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We needed a good day for this hill, so we waited, and when that day came we weren't disappointed. Even if it was for the drive alone it was worth it. What we did was a drive/hike, like some folk do bike/hikes.
Approaching Kishorn the loch was so still we stopped for a photo.
Loch Kishorn
Kishorn reflections from further round (Moira's pic)
It was such a long time since I'd been over the Bealach na Ba road I didn't remember how steep and bendy it was and I wrongly assumed that over the years it would have been straightened and moderated. But I don't think it has much. There was a sign saying it's not suitable for learner drivers or campervans but half way up we met a campervan stuck in an awkward place. The driver seemed unable to move backwards or forwards and we did have some sympathy for him as the side edge of the road had a one foot drop off... but had he not read the sign? Not the best person to meet and one who had to be negotiated carefully around as he wasn't for moving
Bealach na Ba (M's pic)
We left the car in the parking area at the highest point which was busy with bikers and wandered over to look at the tourists' view.
Cuillins from viewpoint (M's pic)
That done we walked the short distance back along the road and took a left turn up a stony track leading to a TV transmitter mast.
TV transmitter mast
We saw a number of folk only going as far as the mast, but by stopping there they missed a treat. The path continues east briefly, before fizzling out, at which point we followed the rim of the cliffs that drop down into Coire a Chaorachain.
Coire a Chaorachain
Across Skye to Eigg and Rum
Sgurr a' Chaorachain's undulating ridge ahead
With a high start point this hill delivers good views for very little effort
There's also enough up and down on the ridge to keep things interesting and we climbed to the top of everything just for the fun of it.
Cairn on wee top
We didn't see the path going off to the right from the cairn and instead took a steep path slightly to the left.
The direct route down is from the notch at the top
The more gradual route is easily seen from below and we took it on the return
View down to road in Coire na Ba
View down to Loch Kishorn
A path bypasses the top of the west summit to the left, but we went right up and took the bypass on the return. The rocky descent on the other side was fine, with a bit of careful foot placement needed at one point.
The west summit
Zoomed across the A' Chioch ridge to the Achnashellach hills beyond
Approaching the true summit
Sgurr a Chaorachain's summit carn
Loch Kishorn
Zoomed to Kishorn village
Over the sea to Skye
At the top we met a girl with a black lab
Seeing other walkers with their dogs makes me miss mine and this black lab was very like Keira. But the deal is Keira comes if I'm driving and today we were in Moira's car, something I was quite glad about when we met the campervan bloke stuck in the middle of that narrow road.
Back along the ridge to the west summit
The mast again
Looking back from rocky pavement
Ridge looking good in the afternoon sun
Clouded over in the west but islands still clear
We'd already decided to continue to Applecross, hopefully for coffee and cake, and take the longer Shieldaig road home, worth it for the scenery and lack of harepin bends for meeting stuck campervans.
Applecross
We reached Applecross to find it busier than anywhere else I'd seen since lockdown and managed to squeeze the car into the last remaining space in the car park. There was 'no room at the inn' as a cohort of bikers we'd seen earlier now occupied the outside tables. So we walked back along the road to a cafe serving takeaway hot drinks and home bakes, which suited us just fine.
The rest of the route round the coast was lovely and worth the extra distance. I remember back in the 1970s my cousin who was a volunteer fire fighter in Kyle saying they'd had a call out to a fire in Applecross but by the time they got there by the long route (it being winter) the house was almost burnt to the ground. The journey had taken 4 hours. And as a child the only way we ever went to Applecross from Kyle was by boat.
Skye across the Inner Sound
No more campervans it's true... but there was another hold-up on the road. Of a more relaxed kind this time - although when I got out to take a photo of long horned hairy bovines coming our way Moira (thinking of potential for her new car being scratched) said "Don't get them excited". But for all their looks the Highlander is a placid breed, unperturbed by passing tourists who would just have to wait. When all's said and done Bealach na Ba means the Pass of the Cattle and they've been here long before motor vehicles appeared and behave like they know it.
Highland traffic jam
Pass of the cattle
Heather at its August best
Beinn Alligin from a different angle
Fish farms on Loch Torridon
Torridon hills from Shieldaig road
Scenically stunning and altogether a most enjoyable day out.
