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Norfolk: The Paston Way - Cromer to North Walsham

Norfolk: The Paston Way - Cromer to North Walsham


Postby jonathan - norfolk » Thu Mar 15, 2018 8:11 pm

Date walked: 15/09/2018

Time taken: 6 days

Distance: 50 km

Ascent: 450m

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Introduction
Paston Way is a 22 mile walk between Cromer and North Walsham, taking in many of the area’s beautiful medieval churches. Norfolk has one of the greatest concentrations of medieval churches in Europe, some of which are very special indeed. To visit all 14 of the churches on the Paston Way, would involve some rather convoluted walking totalling about 29.5 miles. It doesn't help that the route has been revised in several places and that waymarking on the ground may well not correspond to the route indicated on the map. Furthermore, some of the local youngsters think it funny to "re-align" signposts, particularly where these have been fixed to round metal posts!

Further information regarding the Paston Way may be gained from the following Norfolk County Council websites:
https://www.norfolk.gov.uk/out-and-about-in-norfolk/norfolk-trails/long-distance-trails/paston-way/about-paston-way-and-points-of-interest
https://www.norfolk.gov.uk/out-and-about-in-norfolk/norfolk-trails/long-distance-trails/paston-way

Walking "out and back" off the main route may go against the grain for those who favour either linear or circular routes but this is the only way that you will visit the many very special medieval churches situated within some very pretty and largely unspoilt villages along the way. It is, in my opinion, a route to take one's time over, and not to be hurried. It lends itself to quiet reflection and study of the churches visited, rather than striding out from one end of the walk to the other.
By doing so, I have met many local people and enjoyed insights into the churches and their communities that I otherwise would not have been privy to. It helped that I completed the route over a period of time, including a number of "out and back" and circular walks (some after NorLSAR call-outs). In addition, some of the churches were visited whilst I awaited the arrival of youngsters using the churches as checkpoints whilst completing their Duke of Edinburgh's Award Expeditions in my role as a DoE Expedition Assessor and other sections walked whilst supervising groups.

Rather than give histories of each church myself, I have included one or two photographs, together with what I consider to be the best of the web links that I have found that give more detailed information in relation to some of the churches.

I've recorded the time taken as six days as I did it as a number of circular routes (often covering the same ground two or three times) and "out and back" walks over a number of visits undertaken between June 2015 and September 2018 between other trips. In truth I could have covered the whole of the main route in a day, and actually walked from North Walsham to Cromer in an afternoon recently as part of a much longer walk from Stalham. Taking two or three days over it and arranging one or two overnight stops would be a great way to complete the walk.

Section 1: Cromer - Overstrand
The first section from Cromer until just before Overstrand (c. 3.5 kms) runs very closely to a section of the Norfolk Coast Path that also runs between the two. Either could be taken, however, having walked both stretches I much prefer the cliff top route that is taken by the Paston Way. It is especially fine when walking north, taking in the edge of Cromer Golf Course, and passing close by Cromer Lighthouse, before dropping down Happy Valley with fine views of the church, town and pier stretching out below (done 08.03.2018).
However, both routes are very well way-marked. Take time to turn around and look back, especially if heading south as the views towards Cromer can be excellent, particularly in the morning sunshine. A walk out along the coast path/beach from Cromer returning along the Paston Way along the cliff top from Overstrand would make an excellent morning's walk of between 6 and 7 miles.
Coast Path 02 Cromer Pier.jpg
Cromer Pier in late autumn sunshine.

From Overstrand, going south, the route then moves inland.

Section 2. Overstrand to Southrepps
This section was completed as a very enjoyable circular walk taking in Overstrand, Northrepps and Sidestrand, linked to the next section by an "out and back" link to Southrepps. The churches all make for good start and finish points as they have good free parking, but there is also a good "pay and display" parking at Overstrand if you wish to park by the sea. A short section here coincides with the England Coast Path. Although Northrepps Church was closed, both Overtstrand and Sidestrand (both medieval) Churches were open and well worth a visit. I also repeated the main linear route going north as part of an extended day walk from Stalham to Cromer and found the section no less enjoyable in this direction.


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Total distance covered is about 8.25 miles/13 kms +/- 145 m Without the "out and back" the circular route (visiting Overstrand and Sidestrand churches) is about 6 miles /10 kms +/- 100 m. I completed this walk on 29.01.2018, and repeated the main linear route on 09.03.2018.

Section 3. Trimingham
3.75 Kms (2.3 miles) +/- 44 m
The 14th centuary parish church of St John the Baptist's Head, Trimingham.
Coast path 09 Trimingham Church.jpg
Trimingham Church

Coast path 10 Trimingham Church (inside).jpg
The 15th century rood screen inside Trimingham Church.


Further information:
http://www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/trimingham/trimingham.htm
http://www.heritage.norfolk.gov.uk/record-details?MNF6805-St-John-the-Baptist%27s-Church-Trimingham&Index=6272&RecordCount=57339&SessionID=d8f0fe05-603d-4fbd-ac29-5fb56c8285c3

An exploration along the disused railway line was rather disappointing and is not recommended for anything other than a short, pleasant, easy evening stroll.

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A better walk is a circular walk that starts and finishes at Trimingham Church. (2.6 miles/4.1 kms +35). See map below:

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Section 4. Trunch and Gimmingham
9.3 Kms., (5.8 miles) +/- 84 m
The area around the church in Trunch is well worth allowing time for. The Crown Inn has much to commend it, as does the small, friendly Corner Store, depending upon the kind of refreshment that you may be looking for.
The medieval church of St Botolph's Church, Trunch itself is very much worthy of a visit. The early 16th Century font canopy, in the 15th Century church is both unusual and of considerable historical interest, being one of only four that survive in England. The rood screen in front of the altar, although damaged, probably dates from the same period. Further detailed information on the church may be obtained from: http://www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/trunch/trunch.htm
On the far side of the church yard is a small green, with a bench and convenient parking making it an ideal check point and/or lunch spot for DoE and other similar small groups of young walkers undertaking expeditions that include this section of the Paston Way.
This section of the walk completed on 19th June 2015 in ideal walking conditions.

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Section 4 A. Bradfield, Antingham, Southrepps and Trimingham.
11.6 Kms (7.2 miles) +96m / -44m
Unusually I had the opportunity to be dropped off at one end of my walk, leaving my car at the other, so no need for a circular walk. This walk was originally part of the official Paston Way, (and was still so at the time that I walked it). It may well be again in the future and I've included it here as it formed part of my completion of the Paston Way.
I started off at Bradfield village and then quickly picked up Paston Way and followed it westwards towards Antingham on minor roads. Just north of the village the route leaves minor roads for good footpaths before alternating between quiet roads and footpaths all the way to Southrepps. Refreshments available at the friendly (and dog friendly) local pub which has a good selection of real ales and a large beer garden at the rear.

St James Church, Southrepps is another of Norfolk's medieval churches and, it too, still has its rood screen. I also noted that the altar tapestry was adorned with the large embroidered scallop shell of St James, a familiar icon for those who have completed one or more of the Caminos de Santiago (Ways of St James).
From the church at Southrepps the route continues along minor roads eastwards and then north-eastwards towards Trimingham. The way-marked route now continues along the road, (the signs for the original route eastwards along footpaths towards the route I followed yesterday have now been removed, and the track is currently quite overgrown, although passable), however, I choose to take the footpath as marked on my map. I then followed the newly marked route northwards along the road towards Trimingham Church.

Trimingham Church is another that still has its medieval rood screen and it is in excellent condition (as is the church). A craft fair was in progress when I entered and both I and my dog Flynn were invited in and given a very warm welcome (I would normally never take him into a church). A lovely church, lovely people, and a memorable and worthwhile visit.

Retracing my steps briefly, I then picked up the footpath across the fields and on to the Norfolk Coast Path where my car was parked. This section of the walk completed on 20th June 2015 in good walking conditions with Flynn.

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Section 5. Gimingham to Mundesley
Starting at Gimingham Church, where roadside parking is probably less intrusive than elsewhere in the village, it is a very pleasant 2 mile walk to Mundesley Church across fields and then a path that runs alongside the golf course. A quiet minor leads down left directly to Mundesley Church on the cliff top and, a little further down on the right (south east) towards the village centre, an excellent, dog friendly café beside the hotel. Purists may prefer to stick to the official route and go straight on to the village centre before turning left to join the Norfolk Coast Path and follow it down to the aforementioned café (the more interesting route) and to then visit the church. Whichever route you take the church is well worth a visit. As I was returning to my start point, I was able to take one option on the way out and the other on the way back. The map below shows the official route.
Walked 01.02.2018 4.25 miles/6.75 kms +/- 85m (round trip)


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Section 6. Mundesley, Bacton Green and Paston
This section I completed as a (more or less) circular walk, going out along the beach and walking back along the best part of the cliff-top path on my return. According to the OS map the section between Mundesley (pronounced locally as "Munsley") and Bacton also coincides with the Norfolk Coast Path (part of the England Coast Path). The map clearly indicates that the Coast Path takes the beach, but it is possible to walk up the ramp (when going south) by the Life Boat station and walk along the cliff top until the Bacton Gas Distribution Station is reached (this may well be advisable at times of high tides and bad weather. Access is not allowed along the cliff top here, however there are no problems with walking along the beach, although the cliffs are unstable and at least two sections have come down very recently (giving the base of the cliffs a wide berth might be a good idea). Notices clearly indicate a walkers route/diversion around the site of the gas terminal (see below). If you don't like it, you can discuss it with the nice MOD policemen (good luck with that!) For what it's worth the detour is ok although I preferred the beach. Just beyond the terminal the Coast Path returns to the beach anyway, and the Paston Way heads inland towards Bacton Church across the fields. The church is well worthwhile and was open when I visited.

The route is then clearly signed to Paston Church 1.25 miles (2 kms) away. Also open, this church is again very much worth a short visit.

Leaving the church Paston way goes left at the minor crossroads towards Knapton (waymarked, but not shown on my map) whilst my circular route turns right down the lane. Where the lane bends sharply left a footpath goes off ahead of you. It soon divides, the right fork (clearly shown as a right of way on the 1:25000 map) takes you to the cliff top near the gas terminal, the left fork is a much used, permissive, footpath and the one that I took.

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Section 7. Paston to Knapton, Edingthorpe, Pigney's Wood and North Walsham
Leaving Paston Church the signs indicate that you follow the road. This can be busy. In fact if you enter the churchyard and take the lych gate on the right, there is a track that takes you between Paston Old Barn (well worth a closer look in its own right) and Paston Hall bringing you out on the quiet lane to Knapton. Much better, especially if you have dogs (I did!)

The map (and distances quoted) relate to the section between Pigneys Wood and Paston, completed as a circular walk from the free car park north east of Pigney's Wood.

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The above route is just over 13.0 kms/ 8 miles in length and is +/- 110m (out and back to Paston is a further 3 kms/2 miles.

The circular walk (which I had done previously) around Norfolk Wildlife Trust's reserve, Pigney's Wood (which can be accessed from the Paston Way from the old railway line shortly before the route reaches the North Walsham and Dilham Canal) is good and the red trail connects with the NW&D Canal. Some repairs were due late December 2017/ early 2018 and diversion signs are in place. These signs are currently being ignored by locals and the path is quite passable to any average hill walker anyway. (I had no problem, and I had a total hip replacement just a few weeks ago). This is a pleasant section and one to savour before roads and pavements have to be followed to North Walsham. Ample refreshment possibilities here, but accommodation should be booked in advance. The work still hadn't been completed by the end of March 2018.

I completed the section from North Walsham to Pigney's Wood during "down time" whilst doing a NorLSAR promotional/collection event in the town with Flynn in December 2017, and completed the final outstanding short section of the route above on 15th September 2018.
jonathan - norfolk
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