a view of a graffiti covered summit marker (as I came to find over the next few days, graffiti-covered seems to be the default appearance of summit posts in Spain). A few small patches of snow still lingering from Gloria, but not cold enough for me to get out the extra layers I thought I might need at over 1400 metres elevation in January.

The inside of a cloud and a messed up summit marker. Oh well!

The cloud lifted a bit as I made my way back down to the pass, and I got a view of the pinnacle ridge on the other side, that I'd strayed up earlier

Back down to the pass where the Spanish group were having a meal break, and then down the easy zig zagging clear path down the other side of the mountain ...... was the intention. I started on the path. Looking at a map after the event, I realised the path then soon curved round to the right to follow it's nice route downhill. Somehow I missed this (as others had done before me from the worn ground I was initially on). It took me a while to click on that something described as the easy route wasn't going to be steeper and more hair raising than the Vertical Kilometre. Id' given up trying to stay on my feet and was practically sliding down on my back on the steep dirt/scree terrain, clinging on to any rock or branch within reach. It wasn't a good day to have chosen light beige trousers to wear, but that was the least of my worries. I wasn't able to go back up, was scared to go further down, and managed to shuffle over to the side and up onto a ridge of rock which, on the good side, made clear where the path on the nice wooded terrain was on the other side, but on the bad side, made clear I couldn't get to it now and I was going down a gully worse than the one I'd come up.

The start of the clear, relatively easy path back down the north side of the mountain. Only an idiot could lose a path like this

I'm an idiot.This is the only photo I took on my hell-ish near vertical descent, as it was the one time I made it to a stable bit of rock (which turned out to be the rocky ridge down the side of the gully I shouldn't have been in). Looking back over from Ponoig a few days later I realised things had been as bad as they felt!

Eventually I got down to an area where I could get into vegetation instead of steep dirt and scree, but it was dense, prickly stuff and I was going round in circles, deluding myself I could see clearances or paths further up or off to the side. I wasn't actually concerned about getting lost, as I always knew that as long as I headed down, I would eventually come out on the circular path around the mountain at some point, but I spent way longer than needed trying to find less scratchy routes rather than just giving in as I eventually had to and pushing through it. I almost cried with happiness when I stumbled out on to the path. [Looking at the Puig Campana area tourist map later, my descent route, if drawn as a straight line, was a theoretically wonderfully efficient route of descent (the map not having contour lines on it). In practice, when I looked over to it 4 days later on doing the ascent of Ponoig, I felt physically sick seeing what I'd come down].

The joyous moment of emerging out onto a waymarked path, which turned out to be the PR-CV 289 route around the mountain

Easier now to look around and see there's some great scenery to the north, days of good hiking to be had!

But don't follow my feckless example, stick to the main path and Puig Campana is a lovely mountain to do!

View from the path, north of Puig Campana

I headed back round the circular route to the left from where I joined the path (having missed out both the Col del Pouet and passing the wooden refugio shed, so had less than 4km to go back to Font de Moli).

The next no.14 bus was at 5pm, but I was stiff, scratched and and sore, and thought if I sat down in a cafe for the next hour to wait for it, I'd never get up again.... so I just continued walking, all the way back to Benidorm and the hotel again....

By the time I'd left Finestrat and was heading down to Benidorm, the clouds had gone, I'd obviously timed my time at the top badly!

Nice to get Puig Campana done though, even if not as I'd planned.


DAY 4 - PENYAL D'IFAC

It seemed a bit early in the week to be doing the short walk I'd thought of as my "rest day", but after yesterday's escapades I wasn't up to doing any huge distance. Penyal d'Ifac is the impressive craggy lump sticking out from Calp (Calpe) up the coast from Benidorm, now a national park and a hugely popular walk apparently - numbers are limited to 150 people on the rock at any time. Buses run almost hourly between the bus stations of the 2 towns, so it was easy to get to. There are street map displays dotted around Calp, so it's easy to find your way back to the bus station after going up the 332m rock, an ascent which looks impossible to non rock-climbers from face on as you approach.

Penyal D'Ifac from Calp

Being January, queuing to be in the 150 wasn't an issue - on my way up and way back down, I probably passed a total of about 20 people, and not all of those would have gone to the top. The first part of the walk up is nice and easy, on a good path.

Turnstiles at the bottom to make sure only 150 people are in at any time - but no issue in January, straight in and up

Drones are banned :) I know some people love them, but it's a pet hate of mine, being up a hill and wanting to enjoy the views in peace, then a bl**dy drone buzzing around

Things take a step change at the tunnel though - there had been rain overnight and the walking surface gets extremely slippy, I needed to use the ropes and chains attached to the rock at a few points to stay standing (and on a few occasions didn't stay standing). The path zig zags up round the other side of the crag, okay in the parts in the sun where things had dried out, but slow going where things were still damp. Although short, it was a harder walk than I expected, an opinion echoed by a British couple I passed who at least looked like they would make it to the top - I saw other people turning round and heading back.

Into the tunnel, where it goes from the lovely easy path to rock. Horribly slippy rock when there's water running through, I had to cling to the chains to get through

Rocky path, chains or ropes in some of the trickier spots to keep your feet

Looking up to the summit - you approach from the sea side, so the gradient isn't the seemingly impenetrable fortress it appears from Calp

The summit is, again, marked by a graffiti-riddled summit post. It's a lovely viewpoint, though a popular spot for gulls so not necessarily peaceful. (Also not ideal for clambering over the rocks at the top - it's not exactly Bass Rock in East Lothian, but it's got enough fresh guano on it for good chances of splatting your hand in some as I did!)

View from the summit over Calp and to Sierra Bernia

The descent back down was taken slowly, but I still managed to end up on my bum a couple of times. Up and down in under 2hrs, so a short day, but wasn't the quick and easy jaunt I'd expected, though a worthwhile one as an easy day trip and short walk.

Toilets and water fountains at the entrance to the park too (all free entrance).

3 more mountains on the next 3 days, covered in the next report....
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=95070

[Broggy1]

Thanks for sharing this.

I've stayed at the hotel you mentioned in Benidorm and agree that it is extremely well priced and perfect for this kind of thing.

I've always wanted to climb Puig Campana but the kinds of holiday I've been on to Benidorm haven't exactly lent themselves to it. Now as I get older I hope to go back and do it so this report is handy.

[gld73]

If you do go back, something I forgot to mention in the report is "TAKE GLOVES" ! Going up the Vertical Km route (and on some of the other walks I did), there was a lot of hands on rough rock or sharp vegetation, and my hands were saved from quite a rough time by wearing gloves on some sections.

The only bad thing about the hotel was the practically abandoned shopping centre on the floor below it, between the bus station and the hotel. Looked bad, but it was safe enough, and you don't need to go through it anyway. And on the good side, one of the shops that was still there was a Mercadona supermarket, so handy for food

[gaffr]

Hello, a fine area to explore in the off season when not so hot. Went down there a couple of times with friends when we based ourselves in Calpe. We found some really classic climbs on both The Puig Campana and on Penon d'Ilfach….did you get to the Serra Bernia? which is a fine ridge although a rope is needed for the full traverse but by using the tunnel at the Eastern end it is possible to do a circular tour of the range. Much to explore in this area.

[onsen]

Fine looking area to explore, enjoyed your report.

[prog99]

As with Gaffr I know the area well from rock climbing. Looks like you had a great time and I'd recommend a visit to anyone wanting a break from winter.

[Coop]

Great report and well in for not panicking (too much)
I've always thought that some of our more popular hills should have more footwear/jacket advice on them .
Some nice pics especially the one of the pinnacle ridge

[gld73]

Thanks all.

I didn't get to Sierra Bernia, but having now seen it, would love to go back to do that and some others. I'm not a climber, just a walker and very basic scrambler, but some of the places did look like fantastic climbing routes for those more skilled than me!

Definitely an excellent winter walking destination, mild, but never hot.

[past my sell by date]

Yes exciting place the Campana and that scree gully
One time we did the classic VS route there but carried on up to near the Notch - you can see it clearly on one of your pics. A nice path led down - but finished above a vertical drop. A mass of "tat" round a nearby tree showed the way. Two long free abseils brought us into the big scree gully - but without ropes we might still be there
Theres a nice walk round the back of hill as well - past a refugio - brings you evenually to a col just below the Ponoig: You can reach the same point from Echo Valley - and there's another nice hill up there whose name I've forgotten

[gaffr]

Agree that the Espolon Central on Puig Campana is a really classical route....we had a helter-skelter traverse when spots of rain leading to a deluge when we finished the route ….a bit of gear in place for the traverse line to reach the descent gully.
A couple of wee classic worthwhile routes are worth a visit on the Penon d'ilfach that fine plug of rock above Calpe.
That area of Spain is excellant for a holiday whether you walk or scramble up the rock....off season is best for accommodation and for it not too hot.

[past my sell by date]

Agree that the Espolon Central on Puig Campana is a really classical route....we had a helter-skelter traverse when spots of rain leading to a deluge when we finished the route ….a bit of gear in place for the traverse line to reach the descent gully.
A couple of wee classic worthwhile routes are worth a visit on the Penon d'ilfach that fine plug of rock above Calpe.
That area of Spain is excellant for a holiday whether you walk or scramble up the rock....off season is best for accommodation and for it not too hot.

Yes but instead of traversing off R, we carried on above the top of the Espolon - a route recommended by the local climbing family (whose name I've forgotten but they climb E8 or more). It's a massive area and very easy to get totally lost - which we did

[Sgurr]

We find the Sunflower series great for finding out about walks around honeypot winter tourist areas and have done Alicante, Madiera, Majorca and almost all the Canaries using them. Interesting to see what you got up to. Haven't done Benidorm yet, but it is on the list.

In the midst of some IRA scare in the past husband was stopped and rucksack searched and they demanded to know why he needed a balaclava in Majorca. "Part of my standard walking kit" didn't really seem to go down well."

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Costa-Blanca-Tours-Short-Landscapes/dp/185691495X/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Sunflower+benidorm&qid=1582376060&s=books&sr=1-1

[gaffr]

Hello... For P my SB date...local family probably Rowland Edwards and son who preferred the sun in Spain to the rain in Wales.... Quite apart from being top class finders and doers of rock routes.

[past my sell by date]

Hello... For P my SB date...local family probably Rowland Edwards and son who preferred the sun in Spain to the rain in Wales.... Quite apart from being top class finders and doers of rock routes.

Yes those are the ones