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Camino de Santiago France: Logrono - Fromista

Camino de Santiago France: Logrono - Fromista


Postby jonathan - norfolk » Tue Jun 25, 2019 10:50 am

Date walked: 27/05/2019

Time taken: 8 days

Distance: 200 km

Ascent: 2200m

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Four years ago, the two of us walked from St Jean Pied de Port in France to Logrono, Spain (c.165 kms) before John (my brother-in-law) had to return home, whilst I continued on to Santiago and Finisterre. This year John was able to resume his Camino and the plan was to see how much more we could complete from Logrono in the time that we had available. Ultimately we hope to complete the entire Camino from St. Jean together, but we've now done about 365 kms, so we've now completed about half of it. These notes may useful to anyone else planning to either this complete section, or who may, perhaps be starting their Camino from Burgos.

We flew to Bilbao and then caught coaches to Logrono, arriving with sufficient time to make a start on the day that we arrived. The stages that we completed were as follows:

2019.05.17 Logrono – Navarette
2019.05.18 Navarette/Ventosa - Ciruena
2019.05.19 Ciruena – Belorado
2019.05.20 Belorado - St Juan de Ortega
2019.05.21 Castanares – Burgos
2019.05.22 Burgos – Hontanas
2019.05.23 Itero and Castrojeriz
2019.05.24 Itero - Boadilla - Fromista

The distance that we were able to cover was limited by the difficulties in getting public transport back to Bilbao for a Sunday flight and, in the event we lost a day by having to travel back to Bilbao on the Saturday. It also cost Eu 80 for a room for one night in Bilbao. What we hadn't realised at the time of booking was that Bilbao is on the Camino del Norte (indeed we had walked a short section of it whilst exploring Bilbao earlier in the day). Both of us being in possession of a Pilgrims credentiel we could have used an albergue and saved ourselves about Eu 60! It was only when we visited Bilbao Cathedral (they wouldn't charge us as pilgrims) and they stamped my credentiel with a cello that we realised!

The section of the Camino de Santiago France that we walked during the week goes over some high ground, much of it either side of Burgos is between 750 < 1000m. The Meseta, in particular, can be foul in bad weather and is extremely hard work in the wet as the clay sticks to everything! In the heat, in can be 30 C in the shade (and there isn't any!) I paid a lot of attention to the weather forecast. The first time I walked this section I had the cold and wet, the second time the extreme heat! In good weather the walk is excellent.

One other point that's worth a mention. The walk to Burgos taken by most is dire, alongside busy roads. It doesn't have to be. From Atapuerca look out for the Crux de Matagrande and the fork right along an optional route. It's badly signed but in good visibility easily worked out with a bit of common sense (a compass helps!) but you shouldn't go far wrong. The option brings you out just beyond Orbaneja, which you can't see until you have walked beyond it). You then go over the AP-1, go left around and behind the new development (don't try to cut through it) . Ignore the obvious way-marking which takes you along busy roads via Villafria. The route behind the new housing development quickly becomes very quiet and peaceful and is then well signed to Castanares, At Castanares, when you reach the N-120 either go straight over it (or visit the café just down on the right, then either retrace your step from the café or just pick up the path that goes behind it, turn left, and then right). At this point both "straight over" and "visit the café" routes meet. There are signs for Burgos which take you over a bridge. Follow the path to the right (keeping the river on your right) all the way into Burgos. You can enter Burgos by taking the bridge into the city by the statue of El Cid, but continuing straight on and entering the city by the next bridge is far better in my opinion. Marginally further, but so much better than walking for miles alongside the N-1 or N-120 inhaling diesel fumes. You can also feel smug when other perigrinos tell you how awful the walk into Burgos was, whilst you've had an excellent day walking through the countryside. You do still have to walk around Burgos airport to the south, but it's way better than taking the route to its north.

E_4217 Logrono cmp..jpg
Setting out from Logrono

E_4265  Ventosa cmp.jpg
The route near Ventosa

E_4321 Belorado Church and Alberge of Santa Maria C.14th cmp.jpg
Belarado Church and albergue

IMG_4605 Burgos cmp.jpg
Burgos: Puente S. Maria and the approach to the cathedral.
jonathan - norfolk
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Re: Camino de Santiago France: Logrono - Fromista

Postby kazuhart » Wed Jun 26, 2019 8:17 am

Ow thanks for this report, it brings back memories of when I did this walk a couple of years ago. I have to admit I took the bus between Burgos and Leon because the thought of walking the messata in that heat was unbearable and I wouldn't have enjoyed the walk. I walked the rest of way though and really enjoyed the section between astorga and sarria, especially going into Galicia.
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kazuhart
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Re: Camino de Santiago France: Logrono - Fromista

Postby jonathan - norfolk » Mon Sep 30, 2019 7:10 pm

The next section, to Leon and Astorga was, for me, one of the highlights of my first Camino. Excellent! I'm really looking forward to returning and doing that section again, hopefully early next year.
I doubt that the Maseta is a pleasant highlight for many, perhaps in spring in good weather? I'm unlikely to find out first hand, walking it twice is more than enough.
Buen Camino.
jonathan - norfolk
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Posts: 283
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Grahams:9   Donalds:11
Hewitts:233
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Joined: Aug 3, 2013

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