Offa's Dyke and Glyndwr's Way Combo

[Gordie12]

I was originally looking to walk Offa’s Dyke but at 177 miles it was a bit shorter than my last couple of June walks so a bit of research and I found Glyndwr’s Way which starts at Knighton and ends at Welshpool. With both towns being on the Offa’s Dyke path it looked like I could combine the two and bring the distance up to 312 miles.

I allowed myself 9 days for Offa’s Dyke and 6 days for Glyndwr’s Way which worked out at an average of just under 21 miles per day. This looked do-able although there would be some fairly lumpy days but hell, it beats working.

The trains ran on time and I travelled down to my brother in laws in Neath to spend the night before I was due to start. In the car from the station up to their house we agreed we would stay off the booze and have an early night as I needed to be fresh and ready for the following morning. So, at 3am and having shared 5 bottles of wine I headed off in the general direction of my bed and 3 hrs later I was sitting at the breakfast table staring at a full cooked breakfast which I felt morally obliged to eat and enjoy.

After being driven across to Chepstow it was time for the adventure to begin.

Day 1
Chepstow – Monmouth
21.4 miles
3181 ft of ascent
Moving Av 2.9mph
Overall Av 2.4mph
Moving Time 07:21
Stopped Time 01:30

It’s an odd start, walking towards the estuary then doubling back along the same track having reached the starting point. In my fragile state I followed 4 people ahead of me to the waters edge and realised I was in the wrong place – great start. Retraced my steps and climbed a small hill to the correct starting point and I was off and walking.

The initial few miles were a bit drab (or maybe that was just my state of mind) as I walked through various housing estates and sometimes quite enclosed paths with high walls blocking out any chance of a view.
Eventually I reached a really good view point with views down to the River Wye below and shortly after this I joined a main road and completely missed a left turn, walking an extra half mile before realising my error (when I bumped in to two ladies I had passed 40 mins earlier and were doing a completely different walk). Re-traced my steps and turning found all was well with the world again. That is until I reached the point where I had to leave a road side path and climb a stone style over a wall in to a field. All was going well until my boot connected with the bottom step which was wet and I took off landing on my back. The rucksack took the hit and I just gave myself a few seconds to make sure everything was where it should be before getting up and carrying on. I crossed a few fields and came back out a mile further up the same road and after walking no more than 50 yards up the road a Police car stopped beside me and the passenger window came down. The Police officer in the passenger seat asked if I had seen any dead bodies by the side of the road and I laughed and said I had only been on the road for 5o yards but hadn’t noticed any so far. We shared a few laughs and they headed off round the corner when I suddenly realised that I had been by the roadside (albeit on the other side of a wall) when I fell and probably somebody had driven by when I was still lying on the ground checking my bits. Anyway, they didn’t seem to take the issue very seriously so I carried on walking up the road.

Having left the road behind I was in an enclosed wood wandering along minding my own business when I heard voices behind me so I turned round and slipped on a wet tree root, I pushed my right hand out to grab the fence to stop my fall but unfortunately it was barbed wire and I cut my hand open in four places. There was blood everywhere and maybe I didn’t die in the first incident but the second would get me. I looked round to see where the voices had come from and discovered there was a camp site about 400 yards away and the voices had come from there – oh how I am loving this walk!!

When the blood dried I used some wet grass to clean my hand and the cuts were nothing serious – I would live.
Having passed high above Tintern Abbey I reached a point on the track where I could either take the high route or the low route and follow the Wye for a few miles. I seemed to struggle with my decision making and stood by the splitting of the ways for ages before plumping for the river path which turned out to be really enjoyable.

Leaving the river behind there was some gentle climbing through woods before reaching The Kymin where I stopped for a look around the temple. There were no cars in the car park and no people around but an old collie with one brown eye and one blue eye appeared out of the woods and sat on my feet so I couldn’t go anywhere or do anything other than stroke his head. I was now his best pal and he decided he would come with me to Prestatyn which would have been nice but I assume the owner wouldn’t have been best pleased so I had to rush to a gate (there are a lot on this walk) and get through and close it before my pal could join me. He wasn’t best pleased and started walking alongside a fence looking for a gap as I sped off down the track and my final walk in to Chepstow.

I had no idea where the B&B was so I ended up phoning Andrea and asking her to find it online for me. Twenty minutes later I had my directions and walked 40 yards to the front door…………

River Wye

Day 2
Monmouth – Llanthony
26.2 miles
4684 ft of ascent
Moving Av 3 mph
Overall Av 2.2mph
Moving Time 07:35
Stopped Time 02:28

The B&B was nice and comfortable and I had a good night’s sleep. After breakfast I was at the front door getting ready to leave when the owner came out and decided now would be a good time to tell me everything that was wrong with the Scots seeking independence. I basically stood staring at her for about 10 minutes before she finally came up for air and I could politely move on mentioning I had voted YES as I turned my back on her.

A few miles in to today’s walk I finally felt like I was properly out in to the country and as I had had an alcohol free evening I could appreciate the scenery. Today was a mixture of walking round the edge of fields and through woods as well as walking through a Bulmers apple orchard which was a 1st for me.

By the time I reached Pandy I was running low on food and water and had assumed I could stock up but I couldn’t see a shop so carried on. When planning the walk I had thought about finishing day 2 in Pandy but eventually plumped for carrying on to Llanthony. After crossing the railway line the first real steep ascent began, taking me to the top of my 1st hills and with the early evening sunlight it was really pleasant even with the really strong wind that was buffeting me around once I was on top of the ridge. The descent down to Llanthony was long and gradual and I was glad to arrive at the pub where I was staying the night.

Day 3
Llanthony - Gladestry
22.3 miles
4237 ft of ascent
Moving Av 2.7 mph
Overall Av 2.5mph
Moving Time 07:49
Stopped Time 00:41

I was 20 minutes away from the pub when I realised I had taken the room key with me. Definitely not going back, I’ll post it to them. The climb back up on to the ridge was very steep and I was glad to get to the top and have 5 minutes for “photo opportunities”.

Setting off along the path I had my first encounter with the wild horses that roam these parts – beautiful animals and numerous photos were taken, they didn’t seem bothered by me and let me get pretty close to them.

This was a great ridge walk, pretty flat once the height had been gained and great views in all directions, I was sad to leave it behind and drop down in to Hay on Wye where I discovered I had the same food and drink cravings that I have had on the last couple of long distance walks (Jaffa Cakes and Coke). It’s early afternoon and really warm (I apologise now, this was the warmest June in Wales since 1976 and I may well mention the heat later on), shade is good and after Hay On Wye I was able to follow the tree lined river bank but this didn’t last and once out on open fields there was no breeze to be had anywhere. Climbing up through woods a group of four stopped me for a chat. What did I think of the game they asked (Scotland v England on Day 1, recorded and so far had avoided papers, news etc so didn’t know the score)? I stopped them in their tracks and explained I was avoiding the score. After 10 minutes discussing anything but football I left them behind then after a few yards one of the women shouted to me that I would enjoy the game. For the next few miles I pondered this, had we won, had we drawn or was she winding me up and we got thumped???????????

As I pondered, I walked through numerous sheep fields, I swear I have never seen as much sheep muck in all my life.

A good day, a warm day and a lot of climbing.

Looking down on Llanthony

Day 4
Gladestry - Knighton
19.2 miles
3376 ft of ascent
Moving Av 2.7 mph
Overall Av 2.4mph
Moving Time 07:09
Stopped Time 00:40

Another steep climb to start the day and I was on top of Hergest Ridge which I followed to Kington where I dropped down in to the village where I was able to get my fix of coke and jaffa cakes before climbing back out of Kington and up and over the golf course on to some wide grassy hills with a good path to walk on.

After a few miles I dropped down on to a B road with big hedges on either side. If there had been any traffic it probably wouldn’t have been much fun but it was dead so straight forward.

More steep climbs up fairly low hills and some field walking and I arrived in Knighton. Another lumpy day and the temperature continues to rise making the climbs harder work than they would normally be.

Day 5
Knighton – Abbey Cwm Hir
32.4 miles
4801 ft of ascent
Moving Av 2.7 mph
Overall Av 2.4mph
Moving Time 11:50
Stopped Time 01:10

I knew today would be a tough day, a lot of climbing and yes – the heat, so I arranged to skip breakfast and settle up at the pub before hitting my bed, this allowed me to start walking at 6:15am.
A quick stop to pick up a sandwich, jaffa cakes and coke in the shop across the road and I head up through The Narrows.

Today I leave Offa behind and start Glyndwr’s Way and it’s not the best start. A narrow overgrown path through Knighton and with the early morning dew I am soaked through before I am out the town.

A gentle walk through woods on a good track spoils me before the ups and downs of the day kick in and with temperatures now approaching 30 degrees I am baking and tiring in equal measure. By the time I reach Llangunllo I am puggled so I stop and throw off my rucksack before sitting down to gorge on the jaffas before they melt (which in my current state would leave me distraught). I left the village on a tarmac road which leads to the railway station and a combination of exhaustion and the heat had me contemplating jumping on the 1st train that arrived and heading…..anywhere! Luckily the path left the road before reaching the station so I wasn’t faced with a tricky decision but the climbs were getting steeper. There was one really steep descent which I find just as tiring followed by a lung busting climb through a field where I met a farmer on his tractor. Really nice old boy and I found myself trying to decide if he was older than his tractor or if it was the other way round.

On reaching Felindre I knew I had enough water to see me through to the end of the day but it was warm and pretty horrible. I spotted a woman taking her shopping from her car in to the house so asked if I could get a drink of water. She came back out with two full pint mugs of cold water which didn’t touch the sides and she replaced them with another two pints and a small bottle of water for me to take away with me.

Saw my first wind farm of the trip today which I basically circled before dropping down in to Llanbadarn Fynydd and the final 8 miles to Abbey Cwm Hir.

Another tough day, extra mileage on this section but the feet are in surprisingly good condition bearing in mind the heat.

The Narrows, Knighton

Day 6
Abbey Cwm Hir - Llanidloes
18 miles
3537 ft of ascent
Moving Av 2.8 mph
Overall Av 2.4mph
Moving Time 06:29
Stopped Time 01:07

A short day today due to the efforts of yesterday and a gentler start with a climb but not on a severe gradient.
After a few miles I met a dog walker, the first person I had met (other than the farmer) since Knighton. Had a good chat with her before walking another couple of miles and meeting a lady who had just arrived home from walking her two dogs so had another chat – I must have been tired as I seemed happy to pass the time of day whereas normally it would be a brief friendly chat and I’d be off.

I had about 4 miles of fairly flat track walking before I hit the descents and climbs only interrupted by a farmer on his quad bike who stopped to give me a 20 minute speech about the impact of Brexit on Welsh hill farmers. Passed through Newchapel and arrived in Llanidloes to discover that the B&B was two miles out of town. Searched out a shop and sat down by the river for my coke and jaffa cakes before heading off up a road for the final 2 miles of the day.

Day 7
Llanidloes - Machynlleth
18.3 miles
2058 ft of ascent
Moving Av 3.3 mph
Overall Av 3.0mph
Moving Time 05:28
Stopped Time 00:25

Confession time.

Today I bottled it, this should have been 27 miles and nearly 6,000 ft of climbing but with the heatwave continuing I decided that this could be a stage too far (I still have some big days to come) so I shortened the route and gambled that my feet would survive 18 miles of tarmac.

I followed the B4518 which was fairly quiet making the walking easy. The views of Llyn Clywedog were terrific and I stopped for a few photos before heading onwards. A few minutes later a lady stopped her car and asked if I would pick up a dead deer that was on the road half a mile away. Strange request, but fine, yes I’ll do it – never saw the deer so assume either it wasn’t dead or it was in somebody’s boot.

At the high point of today’s climb I stopped for some grub and took the boots off to cool my feet down. Seemed like a long gradual descent down to Machynlleth and I didn’t envy the cyclists heading the other way up the climb.

Clywedog Reservoir

Day 8
Machynlleth- Llanbymar
17 miles
3406 ft of ascent
Moving Av 2.6 mph
Overall Av 2.4 mph
Moving Time 06:34
Stopped Time 00:37

Watched the news and weather last night hoping and praying there would be a change in the weather (I’m actually hoping for rain now) but alas no, the heatwave is due to continue for several more days.

Today, was day 1 of cleg hell. Warm, calm and plenty of woods and stagnant water and boy did those little ******** feed on me.

The days are starting to feel very similar. If I was here for a single day and got great views, clear blue skies and warm weather I would think it was walking heaven but it’s starting to feel like Groundhog Day. The scenery is beautiful, but very similar, green hills, steep climbs, steep descents and villages with no shops so on top of everything else I have jaffa withdrawl symptoms.

Looking back on my notes, I summarised today as “short distance, tough day and too hot for walking” – seems fair.

Day 9
Llanbymar - Dolanog
24 miles
3852ft of ascent
Moving Av 2.6 mph
Overall Av 2.4 mph
Moving Time 09:12
Stopped Time 01:25

The morning was a bit of a blur and I struggle to remember much about the walk as far as Lake Vrynwy. What does stick in my memory was the shock of going from miles of paths without seeing a sole to arriving at Lake Vrynwy where there seemed to be tourists everywhere (it’s a beautiful spot). Where there are tourists, there are cafes so I stopped at the first one I came to and had a coke and a piece of gooseberry and coconut cake (very millennium man). After a good rest I left the café and 100 yards up the road found another one so stopped for another coke and a sandwich (I think I must be suffering from sun stroke or something at this stage, this is not normal behaviour). After walking another mile I came to a shop at the edge of the village so it was time for more coke and a chocolate magnum which had to be eaten quickly before it was all over my hands and trousers.

Quite a lot of woods to walk through after the lake and some really steep steps had me puggled, I was also constantly trying to fight the clegs before they had more of my blood. At Pont Llogel I found another shop and was able to have a seat and enjoy my coke and the luxury of a double caramel magnum. On long distance walks apart from the staple diet of Jaffa C I also seem to hit the magnums but none of the shops have the raspberry variety I found in Yorkshire last year – they are the Real Madrid of the magnum world, truly epic.

Lake Vrynwy Dam

Day 10
Dolanog - Welshpool
16.5 miles
1839 ft of ascent
Moving Av 3.1 mph
Overall Av 2.6 mph
Moving Time 05:14
Stopped Time 01:00

Cereal and a slice of toast for breakfast, I’m ill, I must be. The temperature is due to peak over the next 24/48hrs so hopefully full cooked can be back on the menu soon.

Today I do a mix of the standard route and some tarmac bashing to cut down on the climbing.
In Meifod I bought the JC’s and coke then sat on a bench outside the shop where I was joined by the owner (no customers inside). We chatted in the warm sunshine for 10 minutes and he talked about all the hills he had climbed over the years (he said he was 87). I had to tear myself away or I could have been stuck all day but not before we shook hands and he wished me well on my walk.

It’s noticeably flatter today as I approach Welshpool and as a result I’m feeling better than I have for a few days.
Whilst hitting the tarmac I found a petrol station and stepping inside……………..it’s air conditioned. I stood around for about ten minutes in temperature heaven till I felt I was starting to get some funny looks from the staff so bought the usual supplies and headed outside for a feast.

Further along the road there were 3 guys about to start shearing sheep so I shouted on them and asked how far to Welshpool? The three responses were 12 miles, 7 miles and 3.5 miles – I thanked them and headed down the road.
I’m in Welshpool, Glyndwr’s Way is completed and tomorrow I’m back on Offa’s Dyke.

Day 11
Welshpool - Forden
13 miles
1520 ft of ascent
Moving Av 2.6 mph
Overall Av 2.1 mph
Moving Time 05:03
Stopped Time 01:07

I was due to get the train to Shrewsbury this morning then a connecting train to Knighton so I could continue where I left Offa’s Dyke 6 days earlier. This would have meant an 11am start and 21 miles of hard climbing in hot weather. The more I thought about it the more I disliked the idea so I decided to have the nearest thing I could to a rest day. I should have been walking from Knighton to Forden but Welshpool to Forden seemed much more appealing so the decision was taken. I started the day by walking the short distance from Welshpool to Powis Castle and having a gentle wander round the grounds before I set off for Forden.

Walking through Welshpool on the Montgomery canal towpath was really enjoyable and this was followed by a few fields before the path climbed through more fields then woods to reach the high point of Beacon Ring. I then descended through woods and a minor road to reach Kingswood and then Forden.

A steep climb on the way to Beacon Ring but with a reduced mileage I felt fine heading in to my last 4 days.

Day 12
Forden – Trefonen
24.8 miles
2001 ft of ascent
Moving Av 3.0 mph
Overall Av 2.6 mph
Moving Time 08:21
Stopped Time 01:08

Having already walked the Offa’s Dyke route between Welshpool and Forden the day before I chose to take the more direct road route this morning so made good time on the quiet road.

After Welshpool I was back on the canal towpath for a few miles before heading in to miles of flat fields following a flat section of the dyke. Ordinarily, very easy walking but on the valley floor the heat was oppressive and there was no breeze to be had.

Having visited another beautifully air conditioned garage for the usual supplies I was back on a canal towpath between Four Crosses and Llanymynech.

Around Porth-Y-Warn I felt a rain drop on my face. I can't remember ever being happy about the prospect of rain but there is a smile on my face and a spring in my step as I anticipate a drenching and hopefully a temperature reduction thereafter. In reality it turned out to be 20 minutes of very gentle drizzle then the sun came out and blasted me again...............

In Nant-Mawr an old boy was in his front garden and offered to top up my water, it was still humid so I didn’t say no.

Day 13
Trefonen – Nr Irish Bridge
13.5 miles
2197 ft of ascent
Moving Av 2.7 mph
Overall Av 2.4 mph
Moving Time 04:38
Stopped Time 00:25

Another short day today with a couple of steep climbs thrown in. It’s still very warm but today is the 1st day where the temperature has dropped at least a bit.

Quite a few fields to walk through today and one 20 minute section with overgrown brambles, nettles and ferns.

On climbing yet another gate I managed to rip the bum of my trousers so that’s two pairs damaged on this walk as I ripped my trousers on my day 1 fall – more business for Tiso when I get home.

As I approached Castle Mill I was walking through a field of cows and they all moved out my way to reveal a monster bull standing in front of my gate and blocking my way. He stood his ground and clearly wasn’t going to budge so I had to head down the field about 100 yards to find another gate giving me access to the next field. Some more tarmac and I arrived at my B&B for the night feeling good after an easy day.

Day 14
Nr Irish Bridge - Llangynhafal
25.4 miles
3828 ft of ascent
Moving Av 3.1 mph
Overall Av 2.9 mph
Moving Time 08:11
Stopped Time 00:42

I made a complete mess of today’s start. The B&B owner gave me directions to pick up the canal towpath but I finished up walking exactly 2 miles to find myself on the correct towpath but looking at the B&B which was 50 yards away. Typical of me to make this type of mistake on what was already due to be a fairly long day.

The walk along the towpath was interesting with a lot of boats about. The walk over the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct was an experience with a strong wind blowing and a bit of concentration was required in such an exposed spot.

The next few miles were the highlight of the entire 15 days for me. The views down to Llangollen were superb and Dinas Bran castle looks interesting. After leaving a narrow country road, the path to World’s End is superb. It’s very narrow with a lot of scree and boulders on either side and the cliffs to the right of the path look terrific.

It’s a shame when this section of the path comes to an end and I dropped down to the tarmac road at World’s End. I put one boot in to the ford and I was on my back and soaked. A motorcyclist was stopped beside the ford and he came to help me and nearly finished on his back as well.

Some more tarmac, some forest walking and then a few climbs up and over small hills and a long day was over as I reached Llangynhafal.

Today was one of my toughest days but also my most enjoyable.

Near World's End

Day 15
Llangynhafal - Prestatyn
21.2 miles
3974 ft of ascent
Moving Av 2.7 mph
Overall Av 2.6 mph
Moving Time 07:43
Stopped Time 00:26

The last day of the walk, I don’t want it to be over but I want to get up the road and get home – doesn’t make much sense.

A bit overcast and hazy, warm but not roasting so quite a good day to finish on.

Half an hour in I discover another key in my pocket so that's another one I need to post back when I get home.

Within an hour of starting I can see the sea and this is a real boost to the morale (even if it is on the distant horizon).

This is a lumpy old day and there isn’t much in the way of flat ground till near the end. Every time you think you must have climbed the last hill another one appears and puts up a brave fight.

Seeing the A55 then crossing over it is a milestone and you know you are on the final leg. I was geographically challenged at the start on day 1 and I suffer the same fate at the end, losing the path and taking to the road coming out on the coast 3 miles too far west. No real issue, just a case of following the coastal road into Prestatyn then walking through the town centre, up and over the railway line then the final walk along the path to the beach front with the Offa’s Dyke symbol on the path to guide you home.

It's a fitting finish, the sun is out and it's warm........

This was a surprise............for all of us!

Summary

Due to the conditions this was a tough 15 days. I have never been as tired when completing a long distance walk as I was at the end of this one. Strangely, my feet have never been in such good condition. Not one single blister pad required and not a single pain killer taken which is unheard of.

I’ve read some negative comments about Offa’s Dyke mainly concerning the number of gates and styles and it’s true there are a lot but for me, they didn’t detract from the walk. I found Glyndwr’s Way tougher with more steep climbs and descents but the compensation was that the scenery was better.

Despite all the crap I consumed I still managed to lose 9lbs in 15 days but most of that was put back on during the drive home.

The schedule would have been fine under normal June conditions, the heat made things much tougher than would normally have been the case.

Having lived in Wales for 3 years many moons ago (in the days when walking without a golf bag over my shoulder was a pointless waste of energy) it was nice to be able to take my time wandering through the countryside and seeing the real Wales up close.

Would I go back? Maybe in the winter when I know things will be cooler!!! If I never walked on Offa's Dyke again I probably could live with myself but it might be good to go back and do the Glyndwr Way again as I preferred the scenery. It's the quietest long distance walk I've ever done, in 135 miles I met 2 farmers and 1 dog walker!

I set myself a tough schedule to complete this route in 15 days, what I hadn't anticipated was the heat which for a few days was way too hot for walking and meant that it was more strength sapping than would normally be the case.

Difficulties aside, great experience and surprisingly the feet are still in good nick which is unusual for me after a long distance walk.

Route.

Chepstow - Knighton (Offa).
Knighton - Welshpool (Glyndwr)
Welshpool - Prestatyn (Offa)