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So now for our final part of the Speyside Way - Kincraig to Newtonmore.
On 10th September we walked from Kincraig to the Uath Lochans as an out and back and had coffee and carrot cake once we returned to the start point at Kincraig post office, which doubles as a coffee shop. It was good to see this place open again and providing a thriving wee hub for the local community. We met Paul there and chatted about the difficulties for outdoor centres that had been closed since March and are unable to take group bookings even into 2021, and how damaging it is to mental health to have this facility withdrawn nationwide. Paul is based at the outdoor centre at Alltnacriche and the previous day they had received word from the Scottish government there would be no financial help available. (This may have changed now).
Kincraig coffee shop
We followed the WH directions and the SSW signs and were relieved not to find the multitude of chain gates we had to push through between Ballindalloch and Grantown. This was an altogether more civilised section with an excellent surface for cycling, not many gates and good views.
We crossed the bridge over the outflow of the Spey from Loch Insh.
Zoomed south on Loch Insh to what looks like the shape of Meall Chuaich
We nipped up the path to the church by the lochside. For churches with scenic locations this one must be up there.
Insh Church
About 30 years ago when our kids were young we were on holiday up north and came to this church as we were passing through. After the service and with a journey ahead I asked an old lady where the toilets were. She said "Oh dearie we have no toilets, you just go behind a gravestone." Even 30 years ago you will be relieved to hear we didn't!
Watersports centre
Shinty pitch and gate you turn left to go through
Maybe a project for someone?
One of the Uath lochans
As we turned back to retrace our steps to Kincraig we passed two lads who looked like they were attacking a tree with a branch. Realising how odd it must look they explained their drone was stuck high up a pine and they were trying to knock it down with a branch they found lying on the ground. We waited long enough to see they got it down, though don't know if it survived the fall.
On 8th October we were back on a brighter day than a month earlier, with the autumn colours developing nicely. This time we started at Inshriach.
Wide path through the pines of Inshriach
The detour up Farleitter Crag doesn't add much to the overall distance and is worth doing for the view over the lochans.
On the way up
Uath lochans
Feshie hills
Back on track
View west
Fly agaric mushroom often found in birch woods and said to be hallucinogenic
Monadhliadh hills ahead
Dog checking out the only waterlogged part we found on the route
I like this photo of Moira's
Dark clouds gathering
But blue sky here
River Tromie
Carved out rock from rush of many waters
We didn't go to the bird hide at the Insh Marshes Nature Reserve as it looked like rain so we didn't want to delay.
Insh marshes from bird hide (on a previous visit)
Ruthven barracks in a strange light
At this point the waterproofs went on as the dark sky opened and for the next half hour we walked in rain.
River Spey in the rain
When we reached Kingussie we thought about turning right to find shelter from the rain along with a coffee but decided to keep going and get the job done. Half way between Kingussie and Newtonmore we met a straggling crocodile of secondary school kids who were very taken with the dog. They said due to covid rules they couldn't do PE so went out for walks instead and sure enough two masked adults appeared, PE staff escorting their class on what Moira and I as ex teachers thought was a fairly soft option, compared to some of the complications the pandemic has thrown at education in 2020!
Autumn colours on Newtonmore main street
We headed straight for the Wild Flour cafe to celebrate our completion of the Speyside Way.
Camera lens fogged up in warmth of cafe... and we shared that piece of cake
We may come back to the Tomintoul loop another time but as far as following the Spey River from the sea to as far inland as the Way currently goes, we have done it!
A week later four of my grandsons and their parents spent a fabulous day canoeing on the Spey near Kincraig. So as a tribute to this beautiful river I'll finish on that day.