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Monday 1st August
Edale to Crowden 16 miles
Monday morning dawned and it was off to the train station in Newcastle to get the train to Sheffield and onward train to Edale. I had booked the tickets some 10 weeks earlier at a cost of £18 so if I backed out I wasn't loosing much. I had done a bit of reading up on the PW but being unfamiliar with the ground the names and areas didn't mean much, unlike when I was doing the CWT last May where I was crossing ground I knew fairly well and was able to judge distances and times quite easily. In terms of walking I'd never been to the Peak or Dales so everything was new. I had originally planned to do the PW in 13 days and in truth I underestimated the ground and conditions over the mileage between various points and valleys. I hadn't booked any accommodation intending to wild camp where possible. After doing the reading up I started up with 3 days food and intended re stocking where the OS AZ maps and trailblazer book indicated there was a shop. The connecting train to Edale was 45 mins late and it was 13.40 by the time I set off from Edale intending to do the first stage that day. I set off at a fair pace and found myself on top of Kinder Scout within 1hr 30mins after coming via Jacobs ladder. The first thing I had noticed was the scarcity of decent water. I never carry water when backpacking in Scotland or the Lakes and soon found that what water there was around was a brown peaty slow moving stream which didn't look the least inviting. Carried on around Kinder downfall and onto Mill hill soon getting to Snakes pass before the ascent to Bleaklow head which I was very disappointed with . The original idea had been to wild camp on the first day somewhere on the drop down to Crowden so I started to look as I descended. I didn't see anything suitable so started to ring the CC camp site to ensure I could get booked in but it went to answerphone. I did try a BB but it was too expensive so I walked onto the CC site which had plenty of space. Got there at 20.30hrs , just under 7 hrs for the first day. Unpacking my sack I was disappointed to see that a tin of deodorant had discharged into my sleeping bag and mat which were packed next to it and shower gel had cracked open into a t shirt. My sleeping gear smelt lovely! darkness came around 10pm so it was straight to bed to be kept awake by 2 French lads who talked until 23.10 when I told them to shut up, which they did!
Tuesday 2nd August.
Crowden to White house PH 17.5 miles.
This was day 2 of my original wild camp 13 day plan. I had read of the wild camping possibilities around The White House PH in the Trailblazer book so intended to get to those. Set off from the valley and up onto Laddow rocks and onwards to Black hill meeting on the way another PW walker Gary and his son and mate. I was to be with them on and off for the next 10 days. The weather had started a bit overcast but became misty over Black hill only clearing as I dropped down to the first set of reservoirs around Wessenden. I wasn't enjoying the day, maybe it was a combination of the weather, sore feet and heavy pack and I wasn't enjoying the scenery. I continued over the moors and got to Stanedge around 14.30. I had considered staying at the carriage house but it was too early so I stopped for 30 mins to take the boots off. Gary and troop went on. I then continued on using the Oldham way disliking the constant noise of traffic, airplanes and constant site of the Greater Manchester area. Not long after the mist came down and it started to rain heavily adding to my mood. To add to that I miscalculated where the White House was, I thought it was shy of the M62 and was a bit narked when I realised that I had to walk further. Passing the A672 where I was informed there is sometimes a snack van but alas not today, past some rubbish and over the M62 to go over Blackstone edge. As I dropped down to where a wild camping spot was indicated I was disappointed to find it overgrown and with no water supply and virtually behind a house, not my idea of a wild camp spot. I went into the PH near 18.00hrs and found Gary at the bar who was trying to find a BB to no avail. To my surprise a man at the bar insisted twice on buying the drinks for our group and wouldn't accept one in return. Another walker overheard us talking and said we should try up by the reservoir to camp. Water bottles filled by the bar staff I went up to the dam by Blackstone edge reservoir and found a sheltered spot and was joined by Gary. It was the worst day so far, I wasn't enjoying it one bit and was seriously thinking if the storm continued of going to Hebden bridge and going home.
Wednesday 3rd August
White House to Ponden 17.5 miles.
The next day dawned brighter and I walked around the reservoirs on a level path towards Stoodley pike trying to identify a wild camping spot indicated in the book. It was something I was to notice over the coming days that spots that I thought were superb wild camp spots were not identified whilst those in the book were in my opinion not good. My feet were sore on the balls and I found it painful and tiring to descend from Stoodley pike. Got down to the valley. At this stage the sun was out and it was down to T shirt so I continued on. Finding the path initially out of the valley was strange as it winds around peoples gardens on cobbled ground before breaking out again into farmland after Badger fields. Dropped down into Hebble hole before a welcome brew at Mays shop nr Colden. After climbing out onto the moors I started to enjoy the scenery, the rolling moors were heather clad and the walking easier. Continued past the reservoir's at Walshaw and dropped down into Ponden to stay the night at the camping spot at Ponden guest house, joining Gary and troop who had been joined by his mate Steve. I later learned of another camping spot nearby behind the Silent Inn PH
Thursday 4th August
Ponden to East Marton.
This was the first morning I altered my plans. I had planned to walk to Malham today a distance of 22 miles but realised I would have to alter the days.The next morning was wet. I had put some compeed on overnight after being given some zinc tape by Gary. It was the first blisters I had for years. I had switched to summer socks because of the heat and my feet mst have been moving too much so I also placed on the spare pair to restrict the movement. Climbing up onto Ickcornshaw moor the rain increased and the wind stronger making it an unpleasant crossing. Water was everywhere, even the slabs were ankle deep in places. Got down to Ickcornshaw and used a bus shelter for lunch stop before making the climb out of the valley before dropping down into Lothersdale and climbing again over that valley. I had noticed the rucksacks of Gary and party as I passed the Fox and Hound PH but continued on to go onto the top at Pinshaw. Dropping down towards Thornton the weather changed and the heat improved by about 10 C. The area around Brown house farm was disappointing, no path or waymarks and the approaches full of cow dung. Continued on to the canal and met Mick, father in law of Gary who was doing support who set off to find them. The camping spot at East Marton is very pleasant situated behind the Cross Keys cafe and only £5. Mind you I was first there and got the only real flat spot. Mick appeared about 1 hr later. He had walked the route to find them and had retrieved my cap which must have dropped when I was walking. Fed and watered we went up to the Cross keys PH where I had a few pints of the black stuff. Met another walker that night, Dave who came in at 22.00 looking for a camp spot so I showed him down to the spot we were at. Turns out he was on his 3rd tent so far
Friday 5th August
East Marton to Malham wild camp.
Set off in the morning with Gary's group and walked the pleasant lanes up to Gargrave taking a brew break in the Dalesman café. my 3 days food were running low and I saw a Co op in Gargrave but foolishly decided to wait for Malham to get my supplies as the book stated there was a shop all be it its hours were debatable. Passed through the fields almost hugging the river bank all the way up to Malham on a low level walk. The weather stayed dry and warm all morning. In Malham went to the shop to find it initially closed then when open very poor in terms of stock. There is a café but not much either in stock. I did note that the books stated there was a shop I Horton in ribblesdale. We continued on climbing up onto the top of Malham cove and then continuing onto the tarn and around the field study centre. I noted on route that the area around water sinks where the does literaly sink was ideal for wild camping. we moved on however another 2 miles and wild camped near great hill.
Saturday 6th August
Malham wild camp to Horton in Ribblesdale.
Gary had pre arranged with his father in law to meet at the roadside near Tennant gill and for him to take the packs around to Horton in ribblesdale so the group could do Pen Y Ghent without the weight. We met around 08.45hrs and were off up onto Fountains fell and onto Pen Y Ghent. Coming down off Pen Y Ghent I couldn't handle the pace and dropped off by about 1/4 mile. Got to Horton in Ribblesdale around 12.45hrs. I had made my mind up the day before that I was going to stay here and drop into the mileages set by the book whilst Gary and son were going off to wild camp up by Dodd fell. We arranged to meet at Tan hill on the Monday. First thing to note was that there is no longer a shop in Horton. There is a café so I stocked up with flapjacks. I knew I could breakfast in the café the next day and tea today and could buy food in Hawes tomorrow. Booking into the camp site I asked the camp site owner if he had a shop, which he doesn't but asked what I needed, shower gel was mentioned at which he delved into his collection of leftovers from the showers and handed me some at no cost. Washing and Tea done around 5pm had a few beers in the two pubs, I thought the Golden lion was better, mainly because of the big TV, I hadn't seen any TV since I started.
Sunday 7th August
Horton in Ribblesdale to Hardraw. 15 miles.
Packing up 8am on the Sunday got speaking to the neighbouring tent to discover it was the warden of Mounthooley hostel in the Cheviots who was doing the PW with her daughter. Got to the café at opening time expecting to go straight in only to find a queue 15 deep at the door, however despite the queue service was quick and I was on my way around 9am walking up the walled lanes out of the village and dropping down to the Ling bridge which would be a superb wild camping spot before the climb up onto the Cam high road. By now the weather had changed and was windy and cold with the threat of heavy rain. On the tops I met 69 yr old Roger who was walking in shorts and t shirt. His mate Paul would ride on ahead carry the gear on his bike and book the accommodation. I was to spend a fair of time with the 2 of them right up to Byrness. Got into Hawes which after the quiet solitude of the fells was manic. I did my re stock shopping and walked around to Hardraw to use the bunkhouse at the Green Dragon (£18 ) which In the evening storm was very welcome.
Monday 8th August
Hardraw to Tan Hill 15 miles.
The climb out of Hardraw was again on walled lanes then out onto the open slopes of Great shunner fell which so reminded me of the Cheviots. Continued over. By now I was starting to feel a bit fitter and the feet were no longer a problem. The path drops down into Thwaite and I went to the café for a welcome brew and bacon bap. The sun was out and the temp felt like high teens. Topped up on matches as I had forgotten to but some in Hawes and then went through the fields to go to Keld initially failing to find the rise in the path and ending up clambering over the wall to regain. I disliked the next section, the ferns were high and some gardening is needed on the overhanging branches. The path is quite rough in places. Dropping down into Keld the wind picked up and as I climbed up to Tan Hill I made a call to book a place in their bunkhouse as I didn't fancy a windy camp. When climbing out of Keld I looked back and saw that where the path drops down into Thwaite there is a low level valley going into Keld. Given how poor the stretch from Thwaite to Keld was, I don't why the route didn't go level. Marched on to Tan Hill getting there around 4pm. Met Gary and son in the bar who were walking on for a wild camp.The cost of the Tan Hill bunkhouse was £30 which includes breakfast which if you were camping could buy for £6.95. Spent a few of the evening hours with Roger and Paul.
Tuesday 9th August
Tan Hill to Middleton in Teesdale 16 miles.
I was off around 8am and set off over Sleightholme moor. The non existant path is marked by white poles, the trouble is all the bird feeding stations are also marked by white poles. I quickly lost the path and instead took a bearing for the Frumming beck dropping down onto an estate track at a point which would be excellent for wild camping. As it turned I was wasn't far off as I quickly regained the PW path and walked onto Gods bridge and under the A66 and back into my home county climbing over a cairned top known as Ravock castle and down to Deepdale beck where the estate has a shooting hut. The eastern end has an unlocked shelter/ refuge for walkers which somebody had dumped a tent and sleeping mat in. The area around would also be ideal for wild camping but not for today as Middleton in Teesdale was the destination. The rolling nature of the walk continued passing through several reservoirs before ascending Mickleton Moor and Harter fell which the trailblazer book describes as close to 1000 ft in ascent which I'm quite surprised at. Booked into Dale view campsite which, with a bar on site isn't bad for £5. Camped next to Gary and son. There is a coop in the village so I bought further provisions.
Wednesday 10th August
Middleton in Teesdale to Dufton 20 miles.
The morning was bright and sunny and I was wide awake at 5am with the sun shining into the tent. Up for 6, I was away for 7, promising to meet Gary over the next few days. The path up the dale was a delight, hugging the river at times. Saw a few deer in the early morning sunshine. Had to clamber over a wall at one stage as I passed through a field of cows, they started to follow me, thinking it was feed time, with the result that the cows in the next field came thundering towards the gate at breakneck speed. The miles passed quickly and I was passed Caldron Snout, up onto the moor in no time arriving at High Cup Nick at 13.30hrs. My plan had been to go up onto the tops and get to Gregs hut via Cross fell to save a day. I climbed up onto Backstone edge and walked about a mile in deep heather without finding a path. The radar station looked miles away and the weather was changing to rain and wind so I turned around and took the PW to Dufton. Initially I went to the YH which didn't open until 5pm so I went to the camp site meeting Gary and son on the way in. Getting the tent up the rain started heavy and was to remain so right until 6pm the next day. The camping area at Dufton has a small wooden hut which was ideal to sit and make food. After that I retreated to the pub meeting the same people that I had seen over the previous days
Thursday 11 th August
Dufton to Alston 19.5 miles.
Every trip has to have a day like this. It had rained heavily since 2 pm the previous day and everywhere was wet through. The forecast had been for a better afternoon so Gary and son were setting off late to go to the bothy. I intended going right through to Alston. It was a problem initially leaving the village with all streams overflowing and pathways covered. I looked for my camera but couldn't initially find it which was a shame as the Swindale beck resembled a Himalayan gorge as it was so swollen. The cloud was around 800 feet and I was quickly into it. Got onto Knock old man into an increasing wind from the west which was driving the rain horizontally. Continued over the slabs and once I hit the supply road to Great Dun fell I continued on it rather that use the PW which then continues around the back of the radar before the climb onto Little Dun Fell and Cross Fell. At the start of Cross Fell I took a bearing for the summit and rather that staying on the top headed straight down to the bothy for a bit of shelter. Found a large group inside and a fire on lit I learned later by a lad called Graham who I had met the night before, and Paul who had passed me several times. After the hut continued on the PW for what seemed a long time on a hard track all the way into Garrigill. For the first time since I started my feet were soaking.The way then follows the river for 4 muddy miles with overhanging trees all the way into Alston. I did bash my head several times, swearing loudly ,with luckily no one around. Saw the YH in Alston and thought I would chance my arm. Got the last bed for £18 and was ushered into the drying room before being allowed into the building. I've never used a YH before, I think I might join now. Met Graham inside and met him and Paul on the night time in the Cumberland arms. Pauline the warden of the hostel and her daughter came in followed by other persons I had met, Nick and son.
Friday 12th August
Alston to Greenhead 16.5 miles.
After the mud of the previous day I opted for the flatness of the south Tyne railway which mirrors the PW all the way up to Burnstones. As I walked up the level track a cyclist told me of workings and a path blockage at Lintley station. At that point I came off the railway and walked the PW to Slaggyford where I re joined the railway up Knarsdale and re joined the PW though I could have walked the railway to Burnstones. I later learned of persons walking all the way to Haltwhistle on the railway and then either walking to Winshields farm on the Roman wall or busing to Greenheads. The path continues on good tracks over Lambley common before descending to the A689 which you cross. The next section all the way to Black hill has a boggy reputation and it certainly was. You walk over long sections of boggy reed beds and when you find some slabs you think great but they lead into another bog. Its a case of just getting on with it. I lost the track at one point in an area near to Batey Shield farm where you climb out of a river valley with no markings or track and I ended up clambering over walls to get back on track. When I got to Gap shields farm I turned left on a footpath instead of right on the PW as a couple with a dog had walked through the PW field with cows and hadn't been happy. The slight detour meant an extra 1/2 mile on the A69 into Grrenhead where I booked into the hostel at £15. Had a few beers that night in the hotel with Graham from the YH and Roger and Paul.
Saturday 13th August
Greenhead to Bellingham 21.5 miles
Early start 7am for a big day. I was the only one walking the whole distance to Bellingham. Made good timing on the Roman wall after doing the initial sections dropped down to the path on the drainage ditch known as the vallum which took me to Winshields farm where I got to at 11.30am.A stiff climb onto the wall where I met Nick and son then 3 1/2 miles to Rapishaw gap to cut across the moors to Wark forest. Coming out of the forest was yet another horrible boggy section which went back into the forest before the minor road nr Ladyhill. From there it was across fields to Leadgate where I bumped into Roger who told me that Paul had trouble getting booked in Bellingham so I thought I better start ringing ahead to get booked in. I got a signal nr the mast and got into the CC campsite on the approach to the town. On tiring legs walked into the town with Roger and got pitched up at 6pm. The CC site has excellent facilities with a newly built recreation building featuring kitchen, log burner and drying room. Walked into Bellingham for some food and shopping and for the first time since I started found myself on my own as I couldn't see anybody in the bars.
Sunday 14th August
Bellingham to Byrness 15 miles.
8am start on what was an easier day. Initially I walked up the wrong road out of the town as I had mentally switched off. Got back on track and took the path up to Blakelaw farm and headed over the moor which had a lovely bloom of purple heather. The walking was easy, fairly low lying and no steep gradients. I felt at ease on the moors as the Cheviots were in sight.Got onto the road to go over Whitley pike where I met Paul on his bike who told me of a new bunkhouse in Byrness at Forest view. I got onto Whitley pike and was amazed to have a signal so I booked myself in for the night. Over the minor road and around Padon hill and dropped down to what is described as a boggy section. The description was not wrong. A horrible forestry section which was continuous bog for about 2 miles. At one stage I got the map out as I thought I must have missed the track, eventually though coming out onto the forest track which leads all the way to the valley and then up to the village where I got booked in. I was there for 15.30, they don't open until 4pm but you can go into the conservatory area where tea/ coffee is left for a donation. The bunkhouse which is converted bungalow in the village was £18. Met up again with people from the last days.
Monday 15th August
Byrness to Kirk Yetholm 25 miles.
The big day. Initially I had arranged with my wife who was picking me up that I would camp out tonight nr the Hen Hole and then finish off on Tuesday morning as it would be easier for her, as she cares for her father, to travel day time. An early start again 8am and I was climbing the steep muddy tracks out of the village. I hadn't been on the stretch from the village before but the ground from Chew Green to Kirk Yetholm was familiar to me. The day was perfect, warm and great visibility. I made good time and was on Windy Gyle by 13.30hrs. I knew I could get to the Auchope refuge hut before 17.00 which was too early to camp. Once at Auchope cairn I checked the phone signal and rang the hostel to find an answerphone message asking to book on line. I knew I could be in Kirk Yetholm before 20.00 so I started ringing home to get the lift organised for tonight. That sorted I walked on from Auchope over The Schil and then took the lower path into Kirk Yetholm getting over the final road climb around 19.30. Thinking I was making good time I was returned to reality by my phone at 19.40, a call from my wife demanding to know where I was. I replied I was only 5 minutes away, which was followed by "where can I park then". I hadn't realised she was stressed from the unfamiliar drive into the Cheviots. Got to the village green and binned my socks and gaiters which were beyond help and then went into the Border hotel to get my 1/2 pint and certificate. Such was the rush to get sorted at the finish I forgot to take an end photograph and then had to drive 1 1/2 hrs home.
A decent trip, 268 miles over 15 days. I'm sure I have read somewhere that it is over 40,000ft of ascent. I have done the CWT and I would consider the PW harder as the average day contains at least 3 valley climbs. If I were to repeat this I would do a lot more research on shops as I struggled a bit with that and for the first time in my life of walking I was struggling for water supply, sometimes carrying 2 litres on top of my normal pack weight. A baggage carrying service has its attractions particularly as I write this my feet are just recovering from the battering I gave them with the heavy pack over hard rocky surfaces. A repeat..... possibly north to south some day.
On the plus side its superb for body fitness, I weighed myself before and after and lost 12 lbs in weight. Easier than dieting!