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I was heading in to this walk with the least preparation of any of the long distance walks I've done over the last few years. For the last 2 years I've worked nights (8pm - 8am) and I think that this is now catching up with my body and I seem to need at least one "zombie" day after the 3 nights to recover and get used to switching back to "normal" life. Of course the fact I'm only a few months shy of 60 could also be a factor
Anyway, to the walk.
Skipton is a lovely town and a great place to start. As usual for me, it's boiling (2017 Offa's Dyke and Glyndwr Way - warmest June in Wales since 1976, 2018 Cotswold Way - warmest May bank holiday on record) though not as hot as some of my previous walks.
Day 1Skipton - Grassington
Mileage - 17.4 miles
Ascent - 657m
Moving Time - 06:13
Stopped Time - 01:23
Moving Ave - 2.8mph
Overall Ave - 2.3mphA nice easy start with a gradual climb that took me up,on to Halton Edge with good views across to Lower Barden reservoir and my route ahead to Barden Bridge.
After crossing the bridge the path followed the bank of the River Wharfe as far as Burnsall Bridge. A quick juice stop was followed by a steep climb through a field, over Skuff Rd and on through more fields of sheep. The last village before the finish in Grassington was Hebdon and I entered Grassington on High Lane.
- Lower Barden Reservoir from Halton Edge
- Barden Tower
- Barden Bridge over River Wharfe
- The first of many barns but the only one with blue sheep
Day 2Grassington - Cray
Mileage - 14.1 miles
Ascent - 665m
Moving Time - 05:11
Stopped Time - 00:53
Moving Ave - 2.7mph
Overall Ave - 2.3mphAnother hot day with no breeze to be had (exact same as yesterday). Another day where the climbs are harder than they should be and when you reach the top, the anticipated breeze just isn't there.
The day started with a gradual climb through numerous fields of sheep before arriving at the remote Bare House. Stunning looking location today but I bet it is pretty bleak looking in a mist and rain in the middle of winter. My route eventually came out on the Bycliffe Road which I left to join the Conistone Turf Road as it wound it's way up to Capplestone Gate top at 512m. From here the path dropped gradually down to Kettlewell then on to Starbotton where I crossed the River Wharfe and picked up the Dales Way as far as Buckden. All that was left was a climb (on a good track) on to Buckden Rake followed by a flat mile and a drop down to Cray at the end of the day.
Brilliant day's walking.
- Bare House
- Typical view today
- Useful information
- More barns
Day 3Cray - Hawes
Mileage - 18 miles
Ascent - 676m
Moving Time - 06:16
Stopped Time - 00:48
Moving Ave - 2.9mph
Overall Ave - 2.5mphI chose to walk up the quiet road to the start of the climb through Hell Gap. Another beautiful day but thankfully there is a breeze to keep me from boiling on the climbs.
The climb up Hell Gap was short and straight forward and there was then some really good walking across Stake Moss and Busk Moss before picking up Busk Lane down to the picturesque Carpley Green Farm with Addlebrough behind it.
After the farm there was a mile of tarmac (the road only goes as far as the farm so unsurprisingly no traffic) followed by more sheep fields before dropping down to Worton.
Having crossed the River Ure I then headed for Nappa Hall and Askrigg followed by a walk through the woods to Mill Gill Force.
At Litherskew I lost the path, back tracked twice - no idea! Just took the main track to Sedbusk with the knowledge I should have been in the fields off to my right.
Strangely it wasn't till I dropped down through the last field and on to the road near Haylands Bridge that I realised I had walked here before (when doing the Pennine Way in 2015).
Another really enjoyable day.
- Hell Gap ahead
- No way past
- Approaching Carpley Green with Addlebrough in the background
- Nappa Hall
- Helm
- Turns out the spelling is better than my photography!!
- River Ure at Hawes
Day 4Hawes - Kirkby Stephen
Mileage - 17.6 miles
Ascent - 775m
Moving Time - 06:12
Stopped Time - 00:52
Moving Ave - 2.8mph
Overall Ave - 2.5mph A cloudier start to the day today and the temperature has dropped significantly. The breeze has turned in to actual wind overnight - I'm happy.
Some more walking through fields of sheep early on before arriving at Appersett Viaduct (disused railway line). After taking a few photos of the viaduct I then followed the path through woods beside the River Ure before one further field took me back to the A684. A short walk along this road past Rigg House brought me to the start of the climb up onto The High Way. The climb up Cotter End does go on for a bit but the gradient is consistent and it's just a case of head down and go. Once through the gate near the top the gradient gets steeper but the track does a zig zag to make life easier. Once past the old limekiln the climbing is over and there follows 6 miles of brilliant walking. There is a high wall all the way along on the left which the path follows but off to the right on higher ground there is a grassy track which I took so that the wall did not limit the view.
Time to say goodbye to Wensleydale as I look over to the Dandrymire Viaduct and the Settle - Carlisle railway line running down the valley. Whilst walking along the path here I had the company of two bombers (the slow moving ones that you are convinced will just drop out of the sky if they don't speed up) followed 30 minutes later by the distinctive sound then sight of two Chinook helicopters. The sun was now out and it was another warm day.
After Hell Gill bridge I stopped at the water cut sculpture for a short break and to take in the views as a train headed down the valley. The hill track ended at The Thang and after crossing the road it was back to grass fields that were either empty or had sheep in them.
I had navigational "issues" at both Southwaite and Low House (where I went round the wrong side of the house to the road) before reaching Nateby and it was then a short flat walk to Frank's Bridge and in to Kirkby Stephen.
I didn't know it at the time but the best walking was now behind me. This was yet again a really enjoyable day.
- Approaching Appersett Viaduct
- Cotter End climb to reach The High Way
- Looking over towards Dandrymire Viaduct
- Ruined building on The High Way
- Water Cut Sculpture a mile on from Hell Gill Bridge
Day 5Kirkby Stephen - Appleby
Mileage - 16.5 miles
Ascent - 374m
Moving Time - 05:41
Stopped Time - 00:53
Moving Ave - 2.9mph
Overall Ave - 2.5mphIt's a grey cool start this morning as I walk through KB remembering not to follow the herd over Frank's Bridge and turn right towards Nine Standards Rigg (that's next month).
The path followed the River Eden for a short way before coming out on the A685. I chose to take Kirkbank Lane all the way to Winton rather than heading through the wet fields early in the morning. After Winton I did take to the fields as far as Belah Bridge where I was chased by some cows down to the stile next to the river Belah. They were just young inquisitive cows so wasn't too bothered.
At Belah Bridge I should have picked up a path on the far side of the bridge but there was a padlocked gate and no other access to the field (that I could see) so chose just to walk up the side of the main road to Church Brough where I stopped at the ice cream cafe next to the ruins of the castle. My double raspberry cone and cans of juice were consumed whilst wandering round the ruins (I had the place to myself).
There are now a lot of fields to go through and on lower ground it's cows rather than sheep that inhabit them. No issues anywhere with the cows but just a bit more thought involved (especially after last years experience in the Borders). Passed through Warcop and Little Ormside before following the River Eden in to Appleby.
A little bit of light rain around today, never enough for waterproofs but it made for fairly wet walking in some of the fields where the grass was longer.
- Brough Castle
- Path beyond Langrigg
Day 6
Appleby - Penrith
Mileage - 17.8 miles
Ascent - 325m
Moving Time - 05:26
Stopped Time - 00:40
Moving Ave - 3.3mph
Overall Ave - 2.9mph
The forecast for today was mainly dry but if you caught a shower it would be slow moving and torrential. I managed to avoid the showers all day but they were close and the sky was very threatening at various points.
I've had enough of fields and cows. There was a lot of rain overnight and the fields will be very wet whereas the roads have dried off and amazingly I managed to dry my boots off overnight so I decide to take minor roads for a lot of the day.
My route took me through Long Marton and Kirkby Thore before crossing the A66 (eventually) and the only stage of Lady Anne's Way that I followed today.
Walkling between a couple of houses once over the A66 I then walked through a field and over a disused railway line before walking though a field of cows to reach the River Eden. I followed the path as far as Ousenstand Bridge including one rough overgrown section which once through I realised I could have easily avoided had I read the updates from the official site which I had printed off and carried with me (but not read).
Once I crossed Ousenstand Bridge it was a 1 mile walk along the quiet road to a T junction where the sign said Penrith 8. I checked my Garmin and the road went to within half a mile of Penrith so the decision was taken, roads to the end.
I know most people don't like road walking, I actually don't mind it. The weather was decent and the scenery was good so I was quite happy. I think after walking a few days on good tracks and a lot of soft grass my feet were in good condition and with it being the last day I knew I wasn't causing myself any problems.
Penrith seems like a really nice town, I've no idea how many times I must have driven past it either on the M6 or the A66 so it was nice to finally see it.
- This guy rushed over the field to see me
- Ousenstand Bridge
- Penrith Finish - the flags seemed a bit over the top, it was only 102 miles
My overall thoughts on this walk are..............I'm not sure
The first four days were superb (from Skipton to Kirkby Stephen) and probably spoilt me so whilst the scenery in Cumbria on the last two days was still good it just didn't grab me in the same way as Yorkshire did (and always seems to). Sections of this route are either on or close to the Dales Way and I'm really tempted to look at this walk for next May.
Due to the amount of soft grass I walked on I was completely blister free although again I have a very sore big toe on my left foot and the nail is slowly turning black so will probably detach itself over the next few weeks.
It's 3 weeks till I start the Coast to Coast and my fitness is nowhere near the level I had in 2014 when I completed it in 10 days. My schedule this year is the exact same so I have a lot of work to do in a short period of time to try to be ready.