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The East Highland Way - backpacking over 5 days

The East Highland Way - backpacking over 5 days


Postby andrewl7642 » Mon Sep 16, 2013 12:02 pm

Route description: East Highland Way

Date walked: 12/08/2013

Time taken: 5 days

Distance: 131 km

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After adventuring on the Great Glen, South Loch Ness, The West Highlands and a section of the Southern Uplands, my next long distance trek was to be the East Highland Way.

It was to be completed over 5-6 days, backpacking and camping in the wilderness.

It would be much more of a challenge than my previous hikes, as for the first time I would be carrying all my camping gear in my backpack for a period of more than 2 days. It was also to be the first long distance route navigated without the use of Way Markers, however I had planned ahead by purchasing a compass and a copy of the Guide Book.

Unfortunately my usual trekking buddy wasn't available to join me on this occasion so I put an ad online and it wasn't long before the emails came flowing in. There were numerous responses but it narrowed down to just 2 other people who were as keen on the trek as I was.

A month or so passed and all the arrangements had been discussed and finalized. We would begin the hike on the Monday morning of 12 August 2013 and finish on the Friday evening/Saturday morning.

So after much anticipation the 12 August finally arrived. The weekend was spent camping with friends at Loch Lomond before heading on up to Fort William on Sunday evening. I checked into my accommodation then went to meet my new buddies for a pint (or three) at The Great Glen (Weatherspoons).

After an enjoyable evening, we returned there in the morning for a delicious full Scottish Breakfast (A full english breakfast in disguise), before heading out of town and into the wilderness... :crazy:



DAY 1 - FORT WILLIAM TO ACHLUACHRACH

01.jpg
Starting the East Highland Way from the West Highland Way end point


02.JPG
Heading off into the wilderness


It wasn't long before we arrived at our first destination, Spean Bridge, just in time for lunch. It was peeing it down and we looked like drowned rats, we took cover in the Commando Bar, where the menu had a wide variety of food on offer from Fish and Chips to Fish and Chips. It was a difficult decision but in the end I settled for Fish and Chips. We waited for the monsoon to die down before creeping back outside and venturning about a mile uphill to see the Commando Memorial. It was then back downhill to get supplies from the local shop before carrying on towards Tulloch.

03.JPG
Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge


It was a long wet hike through woodland, farmland and countryside. We found our first way marker after about 9 miles into the walk, always good to know we're on the right track.

04.JPG
The first East Highland Way marker, not many of these!


05.JPG
heading off into the country


We weren't going to make it as far as Tulloch, we were about half a mile from Achluachrach and decided to call it day. We didn't know if there was a camping area in Achluachrach so we just carried on walking eastwards, following the river Spean towards the ruins of Achnacochine, where we could try to find a camping spot by the river.

06.JPG
the river Spean suspension bridge at Monessie Gorge


After following the river Spean for about a mile, we found the perfect little spot to set up camp. Luckily the rain held off for a bit, while we got the tents up but it wasn't long before the rain was back on for the rest of the night.
There was nothing to do but retire for the night, but after walking 18 miles, I think that is all we wanted to do anyway.

07.JPG
Camping spot by the river Spean


DAY 2 - ACHLUACHRACH TO EAST LOCH LAGGAN

Day 2 arrived, it had been a peaceful night by the river. We got up bright and early and had Breakfast before packing up our gear, burning our rubbish and heading for the hills. The rain had finally stopped.

08.JPG
Gary and Pete by the ruins of Achnacochine


We passed the ruins of Achnacochine and soon had to cross the stoney burn of Allt nam Bruach. There was no bridge so it was a case of finding a suitable place to cross. As I began to step across some stones, I under estimated the weight of my rucksack, lost my balance and fell in the burn, hurting my hand and soaking myself as far as my hips. Luckily no pictures were taken!!

Feeling refreshed from a dose of comedy, we pressed on, up through the forest (currently undergoing deforestation), now with very wet feet heading towards Feagour, passing Inverlair, Tulloch and Moy Bridge. It was a very long tiring day of forest tracks and road walking, not easy on the feet (especially wet ones!).
After miles of forest tracks we eventually reached the west end of Loch Laggan.

09.JPG
approaching Loch Laggan from the west


It was time for a quick break before the next long stretch to the east side of the loch, where we would hopefully be able to set up camp. It turned out to be a nice evening as we were presented with some terrific views of the Loch and its sandy beach.

10.JPG
Loch Laggan from the east side


We eventually reached the wild camping area at the east side of the loch with plenty of time to spare before dark.
We got our tents pitched and explored the area, finding a water source, and firing up the stove with not a soul in sight. It was a very peaceful night and stayed dry right through.

11.JPG
Wild camping area at East Loch Laggan


DAY 3 - EAST LOCH LAGGAN TO DALNASHALLAG BOTHY

Wednesday morning arrived and soon there was to be only two.
We packed up and got on our way, we had some trouble finding our bearings to begin with and headed off in the wrong direction, not the wrong direction as such, but towards the motorway instead of the countryside. We had to backtrack about a mile or so to get back onto the East Highland Way route, unfortunately one of our group didn't like the idea of going back the way. It was at that point he went off on his own, via the roadside, we felt bad leaving him but it was his choice. We expected to see him again once we reached Laggan.

So the team of two took the East Highland Way through the countryside heading for Laggan, passing Pattack Falls and Feagour before a quick detour to the Wolftrax Cafe for lunch. The little outdoor cafe was a sight for sore eyes, it's amazing just how delicious a Bacon & Egg Roll and a Cup of Tea with Milk can taste when you're living in the wild. Truly luxury!

14.JPG
Pattack Falls


Full of beans, we made our way back up the hill and back onto the route, passing Spey Dam. From here it was a 3 mile descent through woodland and around country roads to reach Laggan village. It turned out to be a grand afternoon and even required Sunscreen.

12.JPG
Spey Dam


13.JPG
first views of Laggan village


We reached Laggan late afternoon, no sign of Gary but there was still plenty of time to find a pub before the evening hike to Dalnashallag Bothy. We made our way to The Monarch for a much deserved Pint (or two). It was a nice place but apparently now closed, probably due to the high prices that were encountered.

15.JPG
The Monarch where it's £5.00 for a bottle of 4% Crabbies... certainly made me crabby!


We made our way out of Laggan and back into the country, heading for Dalnashallag Bothy. We passed through some old farmland with some boarded up stables and crofts, then as the rain arrived it was a cold, wet, misty trek across the heather moorlands and through the mountains to finally reach Dalnashallag Bothy... and what a relief that was!

16.JPG
Dalnashallig Bothy ... home sweet home


With about 2 hours of daylight left we got the fire going, clothes dried, noodles on the boil and our feet up, all refreshed and ready for day 4.

17.jpg
Inside Dalnashallag Bothy, fire on feet up


DAY 4 - DALNASHALLAG BOTHY TO KINGUSSIE

Thursday morning arrived, it had rained through much of the night, it was good to know there was no tent to take down. Had a Coffee and Porridge, signed the bothy guestbook and made our way out of the mountains towards Newtonmore.

The sky had cleared and we now had some spectacular views of the mountains and beyond. It was about 5 miles to Newtonmore, it mostly stayed dry. Once reaching the outskirts of Newtonmore, we kept an eye out for Scottish Wildcats, there were many to be found as we passed through the town...

18.JPG
rare species of scottish wildcat


We got supplies from the Co-Op and paid the Highland Folk Museum a visit before the next stage to Kingussie.

19.JPG
Thatched Highland Cottage at the Highland Folk Museum


There was much variety in terrain and environment during the next stage, as we were led through Woodland, farmland, across heather moorland and around Loch Gynack into more woodland, before eventually arriving at Kingussie. It was then a quick pint in the Silverfjord before hitting the road towards Kincraig... or wherever we were going to end up!

It was early evening we left Kingussie, it turned out to be a lovely evening as we stopped for a photo shoot at Ruthven Barracks.

20.JPG
Ruthven Barracks 1 mile out of Kingussie


We then carried on walking along the B970 for a short distance to reach the Insh Marshes RSPB Reserve, where we followed the Invertromie Trail to find a perfect wild camping spot by the river Tromie. We set up camp, and had our grub before the sun went down. Once again it was a peaceful night and not another soul in sight. It also stayed dry =:)

21.JPG
Great little camping spot by the river Tromie


DAY 5 - KINGUSSIE TO AVIEMORE

The final day arrived with just 18 miles to go, and still no sign of Gary!
We spent the morning walking to Loch Insh Watersports Centre where we grabbed some Breakfast at the Cafe before a couple of miles stroll to the shop at Kincraig for supplies. From the outskirts of Kincraig it was then just 10 miles to Aviemore!!

25.JPG
Loch Insh Watersports Centre


So it was off on the final stretch to Aviemore, visiting the Frank Bruce Sculpture Park and passing the Island Castle of Loch an Eilein and Inshriach bothy. We had the enjoyment of wild Raspberries along the way.

22.JPG
Sculpture at the Sculpture Park


23.JPG
Swimmers at the Island Castle of Loch an Eilein


The weather stayed dry and we finally reached Aviemore late afternoon, plenty of time to check in at the campsite before heading into the town for Beers, Beers and more Beers.

24.JPG
Rothiemarchus Campsite at Aviemore


So, It was a long tracherous hike through the Scottish Wilderness. I got rained on, attacked by Midges, hounded by Wolves, chased by Wild Cats and haunted by Bothy ghosts. I even fell in the river, while escaping a roaring Bear, but at the end of the day, it was worth it, just for that experience and adventure of surviving the Scottish Wilderness!

Overall it was a great hike, weather wasn't too bad, there weren't many hills, the ground wasn't boggy. There aren't many waymarkers but the EHW guide book kept us on the correct route and If I have the opportunity to walk it again, I will, most likely in the heat of summer but with different company, just for the change. Would probably make it a long one and continue onto the Speyside Way, right on up to Buckie. That was my original plan but due to work, I had to delay the Speyside Way until September. See my other reports for The Speyside Way.

Please leave your comments below and throw any spare change you may have in the tips jar! Thank You and hope you enjoyed my report, which took me nearly a whole day to write!! Just for Walk Highlands and all the adventurers out there!
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Last edited by andrewl7642 on Mon Aug 22, 2016 6:35 pm, edited 11 times in total.
andrewl7642
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Re: The East Highland Way in 5 days (August 2013)

Postby andrewl7642 » Thu Nov 07, 2013 2:13 am

Full report completed 7/11/13, edited on 17/11/13. Enjoy and please leave your comments. :)
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Re: The East Highland Way - backpacking over 5 days

Postby Ross deWalk » Sat May 21, 2016 11:15 am

Just finished this walk using your camping spots :wink: Thanks for the review!
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Re: The East Highland Way - backpacking over 5 days

Postby dinnadoit » Tue Jun 07, 2016 12:40 pm

Tremendous account. I'm sure its not only me that wants to know what happened to Gary. :wink:
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Re: The East Highland Way - backpacking over 5 days

Postby andrewl7642 » Thu Jun 09, 2016 8:13 pm

Haha glad to be of service, Ross.

Dinnadolt - I think Gary head for the hills, the EHW was not enough of a challenge for him.
He is busy completing all the munros these days.
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Re: The East Highland Way - backpacking over 5 days

Postby FiferStu » Fri Jul 19, 2019 7:50 pm

Thanks, Andrew, for that interesting account. Although a little shorter, it sounds more of a challenge than the West Highland Way. Would you say it was? I'm assuming of course that you've walked the WHW!
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Re: The East Highland Way - backpacking over 5 days

Postby Paulmccaffrey » Thu Apr 21, 2022 3:39 pm

Great post Andrew, really helpful for my preperation to do the walk at the end of May. What was the water situation with the lack of shops/facilities on the route, is it best just using the river?
Thanks
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