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West Highland Way in Four Days!

West Highland Way in Four Days!


Postby ActiveLouise » Fri Sep 03, 2021 3:34 pm

Date walked: 17/08/2021

Time taken: 4 days

Distance: 150 km

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Day 1

Just a few hours have passed since we set off on our walk yet solid green hills are already in sight. These large mounds of earth sit on either side like a big vibrant hug. They are a reassuring presence on a path that stretches endlessly ahead.

“How many miles have we done now?” I ask, hopefully.

“Seven.” Comes the response. I hesitate for a brief moment of mental Mathematics…

“Only another eighty-nine to go then.”

This group of near-strangers set off only a few hours ago on a journey that will take us along Scotland’s well-known West Highland Way. The path runs for an astonishing 96 miles from Milngavie in East Dunbartonshire to Fort William in the Highlands. Most people are sensible enough to attempt the challenge in five to seven days but our aim is to do it in just four. As we stop for our first, much-welcomed, pit-stop, though, the scale of the challenge hasn’t quite sunk in.

“Have we finished the first section, already?” Someone asks naively.

The reason for pushing our bodies to their walking limits is all in the name of an excellent cause. We are here to raise money for Macmillan Cancer Support. If you were to chat to the individuals trodding along this well-worn path, each would tell you their specific reason for being here. Perhaps it’s for a loved one. Perhaps it’s for themselves. Perhaps they were simply asked to be a part of the event and rose to the challenge laid out. Certainly, like many charities in recent months, Macmillan’s fundraising efforts have been hit hard by the impact of the pandemic and there is a sense now that we are doing our bit to help out.

Day one of the West Highland Way sees us leave the built-up town of Milngavie where we are waved off by an enthusiastic group of supporters in brightly coloured green t-shirts. At this point, we are fueled up on coffee, rolls and a general sense of excitement about what might lie ahead. Legs are fresh, blisters are non-existent and we have been buoyed on by a set of motivational speeches given at the starting line.

“When times get tough, remember the people that would love to be here doing this challenge but cannot be.” The message rings in the ears of many as we take step after step after step.

Very quickly we find ourselves wandering along winding country paths to Drymen where we have another short break, before moving on to the infamous Conic Hill. This would be a steep climb on any day but, with the distance already covered, and the distance that lies ahead, its towering presence is even more menacing. The group stumbles up, gradually spreading out from the caterpillar-like structure we had adopted at the start of the day.

On the plus side, the weather is already being kind to us. At the top of Conic Hill, the shining blue waters of Loch Lomond match the light blue blanket of the sky. We stop for pictures and talk to the families and walkers who ask curiously about the green ribbons attached to our backpacks.

“You must really love walking!” Laughs one man, when I describe the challenge we have ahead of us.

The final stretch of the day takes us from Balmaha, along the shores of Loch Lomond, to Rowardennan where our hostel accommodation waits like a beacon in the trees. This section of the day is only seven miles but it is challenging. Legs are weary now and the terrain is rough. A towering staircase sits mid-way through the route bringing an audible groan from all members of the group.

“Go on without me!” Comes the dramatic call of the walker by my side.

Twenty-seven miles from Milngavie, and nearly nine hours of walking later, we finally stumble into Rowardennan Youth Hostel. We are bewildered and weary but beyond relieved to be here. We are met with hugs and cheers and fist pumps, which together help to bring back the feelings of elation that we felt when setting off this morning. Day one, we tell ourselves now, is finally in the bag.

...

Day 2

Rejuvenated by lots of food, a shower, massages, sleep, plus an alcoholic drink or two, the group sets out to tackle day two of the West Highland Way. By this point we are less strangers and more comrades, having bonded already over the physical challenge set before us. So, we charge out happily from the hostel accommodation, music blaring, selfies shining, ready to see what the day has in store. We were perhaps a little naïve, yet again…

The day’s terrain is harsh and unforgiving. We are forced to clamber over massive boulders and fallen trees, uneven gravel and swollen tree roots. We duck, slide and clamber our way through a corridor of foliage and a route that feels never-ending. From time to time, we emerge from beneath the leaves and try to reassure ourselves that the worst must surely be over. As quickly as we see the land around us, however, we are once again enclosed within the shelter of trees.

Yet, we stop from time to time and take a careful look to our left. Here, just metres away, lie the luscious shores of Loch Lomond. Framed by trees and covered by a beautiful blue sky, it is an idyllic, calming sight.

Day two is more than just a physically challenging walk. By now our bodies are beginning to tire and ache. For some, taking their socks off for a quick reprieve is like stepping into a nightmare as newly-formed blisters stare back with ferocity. Still, I watch with admiration as my walking companions tape up the sores on their feet, dig out their walking poles and push on even when their bodies are yelling for them to stop.

When we do finally begin to walk away from the shores of Loch Lomond, we are met by a short hill climb. It is not a welcome sight after the unforgiving terrain we have all faced today, however, the view at the top makes up for this additional stint of exertion. Here we are offered a different perspective of what is a particularly famous stretch of water. The loch sweeps out into the horizon, with delightful greenery grasping it on either side.

“Look behind you!” I call out to those focusing intently on the steep climb upwards.

“Oh…” They say in shock when they suddenly notice the stunning views to their rear.

The afternoon is fuelled by creamed scones, hugs and words of encouragement as we meander further into remote territory. The path falls up and down in waves with an abundance of trees, hills and rough patches of foliage looming on either side. I flick on some music for a short while and smile as Biffy Clyro yells out with calls of “I AM A MOUNTAIN”…

The day ends with another meander through pine trees and forest tracks. We take it slow, the energy from the start of the day now long gone and replaced with a burning desire to get to the finish line. We reassure ourselves with repeated calls of “nearly there”, even when the reality is the opposite.

Finally, though, we emerge out of the trees to see a little van waiting by the road to collect us. We have, I think, never been so excited to see a vehicle before in our lives and a bright cheer suddenly lights up from the group. As we slump down within its confines, a new realisation hits too. With twenty-two miles covered today, we are now halfway through the challenge. That feels almost as great as the cushioned seats we are now perked on.

...

Day 3

The clouds sit low in the sky this morning as we begin day three of our West Highland Way challenge. They smother the tips of the hills around us and seem to bring forth the possibility of rain. We’re halfway through the walk now, though, and there’s little that will prevent us from reaching that finish line in Fort William. So, we trudge on.

Chatter flutters through the group as we make our way along a steady, level path from Kirkton, through Tyndrum, and towards Bridge of Orchy. These conversations offer a welcome distraction from any aches and pains, whilst the words of encouragement being dispersed undoubtedly spur everyone on. After two days of walking, we have acclimatised to the task at hand and so we begin to spread out and meander on at a pace that suits us individually.

We are around ten miles into day three when we suddenly stumble upon a sight as welcome as I presume that finish line in Fort William will be. There, nestled into Bridge of Orchy train station, are our amazing support team with a BBQ already on the go. There’s an abundance of cakes, spiced chicken and even a glass or two of prosecco. Music calls out from a speaker and a Macmillan banner or two decorate the otherwise plainly station. Everyone quickly pulls off their walking boots, stocks up on food and gets comfortable.

“Is that us halfway through the day already?” We ask each other with disbelief.

Once the food has been polished off and the shoes reattached to despairing feet, it is time to see what the afternoon has in store. We are sad to say goodbye to the BBQ but there are another twelve miles or so to cover today and so we must press on. The music from our lively little party gradually fades as we step back onto the West Highland Way on route to Inverarnan and then onto Rannoch Moor.

The first section of the afternoon offers up stunning views of Loch Tulla and the surrounding countryside. The distance passes pleasantly at this point as we become distracted by the brilliant visuals around us. Or perhaps that’s just my perspective. Those with blazing blisters and throbbing injuries will probably say differently…

In Inverarnan I offer my apple to a curious deer and laugh as it tries to take it from my hand. I am laughing no longer, however, when I realise that’s one less precious snack that I will have for the many miles I still need to cover today…

After Inverarnan we arrive in Rannoch Moor, a vast expanse of wilderness where the path sweeps ahead of us in an intimidating line. The route is largely flat but the area still offers new challenges to tackle. The surface underneath is rough and sore on what are already tired feet, whilst the track itself drags on endlessly. Once again, though, we trod on regardless.

Finally, after what feels like an age, our endpoint for the day comes into sight. Today we are aiming for the Kingshouse Hotel which sits alone in Glencoe with only the surrounding hills for company. My walking companions pick up the pace now, spurred on by the promise of a pint and a seat outside the hotel. Arms fly and backpacks bounce as their tired legs carry them to the finish line.

When we eventually get there, those much-anticipated alcoholic drinks are quickly ordered. We clink glasses together and take yet another selfie or two to mark the occasion. In doing so, we are hit by a brand a new realisation. With 22 miles covered today, we are now only one day away from completing the West Highland Way. We can do this, we tell each other, and it is true.

...

Day 4

It is around 7 am when we set off to complete the final 24 miles of the West Highland Way. Despite the early hour, there is a buzz of enthusiasm and energy among the group. The finish line may not be visible yet, but there is a definite sense of anticipation around the fact that we should soon cross over it. We keep thoughts of it in our mind as the midges batter our skin, as the blisters pound in our shoes and as the cloudy skies threaten to shower over us.

We take our first purposeful steps of the day from Kingshouse where the dominant peaks of Glencoe loom over the group. As I wander along, chatting away and photographing the scenes, I feel entirely in awe of this natural space. Here it is easy to feel small, almost swallowed whole, by the fierce hills on either side.

It is a comfortable three miles before we hit the threateningly named ‘Devil’s Staircase’. Here the path towers ahead of us in a zig-zagging incline. Voices groan and swear, whilst strong legs heave tired bodies upwards.

“Hey, this isn’t as bad as I thought it might be…” says my walking partner, before the path suddenly steepens further.

“You spoke too soon,” I reply plainly.

At the top of the hill, there’s another photo opportunity to be had and it’s a good one. Purple heather sits delicately in the foreground, whilst those grand, rocky hills of Glencoe command the background. Having made such a huge effort to get to this peak, I am sad to move on. Still, as always, the challenge must continue.

For the rest of the morning, we meander on slowly. From time to time I stop, look forwards, and then back, before continuing on the path. Later I might not remember the details of every peak and fall in the rugged earth so I do my best to savor it now.

The first stop of the day is in Kinlochleven where, once again, our support team are out in force to supply much-welcomed teas, coffees and home baking. At this point, I greedily feast on my lunch before realising it’s actually only 10.30 in the morning…

Once appetites have been satisfied, blisters addressed, and snack pockets re-stocked for later in the day, we leave the support team with a wave of thanks. The sweet taste of tablet doesn’t have time to leave our mouths, though, before another challenge crops up. Yes, it is another hill.

We climb steadily, amazed that our tired bodies still have the energy to move upwards. At the top, our reward is a stunning view of Loch Leven as it stretches out into the distance.

“There are no big hills after this.” Someone calls out, and a sigh of relief leaks loudly from the group.

Throughout the afternoon, as we ramble along meandering paths, we begin to reflect on our experience so far. There’s a definite sense of pride and achievement. A feeling that we are doing some special and unique. Yet, no one can quite comprehend the sheer distance covered. It may take time for that to sink in.

“I feel like I have been away forever!” One woman explains, and I wonder if the complete escape from reality and technology, which is provided here on the West Highland Way, may be to blame.

After another quick break later in the afternoon, our reliable band of supporters are there to see us off for the final seven miles of the day. We are given hugs and words of support (and even a cider or two) to help us through.

“See you in Fort William!” they say, as we disappear over the hills once again.

We bound out of the pit-stop, fueled now by the feeling that our final destination is in sight. What we fail to realise, though, is that 7 miles is quite a long way when you have already walked eighty-nine! The section drags on.

After a while, we step over the peak of a hill and get our first glimpse of Fort William. It provides another boost of enthusiasm and so the legs propel the body faster. At this point, though, the town is a tease. It sits within sight, yet never seems to get any closer.

“Why are we not there already?” We complain to the quiet countryside air.

It does come though. Eventually, we reach a pavement leading to the town and soon after we are in the town itself. After 96 miles, and four days of walking, pure relief and adrenaline keep the legs powering to the finish line where our team stand waiting.

As we walk along Fort William High Street, we soon see a few green Macmillan t-shirts waiting in the distance. They are waving and cheering, willing us on for the final few metres. More supporters dressed in green spill onto the street as we gradually approach the finish. The claps and whoops grow louder and soon we are just seconds away. Caught up in the enthusiasm, we switch to slow trot until that finish line sits right in front of our toes. Once there, we hop gently over and in that short moment, the challenge is complete. We have walked the West Highland Way.

The minutes that follow are a blur. I seem to move in a daze, my body and mind unsure how to act now that I don’t have the task of walking to focus on. I hug dozens of different people without actually knowing who is on the receiving end. I say a hundred thank yous to those around me, when what I really want to convey goes much deeper.

When all medals have been placed proudly on front, and all throats are dry from cheering, the group pauses for one final photograph. Tired eyes look out, but it is the brilliant grins that you will notice most. In that last image, so much joy and pride shine out.
Attachments
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A tantalising view of Fort William
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Leaving the Glencoe area on day 4
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Beautiful views on day 3
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Walking along by Loch Lomond on day 2
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Views from Conic Hill on day 1
ActiveLouise
Walker
 
Posts: 12
Munros:26   Corbetts:1
Joined: Aug 4, 2021

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