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I had put in a fair number of Munro's over last few years and was slowly becoming more aware that my number was nudging well upwards of the 200 mark. I'd always said doing them all was never an aim for me, nor was it, being very aware of my own limitations, especially in regard to handling exposure and my general fitness in old age
- Heading off and obviously taken by the lovely views of Eas Mhor. Alas, my eyes were more distracted by the even more obvious snow around the summit of Sgùrr na Banachdich.
Seeing the number grow, it was becoming more definite, I would need to decide one way or, other, where to take this damn hobby and that's deal with the scary airy ones, or find other hills. Having turned 60, it was now or, never as they say, so with lockdown nearing relaxation I just went for it, booked two days at Sligachan, with a view to hiring a guide and giving the toughest of the Cuillin a try. If I froze and had to bail out, no probs, at least I'd know that was that!
- A view back over Loch Brittle, as another snow squall approaches.
Alas, a serious family problem arose which put the trip in jeopardy, but for once, good luck came our way and things turned out alright. Thanks, rusty horseshoe! (Long story, but probably not as long as this one
) After the relief of that, I was then able to get plans underway with a couple of weeks to spare, though I was now afraid I'd be too late to get a guide. In actual fact, I received several positive responses, but opted for Matt Pavitt, of Rocks and Trails, on good recommendation. (It did indeed turn out to be a great recommendation, though as I suggested to more than a few folk, I bet most nervous amateurs like me would say their guide is great, if and when they make it down safely
)
- Heading up Sgurr Dearg. Another party ahead.
I could hardly believe it, when the forecasts began to show horrendous weather for my trip, snow, high winds, rain, sleet, freezing temps, the whole shebang!
Each day I scanned the forecast apps, looking for some sign of improvement, clutching at straws! As accomm was booked and non refundable, I was going and that was that. The guide re-assured me weather might not be so bad and we arranged to meet next morning, half eight at Glen Brittle. I did not sleep well that night
- Matt, Rocks and Trails, leads the way. The In Pinn now becomes real =D
Met Matt, as planned. Quick check of gear and rucksack to make sure I wasn't carrying the kitchen sink, as he put it
(Normally, I do!) Before I could back out, we were on our way, Damn!
Matt, allowed me to indulge in much nervous, idle chatter as we made what seemed like quite good progress, on our way up Sgurr Dearg. The weather wasn't quite as windy as forecast, but still pretty breezy and wintery squalls drifting in from the west. Time to get the helmet on and then Matt explained some of his requirements for the day, giving advice and instruction in firm manner, but always calm and re-assuring, assessing me over some minor scrambles along the way.
- Love this one looking down the ascent and over Loch Brittle.
- Another classic view. Mhic Choinnich, Alasdair, Coire Lagan and The Great Stone Chute.
- A not so classical view :)
- And there it is. A blast of winter coming in just at the wrong time :)
At last, or should that be, alas, the In Pinn came into view. It seemed a long way off at first, but as Matt, said, isn't far off. There were a few more tricky spots to get there, but part of the build up, I think
We caught up with a couple of groups, just as a squall of sleet/hail/snow came in. Nothing bad .... anywhere else, but the In Pinn
Matt, told me to get my harness and more layers on. I didn't notice at the time, but I think he gave other guide a bit of a nod, a wink, then escorted me gingerly down to the foot of the Pinn before those still tying their laces, to where another victim was setting off.
- Matt, the Mountain Guide, gets ready for the job.
A bit more of pep talking and explanation of what I had to do, then Matt, was off
Tip: If like me, you start having second thoughts now, you're too late
And just to help, there was still a coat of rime on the rock to boost my confidence. Please come back, Matt
It seemed to take ages till I got the order to climb. By this time my hands were now pretty cold, in my damp gloves. I should have changed them, but my rucksack was now up on the ridge. Damn!
- At the base of the climb. Matt, just in picture. What can possibly go wrong? :)
Climb!
Actually, the first bit wasn't too hard a climb as such, though I knew all my muscles, with perhaps the exception of one, were at 100% tension
I got to the belay point, recovered the sling and promptly lost the caribiner over the side. Ooops! I didn't bring any spares
The next bit was up to the crux. It seemed to go ok, but then I got stuck. I just couldn't find the move. What's the problem, Matt, called. Just use the hand holds and footholds, he said
I remember looking over the edge, into a darkish grey oblivion. Another guide had arrived at my backside by now. I felt a strong pull on the rope and stretched limbs and joints as far as possible, finally getting some grip. Hallelujah!
- Me ..... and the dastardly guide, who soon near made me jump off =D
I started to make some progress again, then from behind me heard one helluva roar. Not climb, ready, yes, or anything like that, just an awful roar. I honestly thought someone was off! I was too feart to look back. I knew I couldn't do anything anyway. I'm not sure if the other guide was trying to get me to shift my arse, or just get his clients to climb, but he sure succeeded, either way. The scramble is not much more than one, or two feet wide, but gradually increases and gets easier near the top. Yes, the top! I had made it. Somehow, well, I know how, thanks to the mountain guide, pure and simple I had made it to the top! Well done Jimbo, all the same!
- Up he pops.
- Nearly there.
- And there we are. Matt, merely has to organise the gear. A dawdle?
- Next group of clients ready to descend. How that guide put the wind up me =D
With a lot of people behind, Matt said he would just lower me down, rather than abseil. I wasn't complaining, especially as I had virtually no abseil abseil experience. Thankfully, that went ok, with some further guidance from Matt, then before I knew it he had joined me back on the ridge. Wow, did I just do that? It didn't feel real, not then, anyway. No time for hanging around, as another squall was heading our way. Matt said the descent of the An Stac by-pass could be very slippy when wet. He kept the rope on me and guided me this way and that, till we were past the worst, down on the ridge at Bealach Coire Lagan.
- Matt, gathering the rope, after our descent.
- Descent via the An Stac bypass, as another flurry blows in.
Once again, Matt re-assured me Sgurr Mhic-Choinnich was do-able, if I wanted to go for it. To be honest, it near held as much anxiety for me as the In Pinn, but what could I say? I'm not very good at saying no, so on we went. I enjoyed some easier scrambling, but when the exposure hits, the game changes for me. Matt had me roped up again and on a very short lead. Concentrate and follow me closely, was the order. No. Closer! Closer, I willingly went, as we edged along ledges on the eastern side of the ridge
Not my cup of tea! Eventually, however things began to improve and we emerged at the summit cairn. Not a place for a big crowd, but a good viewpoint, if you are able to use it. I barely could move a muscle, so only managed a few pics.
- Readying for Mhic Choinich. Another wintery squall moves in, despite apparent bright appearances. A team advances ahead of us.
- Looking back to the In Pinn, Cuillin ridge and others heading our way.
- I just went up there and down there? :) In Pinn and An Stac bypass.
With another squad approaching from the Coire Lagan side of the ridge, we cleared out, finding a suitable layby, to allow them to move on to the summit. The descent back off the ridge didn't seem as hard or take that long, till we were back above the An Stac screes. I could now breathe again, the first time in about three hours. A new world record apparently
- Proof! I was there. The memorial stone on Mhic Choinnich.
- Lay by, to let another group by as we descend. Ridge round to Sgurr nan Gillean, beyond.
By chance we bumped into Matt's Rocks and Trails partner, Anna, with a couple of female clients, who had just done the Pinn. Much though I appreciated her congratulations, I knew and said, I could never have achieved it without a guide and I reckon I got a good one at that. "Guide" makes it seem like something simple, just leading the way, but believe me, these folk go to every degree to make you safe and enjoy the experience, while placing themselves at greater risk.
- Great view of Coire Lagan out to Canna. The worst is by, in my opinion.
- Group of climbers on An Stac. If that is your thing, batter at it =D
- Another view back to the Pinn and descent route down the scree.
- There's ma man, Matt, Rocks and Trails mountain guide and no' a bad chap, either. Coire Lagan.
- Was old baldie up there? :)
Descent of the scree into Coire Lagan, was much as expected, tricky enough, but not as bad as the Great Stone Chute. We took a bit of time out, to soak in one of the most magnificent corries in Skye, if not Scotland. Well worth a visit, even if not doing any climbing. Also, took a stop to enjoy the lovely falls at Eas Mor, then we were back at Glen Brittle Memorial hut. How Matt's ears must have been ringing with my inane chatter, (much like this report), but he bore it gracefully.
- View below Coire Lagan, up to Mhic Choinnich.
- Finally, well down below, back at a more serene looking Eas Mhor, with Sgùrr na Banachdich, beyond.
- Our ascent route now looks much better, now that I am back at the car :)
Thanks, Matt, see you tomorrow for Am Basteir, if the weather permits! (Weather was looking pretty awful from midday onwards!)
A wee bit of vid from a magical place -