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My first encounter with Hadrian's Wall was in the summer of 2017. I only walked two sections of it then - from Bowness to Carlisle and from Lanercost to Walltown Crags - but I was really taken with it and was determined that I was going to come back and do it from start to finish someday. In the intervening two years I lost four and a half stone and got considerably fitter overall. I also got accepted into physician assistant school, which I will be starting next month. I figured, what better way to kick off my "Last Hurrah Before School Starts" walking holiday than with another attempt at Hadrian's Wall?
I purposely planned my days to be short, especially in the middle section which goes over the crags, to give myself the best possible chance of completing the walk. In retrospect I was overcautious, and I probably could have completed the walk pretty comfortably in 7 days rather than 9, but I'm posting this report anyway in case there's anyone else out there who is interested in Hadrian's Wall but is intimidated by the crags. (If you are, don't be!) Onward!
*****
Saturday 27 April 2019
Bowness-on-Solway to Carlisle: "And we're off!"
Distance: 15 miles
Start: 8:50am
Finish: 3:40pm
Weather: Mostly cloudy in the morning, some rain in the afternoon
Today's weather forecast was not promising, and didn't seem likely to improve overnight as I fell asleep to the sounds of driving rain and howling wind in my attic Airbnb room in Carlisle. But I've been planning this as my first walking day of the trip for months and didn't want to back out, so I grimly donned my waterproofs and headed into the town center as the bells of Carlisle Cathedral struck eight. I caught a taxi to Bowness-on-Solway, and the "walking" part of this walking holiday officially began.
A hazy sun stayed with me all along the minor roads and tarmac causeways leading to Burgh-by-Sands. The trail was largely as I remembered it, winding along country lanes and through the odd livestock pasture at an almost dead-flat gradient. I made it to Burgh-by-Sands in just about three hours, and stopped for an hour at St. Michael's Church for lunch, a cup of tea, and a wonderfully informative lecture about the history of the church from a volunteer there. Suitably refreshed and having just missed a passing rain shower, I set out again for the second half of the day.
The second half of this day (if you're traveling eastbound) is much more interesting than the first. I left hard tarmac roads behind in favor of soft grassy pastures. I was interested to see that the stretch where I got stuck in the mud for several minutes the last time I came this way is now "paved" with concrete slabs - other folks must've had the same problem! As I drew nearer to the River Eden, the skies to my north and east got progressively darker. I could see that it was properly bucketing down rain on the Scottish side of the border, and I just continued to hope that the wind would stay to my back and drive the clouds away from me. But on the outskirts of Carlisle my luck ran out and it rained and sleeted heavily - but only for about 10 minutes. I was about 20-30 minutes' walk from my accommodation when I heard the first thunderclap. I'm carrying aluminum trekking poles...time to go! I probably walked the final mile of the day faster than any of the others!
15 miles in just under six hours of walking time. Today was definitely a success and I feel good.
Song of the day: "Polaroids" by Shawn Colvin
*****
Sunday 28 April 2019
A planned rest day in Carlisle today, as that first 15-mile day completely wiped me out when I did it two years ago and I figured a judicious recovery day built into the schedule wouldn't go amiss. This morning I walked the section of Hadrian's Wall that goes through Bitts Park, as far as Eden Bridge, so that I won't have to faff around tomorrow trying to find the ~*exact*~ spot where I left off yesterday. I went to Evensong at Carlisle Cathedral this afternoon, and now I'm about to repack my rucksack. I feel really, really good about how yesterday went, but I know that walking 14 miles WITH the rucksack tomorrow will be the real test.
*****
Monday 29 April 2019
Carlisle to Banks: "Getting lost in Rickerby Park"
Distance: 14 miles
Start: 6:35am
Finish: 2:35pm
Weather: Sunny and mild
I had a restless night last night. I knew I was missing a highly-anticipated
Game of Thrones episode, and last night was also my first rain-free night of the trip, so I had no white noise to lull me to sleep. So I was up before 6am and back on the trail not long after.
The early morning was very tranquil and I thoroughly enjoyed the walk out of Carlisle along the River Eden - until I got to Rickerby Park. I crossed the bridge over the river and was confronted with a three-way fork in the path. A gentleman out walking his dog pointed me down the middle, paved, obvious one, but I saw a waymarker with the white acorn blaze of the English National Trails over by the left one and decided to follow it. I was confident in my choice at first, particularly when I saw two more waymarkers not long after. But eventually I realized I was walking downstream when I should have been walking upstream. I turned around and made my way back to the fork, but did I take the center path? No, I took the right-hand path. It did eventually take me where I wanted to go, but as I walked along it, I saw a middle-aged couple go down the center path and get to the far end of the park and the next Hadrian's Wall waymaker considerably sooner than I did. Lesson learned: when a local gives you navigation advice, they usually know what they're talking about. (Side note: I suspect the waymarkers that led me astray were for the Cumbria Way.)
I was annoyed with myself for adding unnecessary distance onto an already-long day, but I did my best to just compartmentalize it and enjoy myself. Because there was SO MUCH to enjoy today! The sun was out, and the scenery was nice, and it just got nicer as the day went on. There was a lot of pasture-walking today, but I find that I don't mind it when the weather is nice and I've got a clear line to follow. There was some unexpected tarmac-pounding around the village of Dovecote where a field is temporarily closed to walkers, but it was enlivened when I passed a car parked at the side of the road, the scent of marijuana rolling off it in waves.
Tired and blistered after a long day with a full rucksack, I heaved myself up the hill north of Lanercost, bypassed the honesty hut at Haytongate (having already availed myself of two earlier ones), and shambled into Banks. There are three other Hadrian's Wall walkers staying at my B&B tonight, and the party bus to the pub departs at 7pm!
Song of the day - "A Case of You" by Joni Mitchell
*****
Tuesday 30 April 2019
Banks to Greenhead - "Wide Open Spaces"
Distance: 6 miles
Start: 9:20am
Finish: 12:55pm
Weather: Sunny and warm
I got a later start this morning since I knew I didn't have far to go. The sun was out again, but unlike yesterday when there was an easterly breeze blowing in my face for much of the day, the air was very still today. Which means it got very warm, very quickly. I had to take a quick break at Birdoswald to de-layer and drink some water. We're getting to the truly picturesque part of Hadrian's Wall now. It was a clear enough day today that leaving Birdoswald, I could see the crags in the distance - what's in store for me over the next few days!
I crossed Willowford Bridge and walked along an intact section of the wall for a while, with a wire fence running alongside. A ewe and her lamb had somehow gotten onto the path ahead of me between the wall and the fence, and a gentleman and his dog were coming the other way, so there was a tense moment when I wondered what they would do. Luckily the sheep found a low part of the wall for herself and the lamb to jump over and all was well.
I stopped in Gilsland for an ice cream and then pressed on toward Greenhead. After Gilsland is when the miles start to feel very long. Everyone has to slow their pace because there are many gates and ladder stiles to cross. There starts to be more ascent and descent, as the path is now on approach to the crags. In short, this is where the hard work begins. But it's where the even greater beauty begins, too.
There was a moment this morning when I took a pause, looked around me at the open countryside of Cumbria, and realized there was nowhere on Earth I would have rather been at that moment.
Song of the day: "Get Busy" by Sean Paul
*****
Wednesday 1 May 2019
Greenhead to Steel Rigg: "If your nerve deny you, go above your nerve."
Distance: 7 miles
Start: 8:15am
Finish: 1:05pm
Weather: Cloudy, cool, and damp
I was simultaneously nervous and excited for this day. This is the day that defeated me last time, so it was time to find out of I could do it.
I took the correct turn at Thirlwall Castle (having taken a wrong turn here two years ago) and slogged up the hill to Walltown. Then it was up and onto Walltown Crags. Walltown Crags are a bit of a "Choose Your Own Adventure" zone. The waymarkers and visible path both peter out and you're left to find your own line across. But really, as long as you keep the wall/fence/crag edge on one side, you can't go too far wrong. I got to the spot where I turned around last time and kept going. Victory.
After Walltown Crags, the path goes over open farmland for a bit until Cawfields Quarry. Then it's on to Winshields Crags. In a way, Winshields is easier than Walltown because there's a visible path over most of it. In other ways it's harder, because the climbs are steeper. I'm grateful to be doing this walk eastbound, because I did some climbs today that would have been difficult to descend.
Near the end of the day the fine mist that had been falling for most of the morning cleared, and I took the opportunity to lounge against the wall for a bit. A walker doing the Pennine Way (which runs concurrently with Hadrian's Wall for nine miles, from Greenhead to just before Housesteads) caught up with me and we talked about the Romans, the countryside, and long walks in general. He continued on his way, and in good time I heaved myself up and continued on to Steel Rigg. I have officially conquered the day that conquered me, and it feels good!
Song of the day: "Diamonds on the Soles of Her Shoes" by Paul Simon
*****
Thursday 2 May 2019
Steel Rigg to Carraw: "It's a bit precipitous!"
Distance: 8 miles
Start: 8:35am
Finish: 1:35pm
Weather: Mostly cloudy and moderately windy
My epic hamburger dinner at the Twice Brewed Inn last night was disrupted by an "I'd like to speak to the manager"-type guest. I ate breakfast early to avoid encountering him again and was back up on the path by half past eight.
My spirits were good at first. The views of Reel Crags were literally breathtaking and the weather, though cloudy, was holding. But I quickly discovered that Reel Crags contain the steepest climbs and drops of the entire trail. Looking at the map, I had expected to reach Sycamore Gap pretty much immediately after leaving Steel Rigg, but it felt like it took AGES to get there.
Sycamore Gap frankly gave me the creeps. The tree looks like it doesn't belong there and shouldn't be there. The leaves are a different shade of green from any of the other trees or grass in the area. And the way it's framed by two steep cliffs just gives it an otherworldly, vaguely malevolent aura. I could also hear voices on the wind - probably just the young couple walking their dog who had passed me earlier...still, mindful that Beltane had only just passed, I thought it prudent to hurry on my way, thinking "Nope, I've read this book series."
Except I couldn't exactly "hurry." The steep crags made for very slow going. I eventually reached Housesteads and stopped briefly for a snack, then continued up onto Sewingshields Crags. I just couldn't seem to get any momentum going today and my slow pace continued. And the vaguely unsettled feeling that had taken hold at Sycamore Gap was compounded by the fact that I didn't see a soul between Housesteads and Sewingshields Wood.
At the end of Sewingshields Wood, things finally began to look up. I left the crags behind and the terrain became mercifully level. I celebrated by eating my lunch next to Milecastle 34. Four Americans (two couples) came walking westbound and we had a bit of a natter. Body re-energized and spirits bolstered, I continued eastward. I had been high above the B6318 road for most of the day, but the final stretch into Carraw shadowed the road behind a stone fence.
I've been having the time of my life on Hadrian's Wall up until today, and I can't exactly put my finger on why my spirits were lower today. I think I'm slightly homesick, and I'm also realizing that I was too conservative with my daily miles when planning this walk, which has led to a bit of boredom. Lesson: underestimating your abilities can have consequences, just as overestimating them can.
Song of the day: "Arrietty's Song" by Cecile Corbel
*****
Friday 3 May 2019
Carraw to Portgate - "Don't get too self-congratulatory yet!"
Distance: 10 miles
Start: 9:00am
Finish: 2:30pm
Weather: Variably cloudy
I slept like the dead at my B&B last night and was back walking at 9 this morning. Today the trail mostly followed the B6318 across pastureland and moorland. The area right around Chollerford was a trial, because the trail goes onto tarmac for a good long while there, as well as descending into the town and then re-ascending out of it. There was much grumbling as I toiled uphill.
But other than that, today's walking suited me well. I've found that I'm happiest when scooting along level, open moorland, with a big sky above me and views all around. I crossed the River Tyne today and passed a few more intact portions of the wall, but I suspect those are going to get fewer and farther between as I approach Newcastle.
I passed a couple of large groups walking westbound near Chollerford, but didn't encounter another eastbound walker all day.
Song of the day: "Domine Jesu" from
Requiem by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart
*****
Saturday 4 May 2019
Portgate to Heddon-on-the-Wall: "Freeze/Thaw Cycles"
Distance: 10 miles
Start: 10:00am
Finish: 3:30pm
Weather: Partly cloudy, windy, and cold
If I ever do Hadrian's Wall again, I will NOT be staying in Corbridge. The OS map in the Cicerone guidebook makes it look quite close to Portgate, but it is in fact a hair-raising two-and-a-half mile walk away along the A68. Never again. I sat at a picnic table at the Errington Arms cafe to gather my frayed nerves and give my left shoulder a brief respite, since it's begun to protest a bit, particularly when going uphill. Then I began walking again.
Much like yesterday, the trail ran parallel to the B6318 for most of the day. Unlike yesterday, the path was actually below road-level for long stretches. Cars were passing at my eye-level. I suspect the trail is actually in the Roman vallum for some stretches here. Blue sky was visible all day and the sun came out periodically, but a vicious northerly wind blew for most of the day and I was COLD. I took a leisurely 75-minute break at the Robin Hood Inn to eat lunch and warm up.
The wind continued to howl as I crossed Whittledene Reservoir and passed through Harlow Hill. Once in a while the wind would drop, the sun would come out, and it would actually get warm for a few minutes...but then the wind would inevitably whip up again. And so the freeze/thaw cycles continued all the way to Heddon-on-the-Wall.
I must be near Newcastle Airport, because I spent the afternoon watching airplanes on approach above me.
Song of the day: "Cloudbusting" by Kate Bush
*****
Sunday 5 May 2019
Heddon-on-the-Wall to Newcastle: "My kingdom for a boat!"
Distance: 10 miles
Start: 8:45am
Finish: 1:00pm
Weather: Overcast, but warmer than yesterday
It was downhill all the way to the Tyne valley floor first thing this morning. A very short stretch through the woods near a golf course marked the end of any soft conditions underfoot: it was pavement-pounding the rest of the way. I stopped briefly in Newburn to eat a muffin and admire the view of the River Tyne. Several people were out rowing. I thought how nice it would be to commandeer a boat and just let the current carry me the rest of the way Wallsend...
I resumed walking, through Newcastle's western suburbs and to the quayside, where I called it a day. Just the last few miles to Wallsend tomorrow!
Song of the day: "One night as I lay on my bed" - English traditional
*****
Monday 6 May 2019
Newcastle to Wallsend: "Coda"
Distance: 4 miles
Start: 6:15am
Finish: 8:00am
Weather: Drizzle turning to rain
I was woken up at 4:30 this morning by a stag party returning to the hostel. After about 45 minutes I gave up all hope of getting back to sleep and got up. I faffed around in the lounge for a bit and then headed for the quayside, finding where I left off yesterday without any difficulty.
Newcastle Quayside at dawn on a bank holiday weekend is a grim place indeed. I understand the reasoning behind doing this walk westbound now. While there are a couple of attractive stretches running alongside the Tyne, these last few miles mostly go through unattractive industrial estates before finishing right behind the museum at Segedunum. It's honestly a bit of a letdown. Passing through the (in my opinion) much more attractive city of Carlisle before finishing in Bowness would make for a better ending. Furthermore, the museum at Segedunum wasn't even open yet when I got there, so my arrival at the finish was solitary and unheralded.
I took the metro back to Newcastle and got some celebratory coffee and food. I also took the opportunity to dry out and warm up, since I foolishly did these last few miles in my jeans and they got soaked in the rain. Then back to my hostel for a nap. The stag party were thankfully gone, and the only noise I had to contend with was the housekeeping staff yelling at each other in Somali. After my nap, I took the metro back out to Segedunum, determined to have my "Woo!" moment with the museum staff. That accomplished, I had a wander around before heading back to Newcastle a final time.
Hadrian's Wall is a lot of fun and I enjoyed it immensely, but if I ever do it again I will do it westbound and in fewer days. It's also been an amazing demonstration of what my new body is capable of!
Song of the day: "Mercy Street" by Peter Gabriel
