Lochaber and Skye Scrambling: 30th April - 4th May

[Wilberforce]

Lo everybody,

Been lurking on this site for a while now, mostly for the brilliant walk reports, but registered today ahead of my first highlands trip (EEEK!) to see if any bods (particularly experienced ones) would be interested in joining me and a couple of pals for a spot of scrambling? We’ll be passing through the Lochaber area on the 30th of April (driving up to Fort William from Langholm) and in Sligachan on Skye from the 1st – 4th May. We have car room, although it will be cosy.

There are 2-3 of us (one is a maybe) who are part of a larger group of walkers (who will definitely not be scrambling). I have a little experience of easy routes in England and Wales (Sharp Edge/Striding Edge/Ill Crag/Daear Ddu/Tryfan’s north ridge) but no Munros and I have only done two Grade 2s; most recently Cam Crag ridge on Rosthwaite – where I struggled at the crux and had to back off it (I was on my own so couldn’t really rope up). My two friends have similarly little experience but steady heads on the baby routes we’ve done.

With the weather gods’ blessing, we’d love to do one of the classic Lochaber scrambles on the 30th and get a taste of the Cuillin whilst on Skye.

For the former, I was initially oogling Aonach Eagach (who wouldn’t?) but the fickle reputation of Highlands weather has put me off. I think we’d be alright in good conditions, but the thought of a sudden squall turning the rock greasy, with sections of exposed down-climbing in either direction is not a happy one. I’d be willing to give it a bash in more experienced company, otherwise it’ll keep for now.

Similar story for the ledges route onto Nevis, due to route finding and how scary the slab by gully no. 5 looks.

CMD Arete seems a more likely option with Ballachulish horseshoe via School House Ridge as a bad weather alternative but we’d be very open to alternatives/suggestions.

On Skye we are aiming to do the Fionn Choire horseshoe (as below but via the NW ridge of Sgurr a Bhasteir). From the SMC guide description I’m confident I can lead that loop, but precious little else in the Cuillin… Scrambles like the tourist route on Sgurr nan Gillean sound awesome, but too spicy without better skills and local knowledge.

https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=35681

Anyway, that’s enough rambling. Let me know if you’re tempted!

[basscadet]

We will be off round about that time, but what we will be doing is anyones guess, and will be totally dependant on the weather. Scrambling is always at the top of the list if the weather is decent though, so will keep in touch.
Not sure much of the AE ridge can be classed as exposed really - lots of little ups and down - prefer one big up myself - far more satisfying! I'd check one of the Buachaille routes out. North ridge being the corker, although there are a few tricky bits, there seemed to be easier ways (certainly the path didn't go the way I went)
Lucky for you you are going to skye, where the rock doesn't have to be dry to have a good time, so you will definately get some scrambling in at some point, although clag can make route finding near impossible, so pray for clear skies

[SummitStupid]

By "Tourist Route" on Gillean I assume you mean the south-east ridge? It's really not that difficult. I remember one moderately taxing move to get up a small rock step, and the only real exposure came with the crossing of a little ledge to gain the summit. It was a fun scramble, but certainly grade one. I struggled more getting down (on that rock step bit, and later finding the way down through the rocky flank of the ridge to regain the path back to Sligachan), but again nothing especially difficult. The summit itself is just a breathtaking viewpoint. Really special. Save it for a clear day.

If you were comfortable on Tryfan and Ddaer Ddu, you are certainly capable of giving it a go, and it's never too committing. I'd put it only a little above Crib Goch in terms of difficulty.

[basscadet]

The thing about skye is that there are so many options, if you don't like the bit you are at, traverse a few metres and voila! Looks like the weather will be good for scrambling anyway. I have unfortunately been roped into accompanying my dad on some very dull hills over the next week

[Wilberforce]

Thanks for the replies both!

Taking you up on your suggestion Basscadet and going for curved ridge tomorrow! Weather looks beaut (touch wood). Just a case of whether we can find the start....

Ahh noo bank holiday weekend hijack! I'm sure you'll have a blast with the old man though.

Thanks Summit, that's really good to know. Yes the SE ridge; my SMC guide put me off a little but we'll definitely have a go now if we get the right day...

Enjoy le weekend!