The Crazy Thing - 1 man, 1 woman and 1 dog on the CWT

[Jeff P]

Morris the Jack Fox, Sam and I walked the CWT from 13 September to 1 October 2017. None of us had any hiking or wild camping experience but we are all fit (running mainly) and I can navigate. We loved it, learning as we went and Sam's blog, The Crazy Thing, beautifully captures our experience.

This report is the boring bits, which may be of help to those planning to walk it:

1. We chose to start on the alternative route via the Great Glen. If you are not an experienced back-packer it is definitely a great way to ease yourself in. Day 1 is flat and smooth but we still collapsed after 12 miles and fell asleep at 4pm.
2. You quickly improve as the terrain continuously tests you - some climb on day 2, bog and higher ground on day 3, wilderness on day 4 etc.
3. We chose to miss out Beinn Eighe (bad weather and looked a bit steep). We didn't regret it. In fact we never regretted any route decision - you are too busy enjoying the route you are on.
4. Cluanie Inn is great (dog friendly). We camped at the end of the loch and ate there.
5. Glen Affric Youth Hostel is excellent (dog friendly if you can get the 1 bunk room). A rare opportunity to stay in the UK's remotest hostel.
6. Kinlochewe is lovely and friendly. We stayed two nights. Visit the Whistle Stop Cafe and the Hotel bar (both DF).
7. Bothies can be hit or miss. We preferred to camp. We did stay in Glencoul bothy where we were lucky enough to meet and stay there with the Bothy Maintenance Officer.
8. Ullapool is a good place for a break. We camped in the site on the shore and had two good meals at the Ceilidh Place (dog friendly!)
9. Inchnadamph Hostel is excellent and welcoming (DF!). We stayed two nights. Thoroughly recommended.
10. Kinlochbervie is not lovely. On a Saturday night, the only place serving food was the hotel and then only to residents (there were none and we weren't staying there).
11. We would have loved to have camped at Sandwood Bay, but a storm was coming so we pushed on. Sam became ill on arrival at the Cape - we think from drinking stream water around Sandwood Bay - take care and load up at Kinlochbervie as the ground is flat, so the water more likely to be contaminated.
12. John at the Ozone Cafe at the Cape is a diamond. Fantastic end to the adventure here if you stay overnight.
13. We stayed at the Wild Orchid in Durness (DF) after we finished (for 3 nights!). Highly recommended as is the food at the Whale Tale Cafe and Smoo Cave Hotel (both DF).
14. From falling asleep after 12 flat miles on day 1, we walked 20 mile days from Ullapool. It is incredible how quickly you improve. We would have carried on and walked down the Great Glen from Inverness, but the weather was against us. Morris has never been happier, fitter or more relaxed. He never got tired and walked every step.

Enjoy!