Read other users walk reports for the long distance trails - and add your own.

NB. This board is for reports on multi-day long distance routes - reports on simply long walks should be added to the standard boards.
Warning Please note that hillwalking when there is snow lying requires an ice-axe, crampons and the knowledge, experience and skill to use them correctly. Summer routes may not be viable or appropriate in winter. See winter information on our skills and safety pages for more information.

Two Women and a Welshman on the Cape Wrath Trail

Two Women and a Welshman on the Cape Wrath Trail

Postby walk aboot » Wed Jun 11, 2014 12:26 pm

Route description: Cape Wrath Trail

Date walked: 11/06/2014

Time taken: 7 days

8 people think this report is great.
Register or Login
free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).

Walking part of the Cape Wrath Trail Inverbroom to Strathan over 7 days

Mr and Mrs Mountainstar journeyed up from Wales on Friday and stayed overnight in my flat in Glasgow. I left two eggs and a packet of yum yums out for breakfast because that’s how I roll.

On Saturday we headed up to Ullapool and collected our fourth person, Jane, on the way. Jane had been staying with her sister a few miles from Perth. Jane wasn’t impressed that we stopped for our first of two toilet and cuppa breaks in Perth, three minutes into her journey.

We stayed in Ullapool overnight and enjoyed a wee pub crawl. Mountainstar (Alan) was mulling over the range of ales in the Ferry Boat Inn when he said, ‘Oh I’d like to taste a Brazilian…’ Mrs Mountainstar (Ele) elbowed him in the ribs and told him he was having a pint of sheep sha**er.

1 Ullapool.jpg

Day 1: Inverbroom to Shenavall Bothy 9.4 miles

Jane, Alan and I walked with our day packs as far as Dundonell (4.7 miles), where we met up with Ele to collect our rucksacks (Ele was spending the week sightseeing in between driving us to and from walk points). I got a great view of a cuckoo perched on a cable here.

We walked into Shenavall Bothy and caught up with our good friend, Monty (Colin), and his guitar. We were joined in the bothy by Rich; a guy from Hollywood who was taking a break from filming Ben Affleck’s new movie, Gone Girl (Rich was the lead man, which means he was the person responsible for designing the sets on the film).

1 Deer at Shenavall Bothy 2.jpg
Day 1 Deer at the Bothy

Colin (who was staying for his second night) said there had been about twenty others in the bothy the night before; four of whom were rescued by helicopter due to the river swelling and not being able to get back across after their walks.

After a great evening of sing-song and bothy fire banter we settled down for the night in our sleeping bags.
‘Are you wearing your ear plugs, Alan?’
‘What’s that? I couldn’t hear you because I was wearing my ear plugs’.

Day 2: Shenavall Bothy to Kinlochewe 15.7 miles

2 Shenavall Bothy.jpg
Day 2 Shenavall Bothy

Alan’s dream of walking for a week with not one but two women quickly evaporated:
‘How far is it now, Alan?’
‘Can we stop for a break, I’m thirsty?’
‘Can we stop for another break, my feet are sore.’
He started walking a mile ahead of us, just to get away from the nagging.

We caught up with Ele at Kinlochewe and spent the night in Torridon Youth Hostel.

Day 3: Torridon to Lochcarron 8.5 miles

This mountain pass walk was a highlight for us (I would walk this again in a minute). Alan was still walking a mile ahead on his own when he spotted a golden eagle. He shouted over to us to see it, but we were on a different path and walking in the opposite direction.
‘What are you doing over there?’
‘We don’t know.’

When we arrived in Lochcarron I was on the lookout for ospreys (I had seen one here before a few years ago). The campsite was closed so Alan and Jane had to book into Jerry’s hostel at Achnashellach instead. Ele and I were staying with Hilary and Dave at their Achnashellach Station House B&B. I have stayed with Hilary and Dave before, as they have a family of pine martens visit their kitchen window in the evenings for jam and biscuits.

2 Felicity.jpg
Day 3 Felicity the Pine Marten

Alan and Jane came to the Station House in the evening for dinner, and Jane in particular was glad to get a few hours away from Jerry and his hostel. Jerry is well known for his oddities (walking around in his underpants sort of thing). I wanted to meet the character for myself (I like bonkers folk) but there was no time or opportunity.

Hilary and Dave told me about an osprey nest on a telegraph pole in the area but again, there was no time or opportunity to see it.

We did visit a local hotel after dinner for a couple of pints of ale. Alan insisted there definitely was time and opportunity for that.

Day 4: Attadale to Loch Duich 11.1 miles

I skived off this walk and spent the day visiting gift and coffee shops with Ele. It rained on Alan and Jane all day.

We stayed at the bunkhouse at the Kintail Hotel, where we had a great meal and got chatting to a fellow female walker about knitting (poor Alan was really knocking the pints of ale back by this time). The Kintail wild goats were outside the hotel, so I enjoyed watching and photographing them.

4 Kintail Wild Goat.jpg
Day 4 Kintail Wild Goat

Day 5: Glen Shiel to Kinloch Hourn 7.8 miles

This was another great day walking a mountain pass. Our friends, Carol and Keith, met us at Kinloch Hourn in their van and treated us to a campfire barbeque.

Day 6: Kinloch Hourn to Sourlies Bothy 14.1 miles

This was an awesome scenery walk but a hard, hard slog walking through bog for most of the way. It took Carol, Shaba (Carol’s boss’s dog), Jane and I hours and hours and hours to walk this, and we didn’t reach the bothy until 9pm.

6 Janet Alan Jane Carol and Saba at Kinloch Hourn.jpg
Day 6 Leaving Kinloch Hourn

At the bothy there was a friendly couple of lads (one of whom slept through 7 hours of the 8 or 9 hours we spent there, snoring loudly), and two couples. Carol asked the couples if they minded the dog being there and three of the four of them said they did. We didn’t say anything but we did sneak a cheeky wee smile to each other. Sourlies Bothy is known for its smoky chimney, so we lit the fire and told them we had carried enough peat bricks in with us to last until morning. We had to sleep with the door open so we didn’t kill ourselves with the fumes, but the two couples slept in their tents outside instead.

6 Saba at Sourlies Bothy.jpg
Day 7 Saba at Sourlies Bothy

Day 7: Sourlies Bothy to Stathan 8 miles

The last day was another hard slog walking through bog but again, the scenery was awesome. Most of this walk was spent with Jane cursing me for waking everyone up at 5am, me cursing Alan for planning the route in the first place, and Carol trying to take our minds off everything by pointing out and naming all of the wildflowers. Keith and Ele were waiting for us in Strathan with a welcome cup of tea and sandwiches, and then we all packed up and headed to Glencoe for a celebratory end of walk drink in the Clachaig.

Alan has sobered up since getting over the trauma of walking with us, and we hear he is now doing pretty well in rehab.

Three shadows.jpg
Day 7 Three Shadows
Last edited by walk aboot on Thu Jun 12, 2014 9:31 am, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
walk aboot
Posts: 2465
Munros:36   Corbetts:4
Wainwrights:2   Islands:27
Joined: Feb 12, 2009
Location: Glasgow

Re: Two Women and a Welshman on the Cape Wrath Trail

Postby mountainstar » Wed Jun 11, 2014 1:06 pm

They let me out of rehab for a few days with my carer. Luckily I have escaped and am on a bus to head for SOLITUDE in the Cairngorms. Strangely no one I ask on the bus has seen my camel!
I wonder if they sell that lovely Brazilian ale on the Cairngorm Hotel..I recall it tasted slightly fishy :-)

Great report Janet. I hope you have recovered from the pain and blanked out the agony, as part 2 beckons next year. :-)
User avatar
Posts: 2507
Munros:282   Corbetts:221
Fionas:24   Donalds:8
Sub 2000:20   Hewitts:217
Wainwrights:214   Islands:24
Joined: Dec 7, 2009
Location: Wrexham

Re: Two Women and a Welshman on the Cape Wrath Trail

Postby calamityjane » Wed Jun 11, 2014 2:07 pm

Ha ha!! Great report Janet, makes me wish I had been on this trip!!! :?
Posts: 12
Joined: Jul 5, 2011

Re: Two Women and a Welshman on the Cape Wrath Trail

Postby mrssanta » Wed Jun 25, 2014 11:26 pm

Oh I really enjoyed that
User avatar
Mountain Walker
Posts: 3132
Munros:281   Corbetts:12
Sub 2000:10   Hewitts:43
Wainwrights:41   Islands:13
Joined: Jul 18, 2011
Location: north yorkshire moors

Re: Two Women and a Welshman on the Cape Wrath Trail

Postby auldpete » Thu Sep 11, 2014 8:54 pm

Hill Bagger
Posts: 3
Joined: Aug 4, 2013

8 people think this report is great.
Register or Login
free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).

Can you help support Walkhighlands?

Our forum is free from adverts - your generosity keeps it running.
Can you help support Walkhighlands and this community by donating by direct debit?

Return to Walk reports - Long Distance routes

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests